so thicker oils are better for your car?

 

I run Mobil 1 5W-30's and got Royal Purble 5W-30 for my next oil change. Gonna try them and see how it is although I think I'm not that sensitive to feel the real difference

If you want some real high end engine oils, try out MOTUL 300V racing oil. Although it's labeled as racing oil, it is fully usuable to the street cars. A lot of my friends back in Korea uses this oil and they say Motuls are by far the best oil they have ever used.
Just beware that they cost $25 per 2 liter bottle. (about $12 a quart) ouch!
I'll try Motul 300V 10W-40 when the spring comes.

 

Mobil 1.

Sooo, I am guessing I can not change my tranny fluid to somethign better and smoother without voiding the warranty? I'd like to but will not take a chance with warranty. Any info appreciated.

 

You can change the gear oil in the tranny as long as you use something rated API GL-4. (GL-5 for the rear diff)

 

Have you had this confirmed with a dealership?

 

the "Recommended Fluids and Lubricants" page in the owner's manual lists the required specifications for all oils and lubes in the vehicle. If a specific Nissan fluid is required (such as for ATs), it is so stated. If they require you to use their products (Nissan branded), they must furnish them for free under the warranty period.
My Service Manager advised that I just keep a log of the fluids used to show compliance with the API rating requirements.

 

Honestly guys, it makes ZERO difference what oil you use, as long as you change it at the recommended intervals (or sooner if you are particularly hard on the car or like to be careful).

Granted, we run and sell Royal Purple for some of our own shop cars (not all of them!), becuase it happens to be the favorite of my machinest, whco also builds our motors. I run what he tells me becuase he knows the motor he built better than I.

've run castol on previous cars, all of which had loads of performance work done to them, without an issue. I have also run Mobil 1 in one of our race cars (BMW), only becuase its what teh previous owner of the ca ran (incidentally that motor just let go at our last race.....so take that FWIW !).

Stick to the recommended intervals guys, and use a good filter (OEM is good, WIX is good, I personally have run Fram on cars with upwards of 600 hp (including my own) without incident, others say Fram is horrible....there is no winning!

Good luck!

 

Z1, thanks for your honest input, I agree with you but have switched to Mobil 1. But agree 100% that its the actual changing of the oil at intervals is more important than the brand of oil.

 

i'm going to try amsoil. my friend tells me that amsoil makes a claim that you dont have to change your oil for 10 or 20k miles??? i'm personally not going to test that claim, but just wondering if others have heard the same.

 

Here is Amsoil's recommendation for their regular 5W-30:
"In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline engines: drain oil at 25,000 miles or one-year intervals, whichever comes first."
Personally, I will be changing every 6,000 miles or so. They do make a less expensive full synthetic designed for 7500 mile service life.

 

Here is an admittedly self-serving test of Amsoil vs. Mobil One:
http://www.amsoil.com/performancetes..._vs_mobil1.htm

 

Just get your oil tested when you change your filter. The oil itself SHOULD be fine for over 15,000 miles. (Just remember to top it off when you change filters.)

If the analysis comes back fine, no need to change the oil. If the analysis says it's time to change, or something comes up out of spec, drain the oil...

 

25k mile oil changes huh.......I wouldn't bet the farm that Amsoil will warranty your motor if you let it go that long. And who on earth would simply change the filter and not change the oil........thats like turning your underwear inside out and wearing it 2 days in a row.

Personally, I am using what I have always used on my own cars

 

If you have an indepentant oil analysis done on your oil, you have PROOF of the quality of the oil. Personally, I'm not going to run my oil for 25,000 miles, but if you get the analysis back that says the oil is still as good as new, why change it?

The other benefit about the oil analysis is... you can tell BEFORE you're engine goes POOF if you have a problem that needs attention...


As for your underwear... Does your underwear actually filter your "exhaust"?

 

While I understand your point, who among us has time to both takin the oil out, sending it to a lab for analysis and getting it back - thats downtime, which I know my customers don't have the luxury of.

As for your underwear, why yes IMHO, it does

 

Switched to Motul 300V Power 5W40 with a Mobil1 oil filter.

Trying the Mobil1 filter to see if it makes any kind of difference to justify the $12.00.

My last oil change was with Mobil1. After 3k miles including one autocross weekend with lots of runs, the oil was fairly black and smelled a bit burnt. Going to see if there is a difference with Motul...same relative conditions 3k miles with one autox weekend event coming up.

The road/autox drivers that I know around here swear by Motul over Mobil1. My friend's shop has it by the barrel so I put it in last saturday.

Also switching to Motul RBF600 brake fluid before the next event.

Motul info is available at http://www.motul.com. This competition oil seems to be much more popular and available in Europe and Asia.

 

Mobil 1 5w30 mineral oil (non-synthetic) for the first 10k miles.

when I hit 10k, I'll switch over to Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic.

I always change just short of 3000 miles, never over.

I'll probably put Redline MTF in the tranny, and I haven't decided on what oil to put in the diff yet. I'll choose when the time comes.