300HP NA?
05-15-2014, 10:49 AM
#23
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If you want 300WHP on a DE, look at FI if you're not willing to dig into internals. Even with headers, cams, exhaust, intake - I've seen DE's at the high 270's low 280's on a Dynojet.
.. or you could jump onto a dyno with super inflated numbers!
.. or you could jump onto a dyno with super inflated numbers!
05-15-2014, 03:49 PM
#26
And I feel like I'm right where Suwaidi is saying he's seen DEs. If I had a 6mt with less trans power loss, I think I would be in the 270s.
05-15-2014, 09:52 PM
#28
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People are getting high teens in the city? Maybe I have a factory beast but I my mpg dash gauge and scangauge are both reporting 25mpg/32mph average. Mostly hard city driving. I haven't reset it in about a month.
I thought my 05 track was slow until I went 4 wide with a 13' SHO, G8 GXP, and BMW M5. The SHO was the only one to keep up. All 400+hp cars. This is all contrary to what I've seen anywhere, esp Youtube.
Allot of Z owners are loading their cars up with heavy stereo equipment, heavy wheels, putting on cone air-filters and using crappy oil. I have seen such a huge deviation in performance across different 350z's. I am a sucker for a < 13lb flywheel, but IMO the OE flywheel carries the perfect amount of power over on the next gear change. I have never seen a car where lightweight wheels make such a big difference either. I think allot of people just slap on mods just to mod, and not mod for efficiency.
Someone shooting for 300whp on a DE with a set of 27lb+ fancy wheels is going to get smoked by someone with wisely chosen bolt-ons and 18lb wheels.
I thought my 05 track was slow until I went 4 wide with a 13' SHO, G8 GXP, and BMW M5. The SHO was the only one to keep up. All 400+hp cars. This is all contrary to what I've seen anywhere, esp Youtube.
Allot of Z owners are loading their cars up with heavy stereo equipment, heavy wheels, putting on cone air-filters and using crappy oil. I have seen such a huge deviation in performance across different 350z's. I am a sucker for a < 13lb flywheel, but IMO the OE flywheel carries the perfect amount of power over on the next gear change. I have never seen a car where lightweight wheels make such a big difference either. I think allot of people just slap on mods just to mod, and not mod for efficiency.
Someone shooting for 300whp on a DE with a set of 27lb+ fancy wheels is going to get smoked by someone with wisely chosen bolt-ons and 18lb wheels.
05-16-2014, 04:11 AM
#30
I know this post is old. For all you Z owners still owning Z's in 2014, 300RWP with the right 3 or 4 bolt ons & Osiris tune will easily do it.
-Invidia test pipes with 02's (non revup motors will not pop CEL with this pipe)
-An intake that are in the space fwd of the radiator in the bumper section or even a K&N stock airbox (also it is widely stated that the 06 intake set up is one of the best single intakes)
-Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer with thermal couple. Any bigger & strut tower hits & power may decrease. . 5/16 seems to be the magic number
-A good high flow exhaust. After the test pipesor HFC's it goes 2-1 & realistically a single is lighter & a 3.5 would optimize power but is UGLY. A light HF exhaust that puts resinators linear with the pipes & not the perpendicular can at the bumper. The single line should be 3.5 & then an X pipe to 2.5 with tubular in line resinators. The can sound stock with calm driving. Not irritating. Cat backs are 350-1200 & often only difference is name. Inspect your parts!! Look down each tube. Look for obstructions where hangers were welded & especially Y,H & X pipes. Often they leave the intersecting tubing in blocking airflow. Only seen one but it would result in a HP loss.
-I would go with a decent clutch a tad stronger than stock. Our cars are pushing it as is with our clutches & if it's not slipping, if the clutch gets overpowered the slave cylinder goes & the car will stop pulling hard. Z's have had a recall on some clutches & they are famous for failing. Keep your foot on the dead man unless you are shifting a gear! a decent name street clutch rated for 350hp & you will be down there anyway so you might as well go with a lighter flywheel by a trusted company. Stillen & Nismo are backed by Nissan but do your homework. I know nothing about flywheels but they need to be the right weight with your rotating assy.
-Finally an Osiris tune done by a well known Z tuner. I live in the PNW & PSI has a guy who is world famous for tuning Z's. Google Jason Oefelein or google best 350Z tuner in nation. lol
- optional is some aftermarket headers PPE long tubes may get 300 alone or simple DC shortys for 170.OBX makes long tubes for 315. I would do PPE & might if instal is easy & requires no specail mods. I also need the O2 fix built in. I have 17k miles on a show worthy car, no CEL lights. 300RWHP. You will be over 310 with the long tube headers. You might pop 320 or high teens. The tune & parts will also increase fuel economy. The engine will get air easier & won't have to work as hard to pump the exhaust out. Your car is an air pump. You are easing the flow & volume. You also are exacting you fluel ratio throughout the entire band.
The tuner will allow for more fuel consumption when you are getting on it with resulting massive HP gains as a side effect. Calm, cop watching driving will see dratic improvements in economy. You might see an average in the mid 20's. I am high teens stock.
Don't hate for me commenting on an old forum. I stumbled across this goal & others need this info too. If you still have you Z then maybe you know. Also, NASA has opened a Spec Z class that is limiting dyno power to 258 to gen with 17's & it was crazy fast but spinning into 3rd bad & drifting. I got 19X11 in back 9.5 front & handling improved massively & I can mash it in first with a little slip. Also coilovers help. I am looking at 18X10.5 & 18X9.5 front. Kinda like running quicker gears.
-Invidia test pipes with 02's (non revup motors will not pop CEL with this pipe)
-An intake that are in the space fwd of the radiator in the bumper section or even a K&N stock airbox (also it is widely stated that the 06 intake set up is one of the best single intakes)
-Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer with thermal couple. Any bigger & strut tower hits & power may decrease. . 5/16 seems to be the magic number
-A good high flow exhaust. After the test pipesor HFC's it goes 2-1 & realistically a single is lighter & a 3.5 would optimize power but is UGLY. A light HF exhaust that puts resinators linear with the pipes & not the perpendicular can at the bumper. The single line should be 3.5 & then an X pipe to 2.5 with tubular in line resinators. The can sound stock with calm driving. Not irritating. Cat backs are 350-1200 & often only difference is name. Inspect your parts!! Look down each tube. Look for obstructions where hangers were welded & especially Y,H & X pipes. Often they leave the intersecting tubing in blocking airflow. Only seen one but it would result in a HP loss.
-I would go with a decent clutch a tad stronger than stock. Our cars are pushing it as is with our clutches & if it's not slipping, if the clutch gets overpowered the slave cylinder goes & the car will stop pulling hard. Z's have had a recall on some clutches & they are famous for failing. Keep your foot on the dead man unless you are shifting a gear! a decent name street clutch rated for 350hp & you will be down there anyway so you might as well go with a lighter flywheel by a trusted company. Stillen & Nismo are backed by Nissan but do your homework. I know nothing about flywheels but they need to be the right weight with your rotating assy.
-Finally an Osiris tune done by a well known Z tuner. I live in the PNW & PSI has a guy who is world famous for tuning Z's. Google Jason Oefelein or google best 350Z tuner in nation. lol
- optional is some aftermarket headers PPE long tubes may get 300 alone or simple DC shortys for 170.OBX makes long tubes for 315. I would do PPE & might if instal is easy & requires no specail mods. I also need the O2 fix built in. I have 17k miles on a show worthy car, no CEL lights. 300RWHP. You will be over 310 with the long tube headers. You might pop 320 or high teens. The tune & parts will also increase fuel economy. The engine will get air easier & won't have to work as hard to pump the exhaust out. Your car is an air pump. You are easing the flow & volume. You also are exacting you fluel ratio throughout the entire band.
The tuner will allow for more fuel consumption when you are getting on it with resulting massive HP gains as a side effect. Calm, cop watching driving will see dratic improvements in economy. You might see an average in the mid 20's. I am high teens stock.
Don't hate for me commenting on an old forum. I stumbled across this goal & others need this info too. If you still have you Z then maybe you know. Also, NASA has opened a Spec Z class that is limiting dyno power to 258 to gen with 17's & it was crazy fast but spinning into 3rd bad & drifting. I got 19X11 in back 9.5 front & handling improved massively & I can mash it in first with a little slip. Also coilovers help. I am looking at 18X10.5 & 18X9.5 front. Kinda like running quicker gears.
05-16-2014, 06:43 AM
#32
Registered User
It wasn't quick or consistent until I kept my temps at 174*f and deleted my PCV system. Pretty sure even with minor bolt-on's I was detonating with the stock PCV system in place on 93. Solid engine/tranny mounts helped put the power down.
I obviously do not have a spare tire, radio stuff. Weight reduction is key, obviously.
Last edited by Bigsyke; 05-16-2014 at 06:48 AM.
05-16-2014, 01:46 PM
#35
We were dead even, but this was a 40-120 roll. Anything less and I would've been left in the dust. The obvious bolt-ons for my rev-up. Mrev2/Z1 spacer/thermal, Megan V2 test pipes, OBX y-pipe, Nismo exhaust --along with oil pan spacer, Mizu radiator. My 05 Track wheels are pumped to 45psi.
It wasn't quick or consistent until I kept my temps at 174*f and deleted my PCV system. Pretty sure even with minor bolt-on's I was detonating with the stock PCV system in place on 93. Solid engine/tranny mounts helped put the power down.
I obviously do not have a spare tire, radio stuff. Weight reduction is key, obviously.
It wasn't quick or consistent until I kept my temps at 174*f and deleted my PCV system. Pretty sure even with minor bolt-on's I was detonating with the stock PCV system in place on 93. Solid engine/tranny mounts helped put the power down.
I obviously do not have a spare tire, radio stuff. Weight reduction is key, obviously.
05-16-2014, 06:49 PM
#36
Registered User
I removed the crossover hose and used 2 long 1/2 ID hoses and routed those towards the ground.
Unplugged the 5/8ths drivers side inlet hose from the intake tube and capped it with a 5/8ths cap. Either run a 5/8ths heater hose down towards the ground or bend the stock one that way.
I burn less oil with this setup. I had a post where It sounded like bolts were flying off my car when I let off the gas at high rpms. If I let off at 7k rpms it would sound like 100+ bolts were flying off and hitting the firewall. It no longer makes that noise so I can assume the high vaccum was pulling in enough oil to cause severe pre-ignition.
Last edited by Bigsyke; 05-16-2014 at 06:51 PM.
05-17-2014, 06:52 PM
#38
Capping those inlets and dumping the PCV to the ground is the cheap and easy way to do it...and honestly a bad idea. I'd be surprised if your car even idles properly.
You're better off just running a catch can off of the passenger side PCV. Catches the oil, passes the air back into the intake like it's supposed to. Easy and proper fix.
You're better off just running a catch can off of the passenger side PCV. Catches the oil, passes the air back into the intake like it's supposed to. Easy and proper fix.
05-17-2014, 09:03 PM
#39
Registered User
Capping those inlets and dumping the PCV to the ground is the cheap and easy way to do it...and honestly a bad idea. I'd be surprised if your car even idles properly.
You're better off just running a catch can off of the passenger side PCV. Catches the oil, passes the air back into the intake like it's supposed to. Easy and proper fix.
You're better off just running a catch can off of the passenger side PCV. Catches the oil, passes the air back into the intake like it's supposed to. Easy and proper fix.
It's less ideal for stop and go and multiple cold starts. The only two downsides are an increased TAN and higher oil temps. TAN can be irrelevant if you change your oil often enough.
If you have any sort of oil leak (valve covers, etc), your PCV system becomes useless and damaging. All vacuum is no longer supplied through the intake inlet but through whatever leak. You will get dirt directly into the engine.
Id rather change my oil more often than have to worry about excessive pressure fluttering the rings at WOT, alarming amounts of oil being ingested on deceleration, seals blowing out, dirt getting pulled into the crankcase via the inlet tube, spark plugs fouling and detonation.
How much volume can the restrictive PCV valve and orifice in the drivers side valve cover inlet tube really displace? --No much unless you're using krankvents.
Last edited by Bigsyke; 05-17-2014 at 09:15 PM.
05-18-2014, 06:10 AM
#40
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A Stock 03-04-05 none HR motor would see realistically 220-240 on my old dyno. With every bolt on available and an aggressive tune we were lucky to hit the 260-270 range. The highest N/A Z I can remember I ever tuned made around 293 whp on my dyno. It ironically was an auto car with every bolt on known to god, as well as cams and head work, with an upgraded stall converter. It felt like a beast..
Prior to that we did run an N/A Z that was tuned by Bob Ida back in 2003, that was running high 12's on the 1/4 mile. It had all bolt ons including long tube headers (which are a must on a real NA car, dont waste your money on shorties...) and one hell of a driver..
Prior to that we did run an N/A Z that was tuned by Bob Ida back in 2003, that was running high 12's on the 1/4 mile. It had all bolt ons including long tube headers (which are a must on a real NA car, dont waste your money on shorties...) and one hell of a driver..
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