Lsx 03 350z
Take the stock Z throttle cable wires, follow them all the way back to the ECU harness, tear them completely out of the main connector! Purchase cable operated throttle body and complete project.
Thank you sir, so you are getting rind of the drive by wire system and going back to a cable. I see.
Yup. Going to cable is ten times easier than integrating the drive by wire. Luckily there are quite a few cable kits out there for LS swaps. I purchased the Lokar kit which is Teflon lined and SS braided outside. Includes all hardware.
Here are some pictures of the throttle cable. I have to bend the firewall a bit to get it straight. I drilled the firewall pass through with the dash in so it was a bit hard to get it as perfect as I wanted. It still feels smooth though and works great!
You can see in the first picture that I should have made the piece of "u-channel" I welded on a bit longer and moved the mounting point for the cable up a bit for better cable alignment. The second picture is showing how I cut some of the pedal stop out to increase my pedal travel. Now that I have stripped my interior I have to add some length back to the stop but oh well.
You can see in the first picture that I should have made the piece of "u-channel" I welded on a bit longer and moved the mounting point for the cable up a bit for better cable alignment. The second picture is showing how I cut some of the pedal stop out to increase my pedal travel. Now that I have stripped my interior I have to add some length back to the stop but oh well.
Thanks
How does the ecu act without this signal. Looks like no problem adding the cable, not sure how the ecu will act when it does not see this signal.
Everything in my car works flawless and I seriously removed about 30 wires from the main harness connector, an I mean removed as in yanked them completely out.
Which ECU? The stock Z? If so, who cares what the stock Z ECU thinks. It controls nothing on the car anymore other than the fuel pump which I recommend rewiring so you can't have fuel cut.
Everything in my car works flawless and I seriously removed about 30 wires from the main harness connector, an I mean removed as in yanked them completely out.
Everything in my car works flawless and I seriously removed about 30 wires from the main harness connector, an I mean removed as in yanked them completely out.
We find out in the morning
They fit in fine but I see what you are talking about with them pointed right at the rack.
So I raised the motor 1" to see if I can get them to work. They will be tight and I will have to move some of the lines on the rack but I think I can get them to work.
So I raised the motor 1" to see if I can get them to work. They will be tight and I will have to move some of the lines on the rack but I think I can get them to work.
Looking forward to results and how you route everything.
I knew that they would fit in the engine bay. The outlets will end up having some nasty bends in them though which is why I ended up returning the block huggers. Figured why go through all that work to sacrifice performance in an area that these engines see good gains in.
Looking forward to results and how you route everything.
Looking forward to results and how you route everything.
I have to get my oil pan back before I do anything else. Would hate to get it back and then have to do more work to it.
Do you think you'll have any interference issues with the flex plate or TC shield?
Hopeing they will have it done this week so I can work on it some more this coming weekend.
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liqalu04
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Jan 2, 2022 12:58 PM
