I know there's tons of threads on this, but i've searched and can't really find what i'm tyring to ask.

Is there any real difference between ecu reset methods?

- just disconnecting the battery for 30+ minutes
- disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake to discharge capacitors
- doing the formal method of turning on/off, waiting 7 seconds, depressing the gas for 10 seconds...etc. (that method)

Do they all essentially do the same thing, or is one better than the next?

 

Good question. I'd like to know the answer as well.

I believe these 2 methods are combined into one though:

- just disconnecting the battery for 30+ minutes
- disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake to discharge capacitors

 

Well I tried the "disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake" method, but I didn't feel any difference from before.

Nothing on the good ol' butt dyno either. RPM's are the same, idle is the same.

So I may try the actual step by step process over the weekend with the throttle adjustment. Course, maybe nothing needed to be done in the first place. I just remember my car having a lot more bite in the past. Could be the stock clutch and 80,000 miles though...

 

Just for anyone who may be interested. Here is a condensed version of the timed method for resetting the ECU. That one can get very, very finicky, and it can get extremely frustrating if you don't get the timing right and have to start all over. I can't remember where I found this one, but it doesn't get nearly enough circulation. It does the same thing as the finicky one, but is MUCH easier to perform reliably.

Here you go:

[Timing is not as critical with this method - no stop watch needed. Just count in your head (one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc) ... or just use a stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7]

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...procedures.pdf

 

Either 1 works. For more peace of mind, the complete pedal method should recalibrate your throttle. You won't feel any difference in power unless something was wrong with your car beforehand.

 

just did my ecu reset last night.
guess those years of drumming helped my coordination because I got it right on the 1st shot without a stopwatch.

butt dyno feels like there's a little more pull on the low end, and it does feel smoother to redline, but maybe it's just my sense of accomplishment making me feel good...

nonetheless, i'll keep track of my gas and any other changes to see if it truly did anything.

 

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my ecu occasionally turns on, and I usually have no problems turning it off. It always comes up as 'minimum threshold to manifolds' (four of them) and shouldn't be a big deal. Happened after I put on headers...BUT HERE'S THE IMPORTANT PART:

I went to turn it off after it came back on. It has been two months since it came on, no mods or ANYTHING done to car. Instead of blinking the appropriate amount of times, after the whole depress and release the gas 5x, it slowly blinked 5x, and went solid again. This kept happening, so is there something seriously wrong now? I vaguely remember reading this was a horrible sign somewhere on some thread on some forum...

 

have you tried doing it again? CEL light stays on if you don't do it correctly...so i've read.