ATF Cooler Installation Question
Should the aftermarket ATF cooler be the only connection, disengaging the stock radiator cooler? Or should the ATF pipe still go through the stock radiator cooler before the aftermarket cooler?
bypass like mentioned^^^^
as far i remember trans line was the only fluid other than coolant running to the radiator. get you some zip ties, hoses, small hose clamps and kitty litter...helps with oil stains on driveway.
when you upgrade ur radiator as well you wont need to drain the trans fluid
gimme n hour n ill post a pic on how i, (urs truely) did it
as far i remember trans line was the only fluid other than coolant running to the radiator. get you some zip ties, hoses, small hose clamps and kitty litter...helps with oil stains on driveway.
when you upgrade ur radiator as well you wont need to drain the trans fluid
gimme n hour n ill post a pic on how i, (urs truely) did it
So let me get this straight.....I should tell my mechanic to mount the ATF cooler on the transmission using those brass bolts you mentioned?? He currently intends to mount it at the radiator which I understand is the standard location for an ATF cooler.
bypass like mentioned^^^^
as far i remember trans line was the only fluid other than coolant running to the radiator. get you some zip ties, hoses, small hose clamps and kitty litter...helps with oil stains on driveway.
when you upgrade ur radiator as well you wont need to drain the trans fluid
gimme n hour n ill post a pic on how i, (urs truely) did it
as far i remember trans line was the only fluid other than coolant running to the radiator. get you some zip ties, hoses, small hose clamps and kitty litter...helps with oil stains on driveway.
when you upgrade ur radiator as well you wont need to drain the trans fluid
gimme n hour n ill post a pic on how i, (urs truely) did it
Looking forward to those pics.
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I did not bypass the radiator, but rather ran it from the "out" or "return" side of the radiator to my B&M tranny cooler THEN back to the tranny.....seems to work fine for me!
That what i have done on others cars , unless you replace the radiator with an aftermarket version that has no trans cooler in it.
I was reading instructions about installing the ATF cooler and it mentioned needing to relocate the power steering cooler in some cases. I was wonder if it is possible to just remover the oem PS cooler completely, put upgraded ATF cooler in that area, then just route the PS lines to the OEM ATF cooler(radiator)?
I was reading instructions about installing the ATF cooler and it mentioned needing to relocate the power steering cooler in some cases. I was wonder if it is possible to just remover the oem PS cooler completely, put upgraded ATF cooler in that area, then just route the PS lines to the OEM ATF cooler(radiator)?
most after market radiators dont come with openings for the transmission fluid because they are designed for MT.
dude im so sorry, i am back in the hospital in dc and my car is in arkansas. when i get home ill take pics if you still need them. its easy to do. checking trans fluid levels afterwards is vital!!!
one bad thing about running the AT fluid thru the rad is when the rad decides to give up, it mixes up the coolant and AT fluid together. This will nicely **** up the tranny - TC, VB(sludge build up gets the valves stuck), Clutchpacks get toasted, seals etc etc...
I've learned from this mistake the hard way and now Im currently rebuilding the AT.
the AT specialists always recommend running the ATF only on a separate cooler.
IMO the stock PS cooler does a great job. I live in a hot country, and have tracked the Z several times already. The PS stock cooler never caused any issues. So there's no need to touch that.
I've learned from this mistake the hard way and now Im currently rebuilding the AT.
the AT specialists always recommend running the ATF only on a separate cooler.
IMO the stock PS cooler does a great job. I live in a hot country, and have tracked the Z several times already. The PS stock cooler never caused any issues. So there's no need to touch that.
Last edited by 350Zdj; Jan 3, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
one bad thing about running the AT fluid thru the rad is when the rad decides to give up, it mixes up the coolant and AT fluid together. This will nicely **** up the tranny - TC, VB(sludge build up gets the valves stuck), Clutchpacks get toasted, seals etc etc...
I've learned from this mistake the hard way and now Im currently rebuilding the AT.
the AT specialists always recommend running the ATF only on a separate cooler.
IMO the stock PS cooler does a great job. I live in a hot country, and have tracked the Z several times already. The PS stock cooler never caused any issues. So there's no need to touch that.
I've learned from this mistake the hard way and now Im currently rebuilding the AT.
the AT specialists always recommend running the ATF only on a separate cooler.
IMO the stock PS cooler does a great job. I live in a hot country, and have tracked the Z several times already. The PS stock cooler never caused any issues. So there's no need to touch that.
Edit: I had to go eat so I cut my post short.
Did you have the radiator fail on the 350z? If so could you be more detailed about what caused the failure? I would like to know if you had any mods to either the cooling system or AT. Some people go do stupid s#it to their cars(not fixing a coolant leak that lead to overheating) then blame the cheap parts. I just want to weed through these type a failures, but if all was OEM and fine, I wonder why the failure happened. Was it a certain mileage, climate (road salt), running tap water only in rad. Could the failure be tracked like a e36 m3's water pump fails at 100k religously.
Last edited by screener; Jan 3, 2010 at 02:09 PM.
hi beddow.
Actualy the failure just suddenly happened.
I replaced the coolant fluid and after covering 100 miles, the AT started acting weird like clutch slipping and such. Later on it just overheated and it made the grinding noise. The Z couldnt more an inch no matter how much it revved and i was in the middle of an intersection.
It turned out that there was already a tiny hole or crack inside the rad and that it's somehow gotten bigger or opened up more after I drained and refilled the coolant.
THe mixture looked something like one of those starbucks vanila-caramel frappuccino's. tastey.
so i learned a lesson that nomatter how confident i am with the Z, the fluids still need to be checked every otherday.
Actualy the failure just suddenly happened.
I replaced the coolant fluid and after covering 100 miles, the AT started acting weird like clutch slipping and such. Later on it just overheated and it made the grinding noise. The Z couldnt more an inch no matter how much it revved and i was in the middle of an intersection.
It turned out that there was already a tiny hole or crack inside the rad and that it's somehow gotten bigger or opened up more after I drained and refilled the coolant.
THe mixture looked something like one of those starbucks vanila-caramel frappuccino's. tastey.
so i learned a lesson that nomatter how confident i am with the Z, the fluids still need to be checked every otherday.
I was reading instructions about installing the ATF cooler and it mentioned needing to relocate the power steering cooler in some cases. I was wonder if it is possible to just remover the oem PS cooler completely, put upgraded ATF cooler in that area, then just route the PS lines to the OEM ATF cooler(radiator)?
READING POST 13 and POST 16 are clear "tale tale" signs........
having had a tranny temp gauge would have saved that tranny......and having separate cooling cores would have kept the tranny from die'n as well.
All that would have had happened with a oem radiator leak is your car would over heat and you could have found the problem and fixed it.....
at the point 350Zdj learned what was wrong, it was too late........His post is the most informative here and post like that let us learn.
OP,
route it separate.........
Do not plumb PS into oem radiator......for what to save a buck from buying a core??
as for tracking the oem PS core was not sufficent. with texas heat and DRIFTING, i found my ps fluid boiling and my steering got really soft and was not confidence inspiring at all.....
i did this: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...teering+cooler
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 4, 2010 at 11:21 AM.
are you hitting the course, then sitting before you get to go back out again, which then in turn lets the PS system cool down???
When i drift, i hit the course 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, times straight.......no breaks no waiting in lines at my local events......i found the PS cooler to crap out and PS fluid to boil quick....
what are your track conditions and routines??? that can play a part in WHY you never noticed it before.....
-J
that reason alone is why that mod is used on trucks that tow a lot or off road only vehicles..
-J








