Yep. All $500 dollars of it.

 

Don't see how you can spend 20k$ on a ls1 swap. You can use a 4.8,5.3,5.7,6.0 motor out of a damn truck in the junkyard for less than 600$. A hotrod magazine made 468 horspower out of a 5.3 with a comp cams thumper cam. A th200r4 or th700r4 is not much. Get a used one and have it rebuilt.

 

none of those engines are going to come close to an LS7 on performance. If that was the case then why wouldn't they just throw one of those engines into a vette in the first place? because it's a lot heavier and with less potential.

you can use any of those engines just fine if you want to save money, nothing wrong with that. If you want a 500+hp all motor engine as it sits then the ls7 is the way to go. it's also a great deal lighter than those iron block engines from the trucks. saving 100lbs of weight on the front of the car is a big deal when a person is already adding more weight to the front of the car over stock. All reasons why a person would want to drop the extra cash.

 

Can take a truck 6.0 mill the block and heads for a compression increase, have the heads ported they are like ls6 heads. And make over 500hp easy. Use a 4l60e transmission with a standalone contoller or a 4l60 non electronic. 100 pounds of weight isn't anything. How much do twin turbos weight with all the piping and an intercooler?

400-450 at the wheels will be very very fast in a Z due to the tourqe the enngine makes.

 

ya, you can do all that and rack up money and time and get that to work or you can just buy one proven.

And you made the point exactly why you want to save weight: forced induction. If you add forced induction to the engine you need to start with the lowest possible weight you can get.

there is no way to prove either side. you obviously are for the cheapest setup you can throw in the car and this person chooses to spend the money for the best possible outcome. 2 totally different mindsets.

 

Point exactly.

Current working mods -
Lingenfelter CNC Ported L92/LS3 Cylinder Heads
Livernois Motorsports Stage II cam 232/236@.050,.600 /112 LSA
Yella Terras Shaft Mounted Roller Rocker Arms – 1.7
GMPP Hollow Intake and Sodium filled Exhaust Valves
Patriot Gold LS Dual Valve Spring & Titanium Retainers - .660
Comp Cams 4130 Chromemoly Pushrods - 7.400
F.A.S.T 102mm LSXR Intake Manifold

Expected results over 500+whp (550 ish)and still N/A. Besides... You cant swap L92/LS3 cylinder heads on a 4.8,5.3,5.7 without major block work. L92/LS3 cylinder heads are identical to the LS7 heads without the titainium valves but Lingenfelter CNC Ported L92/LS3 cylinder heads flow better than the LS7 and still maintain the stock LS2 compression and rev to over 7500rpm.

BTW Rocks, It's not 100lbs difference in weight for the iron blocks it's almost 200lbs over the stock weight of the VQ. 100lbs of IS a lot now that the LS motor extends in front of the front wheels so it would make sense that 200lbs would be a lot more right? Add a turbo to that and what do you got?
One more piece of advice. Upgrade your suspension and off the shelf calabrated for a stock 350z's weight wont cut it. Believe it.

 

so much knowledge in this thread. Really interesting when it comes down to built tt vq or all motor lsx on spray. 500whp on motor feels very good gents in an f-body, but I'd love to see it in a z. A local rolled his gto years ago and is parting it out. Hmmm.....


Off topic but I'm still new to lsx platforms. The 6.0l truck block is an iron block correct?

 

The LY6 out of the Denali/Sierra...yes.

 

Yep. What he ^ said.

Vortec 6000 VVT (LY6)

 

FYI-

The 350z oil pressure sensor can easily be retrofitted to the LS series blocks so you retain the stock oil pressure gauge in the Z. Simply buy an M16 x 1.5 hydraulic port plug and drill and tap the center out to 1/8" BSPT. Works great and looks super clean. Cost only $9 plus about a half hour on a lathe to modify the plug.

The stock VQ35 coolant temperature sensor is also the same size as the LS sensor and drops right into the head.

 

Thanks bro for tht info.

 

subbing

 

I was able to get the gauge black with amber reverse glow... and did you see the GPS speedo that goes to 200? ....I need it lol

 

Amy updates or is this project dead?

 

great thread, in for updates

 

Been along time since I updated this. Last year was a bad year, short on money and did not have a place to work on the car (condo would not let me work on it in my garage) so I moved out.

So got a new garage and started back on it with what little money I had to spend.

I got my oil pan off getting welded up and trying to find some headers that I can fit in there just to get it going (untill I can get some long tubes made).

car in its new home



Built TH350, full manual reverse shift, and a 2700 stall



Trans bolted up



All in and lined up (you can see the brackets I made for the motor mounts to sit on)



Tons of room up front (stock 350Z fans and truck water pump)

 

Glad to see the project hasen't died.

Why did you go with only a 2700rpm stall? Drivability on the street?

 

Got a good deal on it, I wanted to go some where around 3500 stall but I'm cheap.

Do you have any pics on how you hooked up the thottle cable to the stock pedal? I'll have afew more ?s as well

 

Here are some pictures of the throttle cable. I have to bend the firewall a bit to get it straight. I drilled the firewall pass through with the dash in so it was a bit hard to get it as perfect as I wanted. It still feels smooth though and works great!





You can see in the first picture that I should have made the piece of "u-channel" I welded on a bit longer and moved the mounting point for the cable up a bit for better cable alignment. The second picture is showing how I cut some of the pedal stop out to increase my pedal travel. Now that I have stripped my interior I have to add some length back to the stop but oh well.

 

Can you help me with understanding the wiring on the throttle body. I have found the wiring diagrams on the the z's harness and the LS2's harness. It seems that they are pretty close. Thanks for any info.