Blown Subframe Diff. Bushing
12-15-2010 | 01:49 PM
#41
12-15-2010 | 02:22 PM
#42
As Neal said, I am NOT happy with my SPL solid bushings for a street car. I have a stock diff and it whines like crazy on decel or steady speed. The only time it gets a little quieter is during acceleration (since the gear faces are worn in). They do remove the mushy on/off throttle feeling that I used to have but that is really the only positive.
I can also still get the car to wheel hop. It has slightly reduced the tendency to wheel hop but in no way have the solid bushings eliminated it. My 28 M/T DRs on 15 inch wheels eliminate the wheel hop completely.
If I had to do it again I would try injecting something into the stock mount or actually consider replacing the while rear subframe to replace the rear bushing. The front ones are a non issue and my stockers were perfect before we removed them. It's really that annoying. I do have a quiet exhaust, so that probably amplifies it more.
I can also still get the car to wheel hop. It has slightly reduced the tendency to wheel hop but in no way have the solid bushings eliminated it. My 28 M/T DRs on 15 inch wheels eliminate the wheel hop completely.
If I had to do it again I would try injecting something into the stock mount or actually consider replacing the while rear subframe to replace the rear bushing. The front ones are a non issue and my stockers were perfect before we removed them. It's really that annoying. I do have a quiet exhaust, so that probably amplifies it more.
12-15-2010 | 09:20 PM
#44
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,335
Likes: 5
From: Georgia
Another possibility is to cut away the rubber on the aft end of the mount, leaving a ridge where it's bonded to both metal parts. Then get some short pieces of air hose, bend them into rings, and drive them into the space. The air hose will be tougher than other fillers, and the inside and outside ridges will keep the rings from coming out as the mount flexes.
12-16-2010 | 01:45 AM
#45
12-16-2010 | 01:56 AM
#46
wheel hop is a function of many things. No single part is a cure all once you start getting to a certain power level. Slicks add a whole other level into the mix as well.
As for the noise, if you've opened that pumpkin, or it's been opened previously for install of gears, whether they are 3.3 for the big turbo guys, or 3.9/4.08 for the NA guys, that is where the noises tend to come from. Setting the lash up is critical, and while alot of places claim they can do it correctly, it is time consuming. Stock rubber bushings will isolate it better, but a solid bushing will reveal if it was done less than perfectly.
I didn't build the rear in my car, it was done for me by a customer (LSD/gear stuff is basically all he does). A ton of custom parts to make it all work. I have the solids in my car, and my previous setup had stock bushings, and a rear that was done locally (3.9 + Cusco LSD). That rear always whined, because the lash was never set up correctly by the installer. I just dealt with it, but it was annoying. Now with the new pumpkin, I have the solid bushings, new ring and pinion, switched to a Quaife LSD, and zero noise.'
Install wise, like anything else, YMMV. I haven't found it too much of a struggle, but having the right tools is key
As for the noise, if you've opened that pumpkin, or it's been opened previously for install of gears, whether they are 3.3 for the big turbo guys, or 3.9/4.08 for the NA guys, that is where the noises tend to come from. Setting the lash up is critical, and while alot of places claim they can do it correctly, it is time consuming. Stock rubber bushings will isolate it better, but a solid bushing will reveal if it was done less than perfectly.
I didn't build the rear in my car, it was done for me by a customer (LSD/gear stuff is basically all he does). A ton of custom parts to make it all work. I have the solids in my car, and my previous setup had stock bushings, and a rear that was done locally (3.9 + Cusco LSD). That rear always whined, because the lash was never set up correctly by the installer. I just dealt with it, but it was annoying. Now with the new pumpkin, I have the solid bushings, new ring and pinion, switched to a Quaife LSD, and zero noise.'
Install wise, like anything else, YMMV. I haven't found it too much of a struggle, but having the right tools is key
12-16-2010 | 04:22 AM
#47
As Neal said, I am NOT happy with my SPL solid bushings for a street car. I have a stock diff and it whines like crazy on decel or steady speed. The only time it gets a little quieter is during acceleration (since the gear faces are worn in). They do remove the mushy on/off throttle feeling that I used to have but that is really the only positive.
I can also still get the car to wheel hop. It has slightly reduced the tendency to wheel hop but in no way have the solid bushings eliminated it. My 28 M/T DRs on 15 inch wheels eliminate the wheel hop completely.
If I had to do it again I would try injecting something into the stock mount or actually consider replacing the while rear subframe to replace the rear bushing. The front ones are a non issue and my stockers were perfect before we removed them. It's really that annoying. I do have a quiet exhaust, so that probably amplifies it more.
I can also still get the car to wheel hop. It has slightly reduced the tendency to wheel hop but in no way have the solid bushings eliminated it. My 28 M/T DRs on 15 inch wheels eliminate the wheel hop completely.
If I had to do it again I would try injecting something into the stock mount or actually consider replacing the while rear subframe to replace the rear bushing. The front ones are a non issue and my stockers were perfect before we removed them. It's really that annoying. I do have a quiet exhaust, so that probably amplifies it more.
wheel hop is a function of many things. No single part is a cure all once you start getting to a certain power level. Slicks add a whole other level into the mix as well.
As for the noise, if you've opened that pumpkin, or it's been opened previously for install of gears, whether they are 3.3 for the big turbo guys, or 3.9/4.08 for the NA guys, that is where the noises tend to come from. Setting the lash up is critical, and while alot of places claim they can do it correctly, it is time consuming. Stock rubber bushings will isolate it better, but a solid bushing will reveal if it was done less than perfectly.
I didn't build the rear in my car, it was done for me by a customer (LSD/gear stuff is basically all he does). A ton of custom parts to make it all work. I have the solids in my car, and my previous setup had stock bushings, and a rear that was done locally (3.9 + Cusco LSD). That rear always whined, because the lash was never set up correctly by the installer. I just dealt with it, but it was annoying. Now with the new pumpkin, I have the solid bushings, new ring and pinion, switched to a Quaife LSD, and zero noise.'
Install wise, like anything else, YMMV. I haven't found it too much of a struggle, but having the right tools is key
As for the noise, if you've opened that pumpkin, or it's been opened previously for install of gears, whether they are 3.3 for the big turbo guys, or 3.9/4.08 for the NA guys, that is where the noises tend to come from. Setting the lash up is critical, and while alot of places claim they can do it correctly, it is time consuming. Stock rubber bushings will isolate it better, but a solid bushing will reveal if it was done less than perfectly.
I didn't build the rear in my car, it was done for me by a customer (LSD/gear stuff is basically all he does). A ton of custom parts to make it all work. I have the solids in my car, and my previous setup had stock bushings, and a rear that was done locally (3.9 + Cusco LSD). That rear always whined, because the lash was never set up correctly by the installer. I just dealt with it, but it was annoying. Now with the new pumpkin, I have the solid bushings, new ring and pinion, switched to a Quaife LSD, and zero noise.'
Install wise, like anything else, YMMV. I haven't found it too much of a struggle, but having the right tools is key
Confirm has your diff been opened, worked on????
looking at your previous threads, your boosted and built motor? is the diff upgraded to an LSD?
It seems as yours is a special case, something else is going on there obviously because like z1 stated, there are other things in play with your car so it seems???
Also, Ive installed at least 5 solid diff bushings, and driven in more 350z's with them. THEY DO NOT do as you describe, so im forced to feel the same way that something else isn't correct.........
OP, like others mentioned...there are not options...your bushing is blown! Solid diff bushings are the only replacement. all the crap ideas people are coming up with are Macgyver fixes, pointless/moot!
Stop worrying and handle up!
-J
12-16-2010 | 09:41 AM
#48
BriGuyMax,
Confirm has your diff been opened, worked on????
looking at your previous threads, your boosted and built motor? is the diff upgraded to an LSD?
It seems as yours is a special case, something else is going on there obviously because like z1 stated, there are other things in play with your car so it seems???
Also, Ive installed at least 5 solid diff bushings, and driven in more 350z's with them. THEY DO NOT do as you describe, so im forced to feel the same way that something else isn't correct.........
OP, like others mentioned...there are not options...your bushing is blown! Solid diff bushings are the only replacement. all the crap ideas people are coming up with are Macgyver fixes, pointless/moot!
Stop worrying and handle up!
-J
Confirm has your diff been opened, worked on????
looking at your previous threads, your boosted and built motor? is the diff upgraded to an LSD?
It seems as yours is a special case, something else is going on there obviously because like z1 stated, there are other things in play with your car so it seems???
Also, Ive installed at least 5 solid diff bushings, and driven in more 350z's with them. THEY DO NOT do as you describe, so im forced to feel the same way that something else isn't correct.........
OP, like others mentioned...there are not options...your bushing is blown! Solid diff bushings are the only replacement. all the crap ideas people are coming up with are Macgyver fixes, pointless/moot!
Stop worrying and handle up!
-J
I have my original, completely untouched 3.5 VLSD rear diff. It's never been opened or worked on. My car has just over 60K miles and I've changed the diff fluid twice with Redline heavy duty shockproof oil (@ 30K and 60K).
12-16-2010 | 09:47 AM
#49
It's just hard for me to follow.......been in too many cars with solid diff bushings...hell i made my own and know them quite well....
https://my350z.com/forum/8448252-post13942.html
-J
12-16-2010 | 10:49 AM
#51
Have you checked for pinion play? with the drive shaft removed? wondering with your power if somethings up?
It's just hard for me to follow.......been in too many cars with solid diff bushings...hell i made my own and know them quite well....
https://my350z.com/forum/8448252-post13942.html
-J
It's just hard for me to follow.......been in too many cars with solid diff bushings...hell i made my own and know them quite well....
https://my350z.com/forum/8448252-post13942.html
-J
12-16-2010 | 11:19 AM
#52
This thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-subframe.html
he never explains how exactly he cracked it, but if done right, the odds of cracking it are slim....
I've installed 5 solid diff bushings now with my DIY- how to process in post 12 of my thread....
With DIY there are always risk, but if you take your time and do it right, etc then your golden......
-J
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...-subframe.html
he never explains how exactly he cracked it, but if done right, the odds of cracking it are slim....
I've installed 5 solid diff bushings now with my DIY- how to process in post 12 of my thread....
With DIY there are always risk, but if you take your time and do it right, etc then your golden......
-J
That was me
, and it was the result of trying to force a round peg into an almost -but not quite- round hole.I had read that it just required a lot of force sometimes so I thought I would just "man up" and force the issue. -With less than good results.
So if the bushing requires too much "motivation" grind out the hole until the bushing fits. Snug. (don't grind any more than is needed.)
BTW. I took a look at it a few weeks ago when I was changing the rear sway. Still looking good.
12-16-2010 | 12:07 PM
#53
^ thanks for chiming in!
I highly recommend that no one grind anything.......
just follow my how to i posted earlier in post 18:
https://my350z.com/forum/8838759-post18.html
post 12 of that thread has worked great!
-J
I highly recommend that no one grind anything.......
just follow my how to i posted earlier in post 18:
https://my350z.com/forum/8838759-post18.html
post 12 of that thread has worked great!
-J
12-16-2010 | 02:32 PM
#54
^ thanks for chiming in!
I highly recommend that no one grind anything.......
just follow my how to i posted earlier in post 18:
https://my350z.com/forum/8838759-post18.html
post 12 of that thread has worked great!
-J
I highly recommend that no one grind anything.......
just follow my how to i posted earlier in post 18:
https://my350z.com/forum/8838759-post18.html
post 12 of that thread has worked great!
-J
I never tried the lube trick, but if it feels like you are banging on the bushing too much and too hard, I would caution anyone from continuing lest they crack the subframe as I did.
12-17-2010 | 05:14 AM
#56
12-17-2010 | 05:32 AM
#57
12-17-2010 | 05:37 AM
#58
I personally wouldnt bother.......
if i ever have a problem (ie, broken Nismo diff cover stud) of any type, then I plan to get a 240sx double stud finned diff cover and modify the subframe to accept TWO solid diff bushings...
.jpg)
-J
12-17-2010 | 06:26 AM
#59
I would say thats moot.....but ya im sure it can help a wee bit...
I personally wouldnt bother.......
if i ever have a problem (ie, broken Nismo diff cover stud) of any type, then I plan to get a 240sx double stud finned diff cover and modify the subframe to accept TWO solid diff bushings...
-J
I personally wouldnt bother.......
if i ever have a problem (ie, broken Nismo diff cover stud) of any type, then I plan to get a 240sx double stud finned diff cover and modify the subframe to accept TWO solid diff bushings...
-J
12-17-2010 | 06:46 AM
#60
You can see my answer to that here:
Taken from here:
https://my350z.com/forum/8395178-post27.html
-J
well, my take is that the aggressive driving and poor Nissan design "for enthusiast".......most diffs have two mounts in the rear......Nissan's 240sx variants were two diff bushing studs into the subframe.........
the 350Z's single stud creates a 'moment' or some would understand a 'torque' off the centerline/driveline and that load can become quite great.........
Why the single stud??? NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness).........if you look at their previous two stud designs on a 'sports' car, they were synonymous with having NVH problems and later in time blowing sub frame bushings (240sx)...
The single stud is a great design for the daily driven Z...........but for us enthusiast its weak sauce...keeps the Z quiet and keeps subframe bushings intact for years.....Nissan allowed compliance into their system...
not helping is the fact that the front bushings become weak/compliant in time/age from holding up a heavy diff.......and under aggressive driving allow the diff to move,rock and twist on the front ear rubber bushings..........
The rear OEM diff bushing is solid rubber and filed with silicone to avoid creep from weight.......rubber cold form/elongation and tear drop affect of the bushing itself........
it blows and then your car drives like poo poo.....
-J
the 350Z's single stud creates a 'moment' or some would understand a 'torque' off the centerline/driveline and that load can become quite great.........
Why the single stud??? NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness).........if you look at their previous two stud designs on a 'sports' car, they were synonymous with having NVH problems and later in time blowing sub frame bushings (240sx)...
The single stud is a great design for the daily driven Z...........but for us enthusiast its weak sauce...keeps the Z quiet and keeps subframe bushings intact for years.....Nissan allowed compliance into their system...
not helping is the fact that the front bushings become weak/compliant in time/age from holding up a heavy diff.......and under aggressive driving allow the diff to move,rock and twist on the front ear rubber bushings..........
The rear OEM diff bushing is solid rubber and filed with silicone to avoid creep from weight.......rubber cold form/elongation and tear drop affect of the bushing itself........
it blows and then your car drives like poo poo.....
-J
https://my350z.com/forum/8395178-post27.html
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 12-17-2010 at 06:47 AM.