This is a post im making after finally getting all the money i needed to start getting serious and get onto the track

Okay, The mods i have...

2003 performance model with stillen true dual exhaust
injen cold air converted to short ram with RC2 filter
Tein basic "stock style" suspension
stillen slotted rotors w/ stainless brakelines Hawk hps pads
18" Racingharts w/ 265/40 and 245/40 Bridgestone R-11's -very sticky-

the problems i have...

Blown rear "stock style" tein dampner strut
creaking stock end links and damaged front nismo sway "from accident"
Broken Sway bar bracket "front right"
clicking axles
misaligned toe on rear wheels from dropping 2.0" w/ stock spring buckets
heavy rear and front body roll
blown rear diff bushing
silicone streak that looks similar to blown diff bushing thats dripping from above and in front of diff somewhere "rear subframe bushings?" -

The mods i ordered...

Quaife 1.5 LSD w/ 4.083 gears
Spl rear diff bushings
Motordyne sways w/ SPL endlinks and new bracket/bushings
Tanabe 4 point underbrace "for under cats"
Eibach 25mm spacers -rear / 20mm spacers -front
stillen headers and high flow cats
5/16th spacer motordyne
utec is next - "good choice for me?"


Heres what im looking for, need some help with direction

Looking for a coilover setup up to eliminate stock style suspension and go true coilover,

interested in a aggressive stance daily driver with adjustability for some track time performance adjustments

heres what i've learned I need so far to get a track worthy suspension

4 new coilovers
adjustable toe arm -
rear camber arm -
front A arms -

Im leaning towards kinetix for all the arms and stance gr+ for coilovers

Will these compliment my set up?
-Does stance work well for my mods?
-are stance coilovers better for drifting?
-street driving i would prefer a stiffer ride
-looking for a Z with aggressive cornering and tight turn in


Is there something else i need to fix?
-Rear subframe bushings?
-Rear upper knuckle? wtf is that?
-front lower control arm?
-time to roll fenders?

 

You should just make your suspension modifications out of the SPL lineup

I recently ordered the:
1. Front Upper A-Arms
2. Rear Midlink (OEM Style Coilover Setup)
3. Eccentric Lockout Kit

I know that you can purchase the rest of the parts that you need.
i.e. Rear camber arms toe arms (if you are TRUE Coilover Setup) and all the other bushings you need

In my opinion, the solid bushings and spherical bushings are the way to go, so that you will not have the compressed or busted bushings (though VERY easy to replace) with stock and urethane style bushings.

Just my opinion, so I would go to www.splparts.com and look at their lineup, though more expensive, it will be worth it!

I contacted Kuah from SPL and he gave me a killer price!

 

Kenitix arms have had problems if you search. I would run Megan before Kenetix, but SPL is so much better. True coilovers are nice, you will need the arm that replaces the spring bucket if you do an aggressive drop, you will still need the camber arms and if you track your car you will need the front arms to set your needed camber.

 

The new kinetic arms are fine, they have been revised from the V1 design.

https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html

-J

 

Stance coil overs are a nice choice, you'll be fine, based on what your wanting to do.

-Rear subframe bushings:
if you want to while your changing the spl solid diff bushings you can also do the subframe ones - up to you:


- rear upper knuckle:
???? ya, dont know what your talking about there unless you thinking you want to replace the rear knuckle shock mount bushing as you are going true coilovers

if so, then i would recommend that. Spl or whiteline sell the rear coilover to knuckle bushing.

- Front lower control arm:
if your thinking bushings, then look here at either whiteline or spl:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293650-post23.html

-time to roll fenders:
- I would say so depending on your track wheels, height, etc...

-J

 

i just pm'd you.. call pete at Intense Motorsports.. they did my car and have great deals.. worth the call !

 

they are nice (i have them on my ride), adjusting them is a pain in the ***.

 

im lost as to why it was hard for you??

Ive adjusted them before.....its simple,

Jack up the car, leave the wheels on a let the wheels hang, get a goose neck wrench and remove the nut at the spindle mount. the goose neck is what makes it easy as it clears the fenders....then from there a small adjustable wrench will loosen the jam nut and from there spin 360 degrees to required direction.

reinstall nut with goose neck wrench and done.

-J

 

some like these, with a high offset neck...If i remember right, its a 21mm???? you can buy the single wrench at sears that you need for about 15-20 bucks probably..


-J