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OS Giken Super-lock LSD Review

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Old 06-14-2010, 09:45 AM
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drivesolo
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Default OS Giken Super-lock LSD Review

I gotta start off saying that I am very impressed w/ the performance change of my car from this one modification. Whether it was the OS Giken LSD, going to a clutch-type LSD or just having something that grabbed better than the VLSD, getting power down coming out of the corners is mind-blowing now. So much was being left on the table by not being able to make good use of all the power the Z has on tap that I’m having to relearn the limits of the car since they are now beyond where I would’ve expected them to be before this mod.

I’ve had the diff has been on my car for nearly 4 weeks now. Couldn't really test it until this past weekend (work, family and/or weather haven’t been cooperating). On local streets I’ve pushed it around a few corners at about 6/10th (any more would’ve been irresponsible on my part). This past weekend I went to an AutoX practice day, co-driving w/ first350 so we could both adequately assess the improvement to the car from the LSD.

Prior to this LSD the only other LSD equipped 350Z I’ve driven to make a comparison with was first350’s SCCA AutoX Nationals trophy winning BSP Class car. His Z was equipped w/ a Cusco RS LSD 1.5 set to 80%. I’ve driven it on the street a few times and on a few AutoX runs. His Z was more modified than mine is currently which skews my understanding of how much benefit his LSD was giving in it’s overall performance, but it serves as the closest thing we know of for a comparison so I we've made our references to it.

OS Giken LSD:
- 28 plate clutch LSD
- 1.5 way
- set to 100% lock from OS Giken, can be configured for less upon special request.
- Motul SAE90 Mineral differential oil

First Impression:
Once I had the LSD installed into the pumpkin (see back-end build) I figured I would conduct a test to see how much break-away torque it would have when static. I took a few 3/8th bolts and 2 pieces of angle-iron each roughly 2 ft long. I set it up so I could push-pull by hand on the two opposing bars to make the stub axles rotate in opposite directions. Knowing that it takes roughly 20 ft-lbs for the VLSD I figured that it would be more, but I wanted to get and idea of how much more. In short, I was unable to get them to turn independently. A buddy came over the next day and only by both of us forcing the stub axles in opposite directions were we able to make them move independently. “Oh cr@p....”, I though, "this is gonna be like driving around w/ a welded diff". We estimated that it was about 100 ft-lbs to even get them to move, and this was when it was in the neutral position, under acceleration it would be much greater. Later on after contacting OS Giken, they said in the neutral position the lock should be about 100 N-m (~75 ft-lbs)

Street Impression:
After swapping out the VLSD pumpkin for the LSD equipped pumpkin, it I took it for it’s maiden drive. I was fully expecting wheel hop when pulling out of the driveway and turning onto the street. Nothing. Surely the inside wheel will skip a little or it’ll make some kinda noise as I head around the corner, I thought. Again, nothing. I drove mildly around my neighborhood for about 15 minutes making taking as many corners and turns as I could to see how it felt. I was surprised. There was not a hint of any type of excessive lock. No popping or clunking on throttle on or off. No inside wheel skipping, no humming or detectable differential noise during cruising at any speed. It felt exactly like the VLSD that it replaced. There was a hint of more effort to turn the wheel, but I don’t know if that is true or if my impression of LSD understeer at low speeds was a subconscious factor. The only time something occurred was when I took a low speed full steering wheel lock U-Turn. The inside wheel skipped a little, not a pleasant feel, but that was it. When I got back I immediately checked the temp of the diff housing w/ a I/R pyrometer. Around 100 F, ambient was mid-60’s. OS Giken said that a lot of that comes from normal heating due to the churning of the oil by the gears. Later on I was able to take it on the highway and as expected, no change.

The following week I was able to go through a local area that had a good amount of sweeping corners. In some places where I’ve squealed the inside tire before on corner exit, it was replaced w/ more forward push. I noticed that if you went through certain corners and did not “commit”, the inside wheel would hop slightly. But if you took the same corner at a slower speed, it would go around it nice and smooth. I never pushed it very hard but was impressed w/ how civil it was. After hearing the descriptions of how some guys described their clutch-type diffs when they transitioning from throttle on & off as the feeling of getting rear ended, I was very pleased w/ how mine felt. By comparison to the Cusco RS in first350’s Z, the OS Giken was better feeling and more civil. His had some popping noises when city driving and only really felt smooth when you drove it hard.

AutoX Impression:
Conditions: Dry, sunny, upper 50’s in the AM warming up to low 70’s in the afternoon.
Location: Sanderson Airfield, Shelton, WA
Course: Relatively fast, requiring 3rd gear for the Z (~75 mph top speed)
Runs: 20 (10 each)

Simply put; OUTSTANDING! A true LSD is what this car needs more than anything else. The open diff is essentially a joke, the VLSD just gets you some understanding of what this car needs, but having this LSD made me realize that there is so much potential in this car. For the autoX practice days that I’ve attended w/ this car (currently BSP class), I’ve never had the fastest time of the day. Actually, I wasn’t the fastest at this one either, first350 was. We were respectively 1st & 2nd for the day and we only ran in the AM. Even though first350 was over a second faster than me, the next car & driver combo (ironically first350 in a BSP class M3) was over ½ a second behind me.

Slalom speeds were so much faster and overall control when on the throttle was much improved. Accelerating into the fast portion of the course from a two sweeping corners really allowed the throttle to be held flat where as in the past it would have need modulation. When the back end would step out, it did it quicker than before but it was never unpredictable and it regained composure just as quickly.At the end of the fastest portion of the course, there was a hard braking zone coming out of a sweeping corner. On a two occasions I recalled getting a hint of rear end squirm for a split second just prior to downshifting, but the car never felt out of control and I don’t think it had any effect on my times. The car was better planted in every corner. I was hoping it would help improve rotation but the same amount of understeer is still there. I was surprised how much the LSD made a difference in just about every situation. First350 shared the same feelings and commented on how the OS seemed to proportion it’s amount of lock better than his Cusco. We were both in agreement that the overall improvement was probably good for somewhere between 1-2 seconds over my setup w/ the stock VLSD.

Unfortunately I was not able to get a differential housing temperature readings. I’m certain that it was worked much harder than at a typical autoX since it was run back-to-back for about 5 consecutive runs and never sat idle for longer than 30 minutes. It never overheated to the point where it started to leak from the oil seals or display any unsmooth operation while driving back to the grid. After the last run of the day, it was a bit more audible (some popping, slight clunking) when driving around to the pits to park.


Service:
After the event I ran a few errands and I noticed that the diff was making a bit more noise than before. I would hear an occasional pop, and notice some wheel hop in a few corners. Although the recommendation from OS is that you can use the LSD right away for track or autoX, they recommended an oil change after my first event or around 300 miles. By the time I got home, I had hit 300 miles exactly. I changed the oil, which was actually easier than changing the engine oil. I took it out for a test drive and the diff felt as good as new. I drove it around the same path as my first test of it, doing the same things that I did that day and it was as smooth as the first day I installed it.


Track Impression:
The earliest I’ll be able to take the car down to one of the local tracks (Pacific Grand Prix) is on June 30th. I should be able to get a definitive measure of how much faster the car is now based on my best time there (1:14.74). I’ll update this post once I have data.


Overall Impression:
Both first350 and I quite impressed w/ the results of this mod. If I had to start over again w/ a blank slate, I would go w/ this OS Giken LSD before suspension. Installation was a simple as long as you know a few things in advance. The tolerances they had matched the OEM LSD exactly to w/ in 0.001 (maybe better). The LSD seems to be robust for performance use, this car needs something like this to bring out it’s potential. It’s perfect for daily driving use. Initially I was concerned w/ getting a car that sounded and felt a little “broken” but no longer have any concerns. Over time I know that my rear street tires will wear faster and they already wear out faster than the fronts anyways.

IMO OS Giken put together a truly quality product here. I read good reviews from the BMW forums prior to deciding on it over other available LSDs for the Z and felt like it was worth a try. OS Giken claims that the Super-lock diff can be driven on cars for over 200k miles before needing a rebuild. While I’m sure hard driving, AutoX and track days will be a factor in it’s longevity, I’m looking forward to seeing if I can reach that point.

Last edited by drivesolo; 06-14-2010 at 04:17 PM.
Old 06-14-2010, 09:57 AM
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JasonZ-YA
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dammn straight!
Old 06-14-2010, 10:01 AM
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03threefiftyz
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Great review!
Old 06-14-2010, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Great review!
+1

Thanks for the review!
Old 06-14-2010, 10:19 AM
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JasonZ-YA
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Info request:

Rear final drive gear ratio ???? stock 3.5 m/t
OEM rear diff bushings? or solid?

-J
Old 06-14-2010, 12:27 PM
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I want one
Old 06-14-2010, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Info request:

Rear final drive gear ratio ???? stock 3.5 m/t
OEM rear diff bushings? or solid?

-J
- 2007 Base Manual, 3.5 FD
- Stock bushings but they only have about 500 miles on them since the pumpkin was removed w/ only 200 miles on it soon after the car was purchased.
Old 06-14-2010, 04:39 PM
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terrasmak
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I'm going to have to say mine is a bit more clunky, i have 2400 miles on it so far and 4 days on the race track. I need to change the fluid, its in the garage ready to go, see how it is after. Also my diff bushings are solid, and the subframe has whiteline bushings.
Old 06-14-2010, 04:57 PM
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I have yet to track w/ mine yet, but after 1500 miles the slow clunky wheel hop is pretty apparent - I swapped fluids from the motul 75 90 to the 75 140 smurf fluid then added a little friction inhibitor - and this thing is pretty damn quiet now - totally a night and day difference. When track day comes it was suggested to me though to do another fluid swap to irradicate the the additive as running w/ this in a extended performance enviorment might lead to premature wear and possibly unexpected results....As for now, couldnt be happier.
Old 06-15-2010, 08:41 AM
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I own that particular BSP 350Z now, and I must say, that Cusco is one noisy sonofabitch. On-Track performance is awesome, but it pops and clunks and sounds like it's gonna explode, and every time I drive it to the local grocery store little old ladies stand back in fear. And moderate speed cornering on twisty roads causes directional change and constant steering correction every time I change throttle position, which is kind of annoying. Glad to hear you are pleased with the OS Giken, I have been curious about it. Maybe I will give it a shot!

Tell Peter I said howdy....
Old 06-15-2010, 10:28 AM
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drivesolo
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^ LOL! It's nice to hear that his old Z is still alive and kicking. He still talks fondly about it. He told me that he misses it even more now since this past weekend of driving my car. He had that car dialed in pretty well, all it needed was a BBK and it could've been a Time Attack worthy machine.
Old 06-15-2010, 12:36 PM
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Great review! My next mod is an LSD, and the only thing I've been worried about is having the tail fling out excessively and the car sounding like it's got grenades between the wheels during daily driving. Looks like I might have to snag one of these! I'm going to be using my car as my Daily Driver / AutoX / Drift / Track day car, so I'm glad that this diff looks like it can handle the job civilly!
Old 07-07-2010, 01:33 PM
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I finally got around to taking the day off and going down to Pacific GP to test out my LSD on the track. The results were "interesting" to say the least.

My previous best time at PGP prior to the LSD was 1.14.74. With the LSD... 1.14.20. Setup was exactly the same, the only difference was the LSD.

My previous fast time was set on a day where ambient air temp was in the low-60's. Today the ambient temp was in the upper-80's. The heat made a significant difference. Brake fade came in a lot sooner than expected, after the 1st session brake feel was always a little compromised but the one thing I could guarantee was that the pedal would progressively get longer and longer after the first 2 hot laps. In total I did three(3) 15 minute sessions. My fastest time was set in my first session. As the day go hotter my times kept getting slower. Tires gave up a lot sooner than I would have expected (NT01's). Significant rubber migration and graining on all 4 of them.

By just going off of the straight time, it looks like this latest mod has little improvement for track use. But where I compare my performance to other known driver/car times, it shows things differently. Two driver/car (an Elise and an S2K) that were in my run group and both guys had their standing best times of 1:12.XX (I know the drivers).

Elise:
Session 1: Kept pace w/ him for the whole session
Session 2: Kept pace w/ him for most of the session expect for the last 2 laps when my brakes were too heat soaked then trailed off.
Session 3: Did not see him on track

S2K:
Session 1: Did not see him on track
Session 2: Kept pace w/ him for most of the session expect for the last 2 laps when my brakes were too heat soaked then trailed off.
Session 3: Exceeded his pace w/ him carrying a passenger for about 4 laps until I intentionally pulled off to to cool my brakes by driving through the pits. Got reinserted but didn't get the opportunity to turn a hot lap before the end of the session

How much faster would the car be if I could have run under the same conditions as when I set my previous fast lap? I can't say. But it seems that by going off of relative comparisons, my Z is definitely faster.

The need to get on the throttle as early as possible is more important now. Before the LSD I would intentionally cause the inside wheel to spin when exiting some corners to cause the VLSD to grip harder. When I did that the increased engine RPMs would help when regaining grip on the drive wheels. But now that the back is essentially locked on corner exit under throttle, coming out of slow corners is requiring a different line and/or making me reconsider my gear choice. The Backend steps out more dramatically than before, but comes back-in line quick. Car stays well planted through the corners.

Drove the car home soon after my last session, LSD is still smooth and quite. Once again I forgot to measure the pumpkin's temperature or even take a look at the back when I was in the pits, but it must've gotten really hot. Before writing this I checked the diff housing and it was at ~120F, nearly 2 hours after my last session. The diff housing looks clean, but it seems that there is some oil on the subframe and on the driver's side that has dripped down onto the exhaust. From what I can tell there is no oil leaking from the oil seals or around the coverplate. I'll have to get the car on stands to see what's going on. My guess it's oil coming out of the breather tube because the oil may have boiled over.

Last edited by drivesolo; 07-07-2010 at 01:42 PM.
Old 09-06-2010, 03:16 PM
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Bigalow
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Did either of you with the OS Giken change out the seals and bearing? I'm about to purchase an OS Giken but I need a little more info on the stuff I'll need 1st.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:41 AM
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drivesolo
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I only had 500 miles on the pumpkin I used so they were essentially new. I've put almost 3k miles on it so far, a few autoX's and a couple of track days and I've got no problems w/ the diff. Still as smooth as the day I first installed it, no noise or any signs of oil leaking from the seals.

The only thing I would recommend is an oil cooler or the Nismo cooling cover plate since the oil seems to boil over and ends up coming out of the breather tube and ending up on my exhaust. This only happens during track days not during autoX.

Last edited by drivesolo; 09-07-2010 at 07:52 PM.
Old 09-07-2010, 10:22 AM
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Same dif in mine with the Nismo cover and have had no boilover problems on the track.
Old 09-07-2010, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Same dif in mine with the Nismo cover and have had no boilover problems on the track.
That's good news. I also ordered the NISMO diff cover for my OS Giken.

What fluid are you using?
Old 09-07-2010, 08:00 PM
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Update: I did a lapping day at PGP last month, the weather was cooler than the first test of the diff, mid 70's, low 80's by the end of the AM session, same setup. I was able to get a 1:13.34 (vs. 1:14.74 pre-LSD). Same set-up, just cooler weather. Once I can get to PGP when the weather is in the 60's again then I can make an accurate comparison to the performance improvement of the diff.
Old 09-07-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigalow
That's good news. I also ordered the NISMO diff cover for my OS Giken.

What fluid are you using?
Amsoil , 75w140
Old 12-07-2010, 05:12 PM
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Got the OS Giken installed on my car last week and am experiencing some strange issues w/ the ABS while braking at low speeds on the street.

When I brake say from about 50mph down to about 20mph no problem, but at that point the brake pedal starts pulsating like the ABS is being activated. Its odd that it only happens at the slower speeds. My car has the 4.08 gears, StopTech BBK front and stock non-brembo rears.

Could it be that having racing brake pads on the front and street pads on the rear is reaking havoc on the ABS?

Anyone have similar issues? Advice?


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