niceguyyy01

iTrader: (4)

I am gonna try out an idea I have for getting all the air out of the system, that seems to be so prevalent in our cars. I found a bleed valve and I am going to put it in the top of my radiator hose adapter that I bought for my temp sender. I am gonna drill and tap the other side of the adapter and put the tmp sendr on the bottom and the bleed valve on the top. Since the hose seems to be the top most portion of the cooling system, I think this will work and be an easy way to get the air out. I'll keep everyone posted on the results.

gotparts?

iTrader: (1)

another idea is the breather tank mod. pretty cool. swirls all the bubbles out of the cooling system constantly. had nothing but good luck with these setups.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the car already has a bleed valve on the back hose, passenger side, right near the battery compartment - works perfectly fine in my experience

still a bit of a process to do, but it does work

niceguyyy01

iTrader: (4)

Where can I read about this mod?

Z1... I just thought the purge valve up by the radiator would be actually a higher point than the one in the back and easier to get to.

Spike100

I don’t think adding an additional bleed valve is wise. As Z1 Performance mentions, the car has this in place (where he describes the location). And, as Z1 Performance also says, it works fine if you follow the protocol to evacuate the system.

I would be concerned about your proposed setup since it’s possible that it could potentially draw air into the system, and make the stock setup less effective.

But maybe your idea could work. Go for it and let us know the results.

--Spike

Wheelman

iTrader: (3)

Its pretty easy to purge the air and you dont need to add anything. Start the car cool with the radiator cap off and let it warm up past the thermostat opening temperature. After its past this point, have someone sit in your car and hold the engine at about 1500 or so rpms, and the coolant level will fall slightly. Top it off, put on the cap, then let idle and it will force all the air out into the overflow tank.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

All i will say to this is not!

Wheelman

iTrader: (3)

Thats a service manual procedure for many cars i've worked on. Not like the Z has a special cooling system or anything. Since its wrong, why don't you try explaining why? My moneys on, you just don't know what the hell you're talking about....

rookie

iTrader: (10)

What you just said to do will be a messy lesson.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

You got that right Rookie and he is 100% right i really dont know anything about these cars.I have installed a stillen s/c and the greddy twins on my car and quite a few other things but i quess i still no nothing about these cars.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

The guys commenting happen to be right. I can't say what specifically about the Z makes it not like other cars as far as bleeding the coolant system goes, but it just doesn't tend to respond like any other car I've ever worked on. There is a bleeding procedure outlined in the FSM, and that has been outlined on this site countless times. It often doesn't even work on the first try and multiple attempts are required, which just goes to show how many coolant passages there are in the block and head. Following those outlined procedures, sometimes several times, is the proper way to do it. Unfortunately doing it the way you suggest will lead to a large amount of coolant overflow right at the radiator neck

irax

on my 240's i don't bother burping them, i just put a coolant swirl tank and turn the heater on when i fill it.