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What extra gaskets/orings are needed when replacing head gaskets?

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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 02:14 PM
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Default What extra gaskets/orings are needed when replacing head gaskets?

Ok, so in 2 weeks i'm going to tear down the engine. I need to get all my stuff ordered asap so i can have it waiting for me when i'm on break.

headgaskets (prob cosworth or cometic)
intake manifold gaskets
front crankshaft seal
2 rear water pipe gaskets


That's the list i have so far. What other things should i get to pull this car apart to change head gaskets? I'm sure not all the little orings that nissan says to replace need replaced. I actually do'nt think i need the water pipe ones either. I reused them when i had to take the pipe off before.

ALso, is there a kit that someone sells that everyone uses which makes it simple to order? I see a couple kits on partstrain but it looks like there is a bunch of stuff i dont need in there.

does the upper oil pan need removed to re-install the rear part of the timing chain cover? Do i need new half moon shaped "seals" as they call it on the upper oil pan where the seal goes?

thanks
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Keep it real simple and order the Nissan engine rebuild gasket kit. Its about $200 and it covers everything. Everything in the timing covers, between oil pan and block, everything.
Unfortunately, it duplicates head gaskets (which you won't need if your upgrading) but this way you won't miss anything.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Keep it real simple and order the Nissan engine rebuild gasket kit. Its about $200 and it covers everything. Everything in the timing covers, between oil pan and block, everything.
Unfortunately, it duplicates head gaskets (which you won't need if your upgrading) but this way you won't miss anything.
damn, that sucks big time.

so do i have to remove the upper pan to take off and reinstall the front timing cover? I was hoping not to pull that thing off since it would always add a chance to have a leak.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:23 AM
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No you don't have to separate the upper oil pan.But even doing that is only 2 small o-rings anyway. You can accomplish the task keeping the upper oil pan in place. No worries.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
No you don't have to separate the upper oil pan.But even doing that is only 2 small o-rings anyway. You can accomplish the task keeping the upper oil pan in place. No worries.
awsome. i figured i could.

The reason behind not removing the upper pan is only due to the fact that i do'nt have any leaks right now and taking it apart would leave a possibility for me to screw something up which could cause a leak later.

thanks for your input!
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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Yea, just pick up the overhaul gasket kit. Get yourself a rear main seal while your at it since Nissan didn't see fit to include it in the kit.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
Yea, just pick up the overhaul gasket kit. Get yourself a rear main seal while your at it since Nissan didn't see fit to include it in the kit.
is that hte kid with the head gaskets? there are a few kits they offer.

would i need a rear main seal if i'm not removing my upper pan and the seal on it right now isnt that old?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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Yea, the kit with the head gaskets comes with a front seal but not the rear. It's best to just knock all that stuff out while you have the engine apart. It would suck to have one of those seals start leaking on you 6 months from now.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
Yea, the kit with the head gaskets comes with a front seal but not the rear. It's best to just knock all that stuff out while you have the engine apart. It would suck to have one of those seals start leaking on you 6 months from now.
i put the engine in the car in november.... headgaskets didn't blow from age
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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I figured that, just sayin, if you're going to have the engine down that far, you might as well go the distance. It's not too hard to do and the rear main is like an extra $30 somethin.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
I figured that, just sayin, if you're going to have the engine down that far, you might as well go the distance. It's not too hard to do and the rear main is like an extra $30 somethin.

auuuuuuuhuhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....

damn it, i know i know. I have to decide if taking the risk is worth it. I'll be pissed if i screw something up and then have a leaky seal.

rear main can be changed without taking the upper pan off right?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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The rear main actually comes already inserted into it's little aluminum plate, so it prolly won't go on without removing the upper pan, if you try to force it you could mess up the rubber seal between the rear main plate and the upper pan.

It's really not bad removing the upper pan, just one more part you have to clean silicone off of. As long as you do it by the book and pookie the corners of the rubber seals and seal up the pan right, you'll do just fine.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
The rear main actually comes already inserted into it's little aluminum plate, so it prolly won't go on without removing the upper pan, if you try to force it you could mess up the rubber seal between the rear main plate and the upper pan.

It's really not bad removing the upper pan, just one more part you have to clean silicone off of. As long as you do it by the book and pookie the corners of the rubber seals and seal up the pan right, you'll do just fine.
twisting my arm, twistin my arm.

pm me your address so if i have a leak i can come punch you in the baby maker
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:38 AM
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pm'ed.....
















no not really.... I may need that appendage again in the future haha. You got the FSM? If not, see if someone can scan you those parts or if you can find it on PDF, just follow the book and you'll be just fine bro.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
pm'ed...

no not really.... I may need that appendage again in the future haha. You got the FSM? If not, see if someone can scan you those parts or if you can find it on PDF, just follow the book and you'll be just fine bro.
ya, i have the pdf manual. I've done tons of bike engines. It's always nerve racking pulling apart an engine you've never done before. Engine was assembled when i got it so i don't like screwing up what works but i'll give it a shot.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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I've built more than a handful of VQ's, pm me if you need anything.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by binder
It's always nerve racking pulling apart an engine you've never done before.
True dat, the book helps, but you need that experience to back you up and fill in the blanks that the manual sometimes leaves out. I gots faith in you.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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ya, i'm not as worried now that i have everything ordered.

It's finals week here at med school and i'm just stressed so everything appears to be some huge mountain that it really isn't.
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