Stock GTO motor mounts :mrgreen:


the TH350 fits good and I'm able to use my stock trans crossmember also

 

I'm not using their kit

 

got most of the hard part done, mounts are all done and going to try and get the oil pan done this coming week. Did some test fits to make sure everything was going to clear

stock fans and rad.




biggest thing was making sure the hood would shut all the way, it does

 

I have been interested in doing this, but was really wanting to use the swap kit from hinson. What is the deal with them?? What is the reason for the negativity against them?

 

Lookin good man. keep us up to date!!

 

I was going to use them, but after talking with them afew times I knew I had to do something else. They just have bad customer service imo.

If you are looking at a kit maybe try SIKKY http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...40sx-350z.html

So far I have about $1,200 in this swap (motor and all) Thats less then any swap kit and I have not used a welder yet. When its all done I don't see me having more then $2,700 in it (after cam and tune). Its just taking time to get everything worked out.

 

Thanks

I'm trying to keep this updated

 

you were able to fab your own mounting brackets?

 

I used stock GTO motor mounts and just made a small bracket for the drivers side

where the red is on the crossmember is the stock motor mount bolt hole.


I'll get some pics of the bracket and you can see above on the pass. side it lines right up

 

JKsstar,
While I think you're efforts are awsome I'm a little consern about your mounting methods. From some the to photos you've posted the motor doesn't appear to be mounted center-line of the car. The motor appears to be sitting too far the right (pass side) and rear **** angled to the right (pass side) as well.
If I'm correct you're going to run into some major problems later when it comes time to do the drive shaft. I could be wrong though.

 

The pics were took before the drivers side was bolted in so it may have been alittle off (sitting at a angle). It would move very easy with the mount just sitting on the cross member.

Also you are right, it does sit to the pass side more but that was the only way I could get it to line up. That was my biggest worry on doing this swap, I have double checked and I'm 99.9% sure my driveshaft will be straight.

 

Good work!

 

How are you resolving getting the engine to run with the chevy ecu and the Nissan guages/ bcm? Thanks

 

Might want to check http://fueledracing.com/

They make a swap kit and aren't garbage like Hinson.

 

is it me...or is there A LOT more room in there with the LS then the VQ?

 

everything I need on the car works without the ECU (not sure about the abs but don't need to have it) and I'm planing on running aftermarket gauges.

 

in for updates

 

Looking good! Can't wait to here it run.

 

I'm running both ecu's in my car. The GM PCM will be in total control of all engine function and tuning and the Nissan ECU will control all can functions and guages. One only guage I might have to cutomize is the tach because it receives it's signal from the Nissan injectors which is then routed through the ECU and then to the CAN system. The Nissan wont accept the GM signal but I have a plan in the works to remedy this situation.
Pulling out the Nissan CAN system would be too much of a PITA the EMC's BCM functions have too much control over the car to just simply remove. I mean things line Wipers, windows, horn, gauges, door locks, AC and heater, trunk latch, traction control, etc and all controlled through the CAN bus and nissan ECU. Get my point?

 

I have the Nissan ECU out of the car and wipers, horn, lights, door locks all that works, gas gauge and so on. I don't think the heater works but we have short winters where I live. Like I said everything I need works without it, now if I ever put a/c back on the car I will put the Nissan ECU back in.


Have you started your swap yet? Did you get a kit? Would like to see how you mounted evertything. Not alot of info out for this swap in 350s.