Purchased a '08 Base model 350z 6MT in May 2010.

In a straight-line path, I decided to heavy accelerate the car while in 3rd. After hitting about 3k RPM, the engine sounds like it slips and ends up over-revving. I searched a few posts on google to see if it was a possible clutch worn-out but wanted to double-check. I don't detect any differences in free-play of the clutch, nor does it feel like the clutch is harder to engage.

Bottom line is, in any gear, hard accelerating puts my engine in a sort of neutral mode, where the wheels do not move with the engine. What seems to be the problem?

 

Clutch slip.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. As for clutch slipping, do I end up replacing the entire clutch transmission?

Also, I noticed that my Speedometer had been damaged in the process. After the clutch slippage, I noticed my MPH readings were off. Beginning from take off to 1st gear, the speedometer would remain at 0 MPH until I hit ~10 MPH. Then the speedometer begins reading correctly; it's as if it lags.

 

Agree. How many miles om the car? Sounds like typical clutch slipping. RPM reaches a point where clutch pressure plate will no longer hold flywheel.

NOTE: Generally members will replace the clutch and flywheel at same time. If the friction surface of the pressure plate is worn, most likely it is wearing the flywheel.

 

I purchased the car in 2010 with 22k-ish miles; as of now, it currently has 27,000 miles. In fact, I'm actually reassured I found out what the problem was; the mechanics over the phone told me he never heard of such problems. Quick question though, is the clutch slippage relevant to my speedometer?

 

Shift into 6th gear going about 20 and floor it to WOT. If RPM's rise but the car does not accelerate you need a new clutch.

 

Bad news, 6th gear does not accelerate as you mentioned. Well, I'll take my car to the dealer and get it replaced; sucks it's not under warranty. But, I appreciate the help I received, thanks!

 

i recommend local mechanic shop rather than dealership

 

Odd enough, the problem went away after leaving the car in my garage for a few hours. I guess I'm off the hook today; if things get any worse, I'll be sure to drop it by the mechanic shop

And for gratitude, what's a good post without any pictures?

 

Could not agree more. The OEM dual mass flywheel is complicated but driver friendly. You can mimic the OEM feel with aftermarket clutch-flywheel. And it will cost half as much.

 

With respect you have a clutch problem that will not get better on its own.

 

i have the exact same year, model, tranny, color, mileage, and clutch problem as you.

weird.

 

Just don't go to these mechanics.

 

It's not always that bad. It's entirely possible the flywheel and pressure plate will be OK, and only the clutch disc (which has the friction material bonded to it) will need to be replaced.

The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel. Both parts have smooth hard surfaces that contact the clutch disc. The friction material is on the disc, which is connected to the transmission shaft.




If you continue to drive the car after it starts slipping, you'll almost certainly ruin the flywheel and pressure plate. Get it fixed NOW.

The friction material on the clutch disc works best when it's near normal temperature. It heats up quickly when it slips, and that'll make it slip worse. It'll work OK after it cools, and it'll start to slip again if you drive the car hard. It's similar to brake fade.

 

Driveline probs going away on their own FTW!? But, sadly, not likely...go to local, but def not those guys that said theyd never heard of it! Lolololol

 

Very much agreed (Sadly enough it was a big Nissan Dealership). To the comments above, I had planning on leaving it be, however it sounds like it's not that smart of an idea after learning more about the flywheel and clutch plate. It just ails me to know that I abused my car someway/somehow.