Ok, I have 3 questions.
What would be the easiest way to get around 300rwhp with out nitrous or FI?
Can you do it with just bolt-ons and a chip or do you need heads/cams?
Is it possible to do it for less money that a twin turbo?

I just want something that will keep up with a C5. I don't need to blow it out of the water or anything. Any input would be great.

 

the cheapest way to do that will be a turbo or SC...because i can see you getting 340-350 HP to the crank with NA...thats about it

 

that's pretty much impossible right now. the easiest way to get there would b a 75 shot. i'm just doin the bolton thing for now, and probly i'll end up doin a vortech. the only thing i'd lose would b my intake, but who would really care about that .

 

Headers, Intake, hi flow cats or no cats, low restriction muffler,
ported heads and lopey cams

Will put you over 300rwhp depending on how aggressive the cams are

With a really aggressive set of cams, and the rest of the mods I listed, you could see 320rwhp - 350 rwhp!

 

Pulleys, Flywheel, and exhaust as well.

 

Ive seen dyoes of guys with just an intake putting down about 252 rwhp, it wont be hard to pick up 60 hp with some basic boltons. Ive gfot faith that once i get my exhaust, headers, hi-flow cats, flywheel, and intake manifold ill be putting down about 300 rwhp...

 

probably not unless you run an ECU upgrade too.

 

I would have to say that 300 RWH is not that hard.. They are putting what 240ish out so that is 50 - 60ish HP that heeds to be made. With Headers, high flow cats out to a true duel exhaust with X pipe will get you about 25 - 30 HP Then pullys have seen about 7HP gains. Grounding kit gets you about 3 HP.. Flywheel will be about 4 HP.. 100% synthetic oil has been known for its 1 - 3 HP gains but who knows on that lil.. Intake will get you about 5 HP.. ECU that will give about 7HP and make the comp dumb so it will not retard itself. With all that done on a car say 240 RWH we are up to lets say 50 ish RWH @ as a average.. so that will be 290 RWH and you didnt even go to any internials like Cam, pistens or anything like that. A new cam and intake man. might get you 30 RWH so to me 300 is a nice N/A target but hey what do I know im no car mech.. If I am wrong please state in a reply so I can get my facts right.. Thanx guys

P.S with all that imagion TT or SC hehe

 

I'd say I agree with you, but I'd be a little more conservative. Let's itemize this **** like we're accountants.


Intake/Headers/Exhaust................ 25 whp
Pulleys........................................... 7 whp
Flywheel/Grounding/Oil?................ 5 whp
Crawford Plenum........................... 9 whp (Peak ofcourse)

Total............................................... 46 whp


So lets call it between 40 and 50 whp because, as everyone knows, gains are just not addative like this all the time. Either way, on the conservative end that would put you between 270 and 290 whp depending on your baseline. I figure 230-240 is what most people report. Once an ECU is available, that and a pair of conservative cams should put you right around 300+.

Then pop in some 11.5/1 pistons and upgraded rods if you're not satisfied and turn up the HP that way.

Obviously this is pretty expensive, but in the long run I don't think it'll necessarily be more expensive then a properly tuned turbo setup.

 

on the Z crank to wheel power loss is 15% of the total HP

287 HP and 242 to the wheels

a full exhaust/ intake / ECU will give you 50HP or PS

Pulleys 7 whp (if that)
Flywheel/Grounding/Oil.... 5 whp (w/e the guy on top said)

62HP + 287 = 349HP - 15% = 296.65RWHP

then you can do cams, 12:1 compression ratio pistons/new rods....port and polish will give you like 3whp...so you can get 300+RWHP but is it worth it??? why not just get a turbo set up??

 

Simple bolt-ons won't void the warranty like a turbo setup would, right? That could be an issue for many people.

 

Simple bolt-ons won't void the warranty like a turbo setup would, right? That could be an issue for many people.

Yeah if you take the bolt ons off every time you go to the dealer. I've heard of dealers that are cool with Bolt ons and some will tell you your tires uneven ware is due to your injen intake.

 

Actually with the flywheel and udps were looking at more like a 12% drive train loss so we see bigger gains with them the more power we put out. And at the typical 1lb of rotating mass =~2.7 hp a flywheel that weighs half the stock part would net closer to 15 hp. Or if you want to be conservative the jwt is 14 lbs oem is 29 so even at hp/lb your looking at some serious gains. And i forgot to add that you dont need an ecu to tune your engine. Just get an afc and dyno tune it.

 

I didn't know that flywheel gains were that substantial. That really doesn't make sense though. A flywheel that weight half stock would then, theoretically, give you more than 30 hp gain. I thought the gains from flywheel were more in the acceleration department by way of a faster revving engine. I'm no expert on flywheel technology though.

I agree that you can get an afc, but if you're going to drop so much cash doing an N/A tune, you may as well get a stand alone.

 

I was under the impression that a rough estimate was every lb makes a 2.7 hp gain. But i know thats a little optimistic so i roughly estimated that if we gain at least 1 hp for every pound off the flywheel oyull get about 15 hp, id even be happy with 10. Its all about the rotating mass and your drive train losses which if you can minimize then you get the most out of all that power your engine makes.

And thats true danny i didnt think of using a stand alone. A basic one only costs about a grand which is a little more than twice what an afc costs. I remember seeing that our afr is like 10 or 11 which is really rich for an na car so im guessing that some gains could be had there.

 

I dunno... That sounds like some pretty ideal (read: not very reproducable) conditions. I get mid ~230's rwhp with AEM CAI and Mobil-1 (otherwise stock 6-sp Touring).

That was with four back-to-back runs that were extremely consistent. The car had roughly 10k on it, so it was well broken-in, and I drove it there, so the engine was at normal operating temperature.

 

Okay I'm a bit confused I also have the dream of hitting 300whp with bolt-ons in my 03 manual, But when i went to the dyno earlier today i was very very disappointed. Heres a list of my mods and the results.
K&N Cai
Kinetix uppper plenum
Moderdyne 5/16 spacer
Moderdyne Mrev2 lower plenum
Megan radiador
Mishomoto racing thermostat
Cat Delete straight pipes
cat back exhaust.
UR 3 pulley set
osiros tune
I went to a shop with a "Dyno Dynamics" Dyno and my base line was only 220. After the osiros tune by up-rev i peaked at 233.9whp. Why so low someone please explain because the owner said he had done a lot of 350's and mine put out great numbers for bolts on he seemed impressed but i was not.

 

Once upon a time, ten years after that thread was last updated...

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/4...50z-revup.html

 

Try another dyno to compare numbers? How does the car feel, silly question but dyno numbers are just that numbers without a correct baseline before the mods. That dyno seems to read very low compared to the norm.

I would say completely stock you should of been around 230-240...then with those mods 260 area...

Again search some more and source out other z members in the area

EDIT


Lmao didn't even check the date lmao super Mario bump on this one

 

Just get a c5 then...