Variant of the "Clutch pedal springs back up halfway" problem
06-25-2008, 06:57 AM
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Variant of the "Clutch pedal springs back up halfway" problem
I've been searching old threads all morning about clutch pedal problems on this forum and others but I can't seem to find anyone with my exact situation. I have an 06 350Z (base - 6 spd manual) with 60,000 miles and up until this morning I've never had a problem with the car. The car is completely stock.
When I backed out of my driveway this morning and started the drive to work I noticed that the clutch pedal was only springing back about half of the distance that it usually does. All the other threads I've read talk about this happening once everything warms up, but this was happening right when I began my drive this morning. I have a 30 minute drive to work and it seemed like as I got closer and closer to work the clutch pedal seemed to be returning more and more outwards like it should. By the time I got to work the problem had went away some, but the return still isn't as it should be.
The shifting of gears is perfect, with no slipping, weird noises, or weird smells. I saw no leaking fluid in my garage floor when I backed out this morning, nor did I see any fluid leaking from my car when I got to work. I checked the clutch fluid when I got to work and the fluid level was perfectly fine.
I'm at a loss as to what this could be. The actual shifting of gears is perfect, but the pedal just isn't springing back the way it should. It's a far cry from the "my pedal is stuck on the floor" posts that I see so much of on the forum.
Anyone have any ideas?
When I backed out of my driveway this morning and started the drive to work I noticed that the clutch pedal was only springing back about half of the distance that it usually does. All the other threads I've read talk about this happening once everything warms up, but this was happening right when I began my drive this morning. I have a 30 minute drive to work and it seemed like as I got closer and closer to work the clutch pedal seemed to be returning more and more outwards like it should. By the time I got to work the problem had went away some, but the return still isn't as it should be.
The shifting of gears is perfect, with no slipping, weird noises, or weird smells. I saw no leaking fluid in my garage floor when I backed out this morning, nor did I see any fluid leaking from my car when I got to work. I checked the clutch fluid when I got to work and the fluid level was perfectly fine.
I'm at a loss as to what this could be. The actual shifting of gears is perfect, but the pedal just isn't springing back the way it should. It's a far cry from the "my pedal is stuck on the floor" posts that I see so much of on the forum.
Anyone have any ideas?
06-25-2008, 08:14 AM
#2
This is how my problem started. The first time I noticed it was when I got back from a week-long trip. The same thing happened that you described and it eventually fixed itself.
However, as a month went on the clutch started sinking to the floor during city driving (whenever it got hot).
The same fix that worked for everyone else- flushing/replacing with dot4 fluid and changing the rubber hose out to a braided insulated line- worked for me.
However, as a month went on the clutch started sinking to the floor during city driving (whenever it got hot).
The same fix that worked for everyone else- flushing/replacing with dot4 fluid and changing the rubber hose out to a braided insulated line- worked for me.
06-25-2008, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cheshirecat79
This is how my problem started. The first time I noticed it was when I got back from a week-long trip. The same thing happened that you described and it eventually fixed itself.
However, as a month went on the clutch started sinking to the floor during city driving (whenever it got hot).
The same fix that worked for everyone else- flushing/replacing with dot4 fluid and changing the rubber hose out to a braided insulated line- worked for me.
However, as a month went on the clutch started sinking to the floor during city driving (whenever it got hot).
The same fix that worked for everyone else- flushing/replacing with dot4 fluid and changing the rubber hose out to a braided insulated line- worked for me.
Also, what dot4 fluid is the best and is there a DIY out there on how to install the clutch line?
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 06-25-2008 at 08:26 AM.
06-25-2008, 09:04 AM
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Just ordered some Motul fluid from Sharif and Sandy at Forged Performance(poor girl always gets left out). Im hoping it will fix my clutch issues.
http://www.forgedperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=278
http://www.forgedperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=278
06-25-2008, 09:09 AM
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Also, I found a nice DIY while searching old posts for installation of a braided SS clutch line:
I guess I'll grab a Nismo SS braided clutch line, some dot4 fluid and give it a try. Hopefully then the clutch pedal return to the normal position after shifts.
Originally Posted by Eazzy
...As far as the SS Line install. break the 10mm fitting loose where your flex line goes into the solid line....Just loose, and tighten it again with your fingers. Pull off the retainer. Next, break the banjo fitting loose at the Slave. Re tighten with your fingers.
Have everything layed out. Have some one to replenish fluid.
Quick as a bunny on speed, unscrew the upper fitting and screw in the new SS line. Next, unscrew the banjo bolt and screw in the SS banjo. Tighten it. Tighten the upper connection, install the retainer.
All this time the resivour NEVER runs dry because you have someone that is constantly adding fluid.
Open the bleeder and tap the slave/lines to knock the bubbles loose. Tighten it and pump your clutch. Best to start the motor because the vibration helps break loose air. Repeat -Repeat.
Have everything layed out. Have some one to replenish fluid.
Quick as a bunny on speed, unscrew the upper fitting and screw in the new SS line. Next, unscrew the banjo bolt and screw in the SS banjo. Tighten it. Tighten the upper connection, install the retainer.
All this time the resivour NEVER runs dry because you have someone that is constantly adding fluid.
Open the bleeder and tap the slave/lines to knock the bubbles loose. Tighten it and pump your clutch. Best to start the motor because the vibration helps break loose air. Repeat -Repeat.
06-25-2008, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Barzten1
Where did you find the NISMO ss braided line? Im thinking about ordering some upgraded lines too. Forged has them for $50
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06-25-2008, 05:20 PM
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I need this too and found this.
http://storesense.megawebservers.com...ded/Detail.bok
I wonder if it is reliable with that price tag ?
http://storesense.megawebservers.com...ded/Detail.bok
I wonder if it is reliable with that price tag ?
06-25-2008, 05:31 PM
#9
After buying a "normal" ss clutch line and then burning thru it despite heat wrap, and ordering a Forged ss clutch line, I would never recommend anything but the Forged version.
Bear in mind my car is turbo'ed and makes a ton more heat, but forged's line is a lot better made then my previous line.
Bear in mind my car is turbo'ed and makes a ton more heat, but forged's line is a lot better made then my previous line.
06-26-2008, 04:23 AM
#10
Originally Posted by SC350ZR
I need this too and found this.
http://storesense.megawebservers.com...ded/Detail.bok
I wonder if it is reliable with that price tag ?
http://storesense.megawebservers.com...ded/Detail.bok
I wonder if it is reliable with that price tag ?
06-26-2008, 11:50 AM
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