350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

so I installed a clutch master clutch on a buddy's car, everything went smooth and perfect in that regard. Didn;t touch the slave cylinder, didn;t crack the hydrolic line, didn't do anything other than unbolt the slave when the tranny was out... and upon re-install, the clutch pedal falls to the floor without resistance?????

We attempted to bleed the clutch, no real difference, even swapped slaves and attempted to bleed, spent 2 hrs straight just trying to bleed the clutch.. I have heard stories before that certain vehicle are a PITA to bleed and can take a long time, but this is absurd...

also, to make sure it wasn;t a clutch issue, with use of a pry bar, we can move the clutch fork and engage the clutch/ disengage while the tranny is in gear, freeign and locking the driveshaft respectively, to confirm that the clutch does work when the pressure plate is compressed.

Anyone have similar issues with bleeding the clutch, any master cylinder issues on clutches? symptoms, diagnostics?

any imput?

thanks

TODD

Barzten1

iTrader: (18)

No luck yet boss?

Barzten1

iTrader: (18)

Alex was thinking the master cylinder or the slave cylinder might have died on us.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

It should have pumped up. First I would open the bleeder on the slave and push in the clutch. Is there a good shot of fluid ?

Close it, open the bleeder again and put your finger over it, push down the pedal. Is there a shot ? Resistance ?

I gravity bleed...if in some cases the bleeder is not at the high spot---I jack the car until it is. Open the bleeder. There should be a constant drip. Tap the lines and slave with a wrench or whatever to knock air bubbles loose. Keep you fluid topped off. Close the bleeder and pump. There has to be something.


Needless to say, make sure the slave rod is moving. If so, Is it moving a full stroke? You should also be able to hear the clutch assy moving. If not, replace the slave----You disturbed it.

If that dosent do it replace the master

If I do an install on a car with more than 30,000 on it, I just replace hydraulics

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Iv done a dozen or more clutch upgrades on Zs, but 100s on other cars, so I just cant picture the exact setup...Id have to pull a diagram to refresh my memory

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

I just pulled it ---Standard setup ---Pull back the dust cover (rubber boot) on the slave. Is there seepage?

Pull off the Dust cover on the fork where it goes into the bell housing. With a small flashlite you should be able to look inside and see whats happening

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

appreciate the feedback...

i swapped the slave, havent touched the master cylinder yet... and to no avail
when i depress the pedal to the ground, a steady stream will come out (after pumping a good ten times to build pressure, then opening the bleeder)

I pulled the clutch fork boot when the first symptoms showed up. everything looked fine, i even pulled the slave out of the way, stuck a pry bar against the fork and was able to move the fork against the pressure plate and able to engage the clutch- testing this by having the tranny in first gear and was able to spin the driveshaft freely.

so, my next step should be to replace the master, just wondering how this had gone wrong in the process, i have pulled my motor 8 times , always simply moving the slave out of the way, and when reattaching when the motor is back in/ tranny in, everything works like normal...

any other ideas besides swapping the master?

Thanks
TODD

toy4two

redo the bleeding again, then do it again, and finally again. I've been in your situation in many cars over the years, only to replace the same parts, only to find out they didn't need to be replaced. If it worked prior to the work, they didn't just give up the ghost that exact moment, go redo the bleeding again and do it longer this time, an hour if you need to. It will come back up.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

man, i just feel like i'm not getting anywhere... i spent few hours on it last night, i'll give it some more time...

the weird thing, why would the pedal drop and this entire issue ever become any issue if I NEVER opened the hydrolic system???

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Some, many actually.... slaves, have a nylon cap on the end of the slave rod. Some times it is part of the "strap" that holds the rod in place for shipping. When the Slave is installed you either cut the two straps that attach to the "cap" or they just break when the slave is activated.

Bottom line: You end up with a cap on the end of the rod. That cap works as a natural non friction pivot point (so it is not metal to metal at the rod/fork)

I have had situations where that cap falls off and in doing so, you lose rod length...enough to cause non engagement (that 1/8 in. you lose is multiplied the closer you get to the Throw-out)

Two questions I asked
1. Is the rod moving ?
2. If you open the bleeder, do you get a gravity drip ?

1) If the rod appears to be making a full stroke, put something between the rod end and the fork contact point for experimentation..."lengthen" the rod

2) If the bleeder is not giving you a steady GRAVITY drip, then that means the Master is off center or bypassing...theres no fixing it, replace it

The Master Res. should just empty out if you open the bleeder. That means NO pedal actuation. Simple gravity. If it doesnt--you have a Master Prob....OR a Master rod/linkage problem that is causing an off center situation.

Rod length is critical whether it be Master or Slave


I have also heard of PIVOT ***** breaking on some of the Zs

Many of these things apply to Brakes also

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

the rod is moving, it moves the fork, just not very far...i did actually try putting a spacer between the rod and the fork, didnt make a big difference, didnt move the fork enough to disengage the clutch...
my question, if the slave is just dangling under the car (not bolted to the tranny with the pressure against the fork), when pushing the clutch pedal, wouldn;t i expect to feel resistance anyway?

i opened the slave and it bled, drip drip drip.. seemed pretty steady... i odered a slave and a master just in case, gonna play more tomorrow

-Thanks
TODD

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

If you did that, you would blow the piston out. NO resistence

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

right... realized that after i asked the question, and no, i didnt do that...

thx

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

what was the fix??