Well, I started my car, it turns on fine, ran for about a minute while i warmed her up, then sputters and dies.

Second time, starts up again, runs for acouple of seconds, sputters sooner dies.

3-8th Time trying to start her, runs for a split second and dies.

Finally, I got her running, again, sputter a little bit. Doesn't dies. And then idle smoothes out like normal.


Sounds like a fuel related problem to me? Bad gas, dirty gas? FPR, fuel pump, or fuel strainer, filter?

I read my chilton, and the fuel pump, strainer, filter, and FPR. All are incorporated in one module... So I would have to replace all, which I don't mind, but it SOO EXPENSIVE.

What do you guys think?

 

any mods on the car?

if it's cold it will be leaner. generally a cold start is going to be slightly leaner due to air temps. Hence the reason for a "choke" on vehicles.

Could be dirty injectors causing it to not get enough fuel. We don't really have a fuel filter per se but more of a screen. Not likely for it to clog. I'd go for injectors, maybe even worn out plugs or a vac leak.

We're going to need more info on this car.

i see vortech so i'm guessing it has a tune of some sort. Your start enrichment table is probably screwed up.

 

Ahh my mod list is extensive... I need to update my Sig. Here we go.

Car has 110 k miles. Been sitting, @ 4 months. I just replace the engine with a lower mileage engine and also a transmission. During this time, I also replace alot of parts here we go.
2005 Engine
2006 Transmission
F1 Flywheel
Exedy Clutch
HR Headers
HR testpipes
Unorthodox CP
MD Intake Spacer
Armamid Intake Gasket
Removed Oil Warmer & TB Warmer Line. Cooland Line Weld Shut.
External Oil Cooler
SFR Exhaust
Vortech Full KIT ( BELT IS NOT ON, Vortech Fuel Set Up, fuse not in AUX Pump)


Well, alittle background, I replace the engine and transmission. It runs fine, however I havn't push it, since I am still breaking in my Clutch. I have been driving the car for about 500 miles now for the first time.
I am running Castrol 0-30 european synthetic (always have), the car has new plugs, pcv valve. The car was fully warm up, but I went to class for about 3 hours. Then when I went out to start it up is when it happen. Vacuum gauges reads at 20-22.

 

How would I go about cleaning the injectors? As mention my car has alot of miles (110). I was expecting the fuel pump assembly(filter, strainer, FPR). Injectors not out the question either. However all the little maintaince stuff I replace when I swap engines.

As mentioned, I am still breaking in my clutch so no tune. Vortech kit is the full kit, with the FMU and AUX pump. However the belt is not on. And the AUX Fuel Pump fuse is out.

I will be installing a Fuel Pressure gauge tom. What is optimal pressure at idle?

I do have a CEL, but it came on about a week ago, for my testpipes. One may be leaking.

 

you can pay DW or RC about 20$ an injector to clean them or buy new ones. Considering you are running a vortech i would buy bigger injectors and run those instead. DW 440's work nicely.

also, the base tune on the SS box (or unichip) is designed for the vortech to be installed and working in order for the base tune to work properly.

Like i said, sounds tune related. it's either too rich or too lean on cold startup. Not much to adjust on the SS box for cold startup which is why i ditched it. My guess is 110k miles on injectors they would be pretty worn out and could cause issues. The fuel pump/basket is going to work the same on cold start up or hot start up. If anything they start to lose performance as they heat up.

Just because your vac gauge reads 20-22 doesn't mean there isn't a leak. Check all connections.

 

Well its been over a weak now and the problem hasnt come back.

Fuel pressure shows a healthy 62psi.

I still plan to get the injectors clean for now, upgrade from the ss box and injectors later when I get the chance after the holidays.

I check for vaccuum leaks after I swap the engine in, but I'll check again.

Ill report back if the problem arises.

 

fuel pressure is too high. stock pressure is 3.5 bar which is around 52psi. if you aren't in boost and just idling your boost should be stock pressure since the vortech FMU does'nt adjust anything until you're under boost pressure.

 

I checked my fuel pressure via my Chilton and they specfications for fuel pressure was 53-63psi. Let me double check again. Thanks for replying

 

i'd go by a nissan service manual before a chilton

 

see attached

 

Thanks for the additional info. SO is my FPR going bad?

 

not sure. i have no idea how those returnless FPR's work. I'm not sure if they restrict pressure or increase it. If i knew how it works then i could tell you how it would act if it was failing.

Are you FI? If so then i'd just spend 300$ and get a cjm stage 0 return system. It removes the factory FPR and changes it to a return fuel system.

 

ya, vortech, i just noticed again after i sent the reply.

could be an issue with your FPR or it could be something with the vortech FMU. A cjm stage 0 will completely remove all that vortech BS crap and make things simpler.

i'm not sure what a stock FPR costs but I'm at home for the weekend and can grab my factory one for you. You pay shipping and i'll send it to you to test it. If it fixes your issue you can just paypal me a fair price on a used one and you'll be fixed. If not then mail it back.

 

is the fuel pump that you pulled the fuse for an inline booster pump cause if so it may be restricting the fuel flow with the fuse pulled out. i had a similar problem with my car, although i do not have the amount of mods that you have i do have a walboro 255 in tank so i immediate assumed that it was fuel pump related seeing as that was something i had tampered with, but make sure your security light goes out when you switch the ignition on, mine ended up being a NATS malfunction the chip in my key was crapping out. replaced the key and i havent had any problems since. the only difference was mine wouldnt even attempt to fire seeing as the ignition was disabled, it would just crank and crank. another thing that i just thought of is that the fuel pump may be bleeding off residual fuel pressure which can cause a difficult or longer start time.

 

by the way if the fuel aux fuel pump is an inline fuel pump, and you are still running a return line system, the additional fuel pump shouldnt increase fuel pressure, just volume unless it was pumping more fuel than the regulator can allow by.

 

the inline fuel pump isn't restricting flow. With the fuse in it's not on until after 5psi on an SS box setup anyways.