Resurfacing Aftermarket Flywheel
many could argue that the 1 piece unit, without any riveting/bolting to the friction material, is better as anytime hardware is involved, there is a chance it came come loose...and if that happens, kiss your trans goodbye (I've seen it happen more than once during track days). That being said, either setup is long established and should give trouble free operation if installed or resurfaced correctly in the first place
All flywheels can be resurfaced by someone who knows what they are doing. Stock DMF, aluminum flywheel inserts, steel flywheels. I also agree with Z1 on the aluminum flywheels being somewhat problematic. more then the insert comming out, I think the biggest problem is the insert warping up or the pressure plate bolt holes stripping out. Also, it always seems like the hardcore muti-disk race clutches all use solid steel flywheels. Usually made of a 4140 or stronger steel. Ex: Os giken or crower.
However, I make a 13" diesel sled pulling tripple disk clutch and have a guy running it with 2,400lbs of torque in his Dodge. The 4140 steel flywheel has a bronze insert and held down by 24 rivets, no issues, but only 6,000 RPM.
However, I make a 13" diesel sled pulling tripple disk clutch and have a guy running it with 2,400lbs of torque in his Dodge. The 4140 steel flywheel has a bronze insert and held down by 24 rivets, no issues, but only 6,000 RPM.
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