Yeah the cost benefit is not worth it id rather just go FI or a fully built N/A.

 

Ya, that will do it..

 

*sh*ts brick*

 

I know theres 300ish rwhp on N/A but seems like there should be more.

 

This is my set up with the BC stage 2's. Ever see anyone make power to 7400 rpms? FYI 03 motor..

 

Yeah we did to.

 

Any benefits for a raised rev limiter on a revup? Like, bump it up to 7500 or does it suffer the same like the 287 motors?

 

In most circumstances its pretty pointless revving past 6600rpm. I have also noticed (via my datalogs) that the ECU really likes to increase timing the higher you rev, especially when going past redline, so it really reduces your margin for error when doing this. However in your case since you have an 5AT, if you do the 1/4 a lot it will be very beneficial to have the limit increased to 7200rpm because it puts you further into the meat of the powerband (especially when shifting from 2nd to 3rd @ 7200rpm since 3rd gear on the 5AT is pretty tall).

I have been revving to 7200 rpm for the past 6 months (my valvetrain is upgraded though) and I have not noticed any problems yet (I don't do it often though). It really helps keep me in the powerband in the 1/4.

 

Yeah, shifting into the powerband was primarily my concern. I think an additional 200RPMs would actually do the car just right, striking a perfect compromise. I think redlining first, shifts me into 4800RPM (I'd need to double check that, though).

 

Yeah. It really helped in the 2nd to 3rd shift when I still had the 3.3FD. It also enables you to stay in 3rd at the end of the 1/4 helping to improve your time. Shifting @ 7200rpm in 1st is kinda pointless though. With my 3.9FD I find it best to take 3rd to 7200rpm instead of 2nd so I land in the meaty part of 4th gear.

 

+1

I think that the revup power will not drop as fast as the non revup. With my 3.9 FD I deffinetly will benefit of a 7200-7500 redline, it's that possible with the stock valve train in the revup?

 

I have a revup pump, on a fully balanced and blueprinted engine, and the car is NA...much different oil volume requirements vs an FI car, and don't use any sort of launch control. Mine was designed around revving that high in the short term, and sustaining high revs in extended run times. But that's what an engine build is about - it's not slapping some forged pistons and rods in and hoping for the best. It's defining the uses, and planning for all the inevitabilities.

 

While the power after 6300 or so on a stock non-revup falls off quickly, it's not so quick that shifting sooner will help the power under the curve. The torque drop off going to the next lower gear is pretty damn big. And just to clarify for those concerned by Julian's broken oil pump - that was from trying to launch a turbo'd car (500 whp+) at nearly 7k rpms. Quite a bit different than the OP's situation...

 

The stock revup behaves pretty much like the stock non revup in that regard... On my revup, power plateau's @ 6400 and begins to drop off quickly after @ 6600ish. Gotta built it, balance it, and blueprint it if ya wanna go higher~ :-)

And as Adam said, cams & supporting valve train are also key to taking advantage of the extra rpm's.

If I may add, head work (porting, polishing, recontouring, etc) definitely wouldn't hurt either...

But building a long block is pretty expensive when you factor everything involved... I'm closing on my home-refinance soon, and then will be off getting my motor built~ Lol! :-)

 

Cool thread. I love these kind of discussions! :-)

But wasn't harmonic vibrations / frequencies also an issue with your oil pump grenading? Your crank had several hairline fractures to support that theory if I recall correctly?

 

Let's post some stock/NA dynos of both motors. I'd look for a few but I'm running off to class.

 

all of us with built NA's (all of those that I've seen are 03-04 DE's) are making it that high and higher But seriously, a revup pump can easily cope with sustained high rpm use but it needs the support of the rest of the rotating assembly. There is no free lunch, and as you improve one area, you bring out the next weak link in the chain. Planning for all these inevitabilities is what reliability is all about. That's the point where minute gram balancing of the entire rotating assembly (not just pistons and rods and crank), and even looking into the introduction of a dry sump setup becomes more and more critical. When you're dealing with a cast housing, and a small diameter gear, there comes a certain point where the weakest link will always go first. Trying to drive all the accessories is also a big no no for all out drag use (power steering, a/c compressor). Like anything else, there are various levels of balancing that a bottom end can undergo, and different machine shops have different abilities based on the equipment they have and the skill of the person who operates it. This is stuff that can get really expensive, really quickly, but it's essential if you want to rev the car reliably without having to worry.

 

yeah, I've noticed I can't stay in 2nd long enough up at the dragon when I'm pushing hard. I could BARELY keep pace with one of the new S2000CR's being driven by a local. 7500 RPM redline would help a BOAT load but....thats alot of work lol. Guess I'll stick to hittin the curves in 3rd gear like a senior citizen

 

Adam...ever think of just an External Pump instead of a full Dry Sump setup?
Alot cheaper with most of the benefits of a Dry Sump. Still belt driven,
can adjust oil pressure easily and change volume with a quick pulley change.

 

interesting - any link where I can read up on it?