qirex

yeah...I have to echo fairlady Z's feelings.

12K spent on a car that now has NO warrantee is really ridiculous. My approach to modding is simple - buy a new car! I really wanted to supercharge my honda prelude - rather I bought a Z. Hopefully, by the time my Z lease is up, the Skyline GTR or 350ZTT will be out. Its impossible that those cars will be $12K more than a touring Z.

What I really want to do however is buy a piece of history, did you know you can get a ferrari 355 for under $60K? Thats what I have my eyes on now...If I'm gonna throw money away on a car...I'll do it the right way!

SlamMan

Damn guys. If you wanna get on your soap box go start your own thread and stop trying to jack this one.

FairladyZ

werd, unless you got money to throw away like my buddy. J/k!

Check out his website:
http://hometown.aol.com/wa2fst/home.htm

The blue vette on the left is being "twin turbo" as we speak. He is doing stage 3 turbos, so if he ever wants to he can drop a 427 in.

SlamMan

Almost forgot the best part you need. Blow off valve! AFAIK the kit doesn't come with one. You'll need to buy a flange from GReddy and have it welded on too. It's obviously best to do this before install.

Jumpman--Z

I'm not going to be getting a kit anytime soon, but I'm wondering, is any welding required to install the GReddy TT kit? I'm guessing there is, at least to connect a line to feed oil to the turbos. Also, does it come with instructions? Whenever I get the kit, which will probably be quite a few years from now, I'd like to do it myself.

SlamMan

The only welding should be the flange for the BOV to the charge pipe. The oil return line, if anything like other kits should just be a hole drilled in the oil pan with a flange bolted onto it. The instructions will probably suck but with help from everyone here it shouldn't be a problem to do it your self.

350Now

An oil pan in included with the Greddy kit that has the oil feed already ready to put a hose on.

Traffic

I would suggest you hold off on the install until you have a good reserve of cash available (~$5000 or more) in case something goes wrong. You wouldn't believe how problems come out of the woodwork sometimes. Installing a twin turbo system is not anything to be done on a budget.

As for install, call around and ask. SPI Power Excel is a good place to look into; they do top-flight work, but don't be surprised if your turbo kit install runs close to $3000. ATX Motorsports is another very good shop not too far away.

SlamMan

REALLY! Havn't heard that. Thats great if its true.

reallyredZ

If it is going to take about 20 hours for the install... Might as well put cams and P&P the heads. As I understand, porting a turbo'd motor allows more horsepower under lower boost levels. Is this correct? Like running 350 hp @ 2psi with p&p, as opposed to 350hp @ 7 regular. Of course P&P would cost alot, and I think anyone with some good mechanical abilities could probably do it. The only thing that scares me is tapping the oil pan.

SlamMan

Port and polish isn't as effective in a FI engine as an NA engine. The money spent on that would be better spent on other things.

Soul Hunter

Reading this thread has made me realize one thing - unless I buy a Z and intend to keep it for a very very very long time and consider it a project car, I won't be doing much to it beyond wheels and a few nismo like bolt on parts. $14k????? That's a lot of coin. Something in my "is it worth it" conscience wondering whether I could pull the trigger on paying roughly 50% of the price of the car to add power that I'll never truly be able to use. And that $14k doesn't even include the upgraded brakes I'm sure one would need to haul the Z back down to the speed limit. Tack on another $2k or so for that... There's gotta be a better way to go about this.

350trackz

Have a Track model, no brake upgrade needed other than slotted rotors if I wanna look cool.

As for the 14k, that is NOT install cost...labor cost is $1000 (12.5 hours). Here is a little insight:

$6500 - GReddy w/ intercooler
$1000 - install

$6500 - upgraded parts:

different ecu (no emanage)
fuel pump
heat wrap
clutch
full gauges
dyno tuning
plus alot of other stuff i can't remember right now (have it all written down at home).

I kinda validate it like this ... a 1996 TT 300zx would have cost about $44k new ... well, due to VPP, I saved a bundle on my Z, add the $14k, I spent the same amount as a 1996 300zx TT buyer did.

mcduck

Was wondering something about this statement (because I'm not intimately familiar with the world of turbos)...

I can see how a fatter exhaust will reduce your temp and produce bigger horsepower numbers...

But how does it allow the turbo to spool faster? This goes against the laws of Thermodynamics. You are pushing the same amount of spent gases through a larger diameter pipe. Hence the flow of the gas does not need to be as rapid for a comparable volume in a smaller diameter pipe. This is one of the reasons the gas from a smaller pipe becomes hotter.

I'm not refuting the statement... I'd just like a knowledgable explanation of how the turbo manages to spool faster since it seems counterintuitive to what I know about fluid (liquid or gas) dynamics.

FLY BY Z

Less resistance. The downpipe is after the turbo. The turbo is propelled by gasses ahead of it.

SlamMan

mcduck:

As you probably know the larger diameter exhaust reduces back pressure. The reduced back pressure allows exhaust exiting through the impellar side of the turbo to do so faster, Thus allowing the turbo to spool up to sooner.

jesseenglish

With aircooled turbo VW's we always ran small diameter before and large after. Smaller before the impeller forces the gasses to move faster and stay hot. While the larger diameter after allow the gasses to exit with less backpressure. We also had to use a ton of heat wrap to keep things cool in the engine bay.