Sound Performance Differential Brace kit!!
#3
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In order to clear the Nismo cover, you would have to grind a bit off of your fins. Not a whole lot, but it is not a direct bolt on with that particular cover.
Reid
Reid
#5
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The grinding will mostly consist of that second fin inward (the one that extends really low by the bolt hole) and possibly the first fin a little bit. You will still have a large majority of the cover's fins on there doing there job!
Reid
Reid
#7
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he idea here is to disperse the load across 4 high quality bolts rather than the single rear mounting bolt. We have already torn up our shop Z (SP03) and came up with this product as a fix. Works like a charm!!
Reid
Reid
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#9
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No solid diff bushings and our Diff Brace kit is not the same. Allow me to elaborate:
Solid differential bushings are designed to take out one more variable of the power trying to get from your engine to your wheels. I have solid differential bushings in my supra and they work wonders for getting the power to the wheels with a lot less of the wheel hop drama normally associated with launching an Independent Rear Suspension car from a dead stop.
Our SP Diff Brace kit converts your rear stock single mounting bolt to the 4 mounting bolts with our high quality bolts to help disperse the load across more than just putting all the stress on a single bolt. Since we put these on SP03 (our race Z) we have not broken a diff or diff housing since!!!
Reid
Solid differential bushings are designed to take out one more variable of the power trying to get from your engine to your wheels. I have solid differential bushings in my supra and they work wonders for getting the power to the wheels with a lot less of the wheel hop drama normally associated with launching an Independent Rear Suspension car from a dead stop.
Our SP Diff Brace kit converts your rear stock single mounting bolt to the 4 mounting bolts with our high quality bolts to help disperse the load across more than just putting all the stress on a single bolt. Since we put these on SP03 (our race Z) we have not broken a diff or diff housing since!!!
Reid
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I called SP to inquire about the brace, yes you must drill holes in the subframe, and yes it should work with a GTspec rear lateral brace.
Last edited by BrazenZ; 03-02-2010 at 03:42 AM.
#17
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Yes you do have to drill two holes in the subframe for this to work and it does fit with with the GTspec rear brace. The idea here is to reduce the range of movement of the differential so yes, it will help reduce wheel hop as well as provide a stronger mounting foundation for your rearend.
Reid
Reid
Last edited by Reid@SP; 03-02-2010 at 02:45 PM.
#19
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There's no exact way to answer the question of diff bushigs and the brace. It depends on what you want and wha you're planning on doing with your car.
In drag racing you want to eliminate the most variables possible. This means strengthening as many pasts as possible and choosing these parts based on how consistent they will make you. For example, launch control, slicks/skinnies (NOT drag radials on 6mt especially), solid diff bushings, diff brace, LSD, etc.
All of these parts will make your car stronger while at the same time help you get down the strip at a more consistent rate. However, in the drivetrain, when eliminating these variables, you are removing your "fuse" in the system. The fuse in the drivetrain is simply your weakest physical part. Parts included here are typically your driveshaft, axles, differential case, ring & pinion, etc.
When you removing something that was normay your weak fuse, the next weakest part becomes your fuse. Now let's see how this relates to the Z. The carbon fiber driveshaft is obviously not the fuse. Before the diff brace and/or solid bushings it wad your differential case an possibly ring & pinion. After running the diff brace and/or solid bushings, your axles are probably the next weakest point. This doesn't mean that your axles will start breakin!!!!
For the weekend warrior and hardcore drag racer, the diff brace (and I would also suggest the solid bushings) is an absolute must! I hope this answers your questions!
Reid
In drag racing you want to eliminate the most variables possible. This means strengthening as many pasts as possible and choosing these parts based on how consistent they will make you. For example, launch control, slicks/skinnies (NOT drag radials on 6mt especially), solid diff bushings, diff brace, LSD, etc.
All of these parts will make your car stronger while at the same time help you get down the strip at a more consistent rate. However, in the drivetrain, when eliminating these variables, you are removing your "fuse" in the system. The fuse in the drivetrain is simply your weakest physical part. Parts included here are typically your driveshaft, axles, differential case, ring & pinion, etc.
When you removing something that was normay your weak fuse, the next weakest part becomes your fuse. Now let's see how this relates to the Z. The carbon fiber driveshaft is obviously not the fuse. Before the diff brace and/or solid bushings it wad your differential case an possibly ring & pinion. After running the diff brace and/or solid bushings, your axles are probably the next weakest point. This doesn't mean that your axles will start breakin!!!!
For the weekend warrior and hardcore drag racer, the diff brace (and I would also suggest the solid bushings) is an absolute must! I hope this answers your questions!
Reid
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Are extended differential bolts + washers included, if needed? (All bolts, including the washers for the new bolt locations on the sub-frame?)
Does the kit come with installation instructions? I would be doing this on jack stands and would rather have a clear-cut, easy to read list of steps.
Does the kit come with installation instructions? I would be doing this on jack stands and would rather have a clear-cut, easy to read list of steps.