Just another 600Z Magnum
Damn. All these ls swaps are making me condsider doing it earlier than expected. I just found a great deal on a complete LS2 with trans and everything for $1600. Maybe time to step up to your level now. The build looks amazing. Quality work right there.
Thanks for all the compliments! And for someone actually looking up the reference 
I got some decent work done and over came the fear of turning on the ignition to check electrical. I was certain it would burst into flames and burn down the great KC metro.
Anyhoo. Oil Accumulator is fully installed now.
And the ignition in the on position
On the downside, I was going to bleed the clutch tonight and I couldn't get any fluid to flow to the slave. Thought perhaps it needed to have the banjo fitting at the MC loosened to help bleed it and I noticed the threads were all stripped out. Not sure how since I put it on and I know I didn't torque it down much but regardless I've pulled the MC and I'm going to Helicoil it tomorrow....fun.
On an electrical note, the fans turn on when the ignition is on. I assume since they are still controlled by the Nissan ECU it's because it's in limp mode since there are not major sensors any longer. Any thoughts on a clever fix?
I got some decent work done and over came the fear of turning on the ignition to check electrical. I was certain it would burst into flames and burn down the great KC metro.Anyhoo. Oil Accumulator is fully installed now.
And the ignition in the on position
On the downside, I was going to bleed the clutch tonight and I couldn't get any fluid to flow to the slave. Thought perhaps it needed to have the banjo fitting at the MC loosened to help bleed it and I noticed the threads were all stripped out. Not sure how since I put it on and I know I didn't torque it down much but regardless I've pulled the MC and I'm going to Helicoil it tomorrow....fun.
On an electrical note, the fans turn on when the ignition is on. I assume since they are still controlled by the Nissan ECU it's because it's in limp mode since there are not major sensors any longer. Any thoughts on a clever fix?
Looks Great, Keep it up.
Well I got the MC all fixed hooked up and started to bleed it. The CSC is now leaking. My first thought was I must have not gotten the fittings entirely tight. But they're dry and it's coming from near the pressure plate from inside the CSC. So I'm going to likely have to pull the entire motor and trans....FML. So much for starting it this week.
I somehow managed to get the transmission out without pulling the entire drive train. Turns out I need to shim the CSC, my bad for not doing more installation research. Basically it's pushing itself all the way out and puking fluid out the end. An 1/8" shim will fix her right up.
On a positive note I've got the IAT bung welded in and the harness all modified for it. I've also got a good portion of the initial exhaust fully welded up and started fabbing the H-pipe section. This exhaust is going to be very very light, looking like about 12-13lbs total! Yes it's dual 3".
On a positive note I've got the IAT bung welded in and the harness all modified for it. I've also got a good portion of the initial exhaust fully welded up and started fabbing the H-pipe section. This exhaust is going to be very very light, looking like about 12-13lbs total! Yes it's dual 3".
Since i'm waiting on parts right now I wrapped up a few small items that needed to be done and shot a few more pics of some of the details I left out
The corvette gas pedal will not fit, no way no how in the oem location. I fabbed up a bracket to relocate it and with a few little bends to the GM pedal it fell into place. Feels okay for now but a road test will be the end all.
Here's the shifter. Because I apparently can't use a tape measurer I ended up having to bastardizing the first prototype. It's aweful looking but it works and fits.
IAT is bung is welded in and wired up.
Here's how I added the Nissan oil pressure sensor to the mix. It's a -8AN extension with a 1/8 npt port. It's typically used for fuel pressure testing but I think it will work well for this too.
And this is where the accumulator tees into the systems. This is directly after the oil cooler.
I'm going to run and get the rest of the fluids tonight and get everything topped off. Hopefully I can get a shim tomorrow and get the transmission back in.
Cheers!
The corvette gas pedal will not fit, no way no how in the oem location. I fabbed up a bracket to relocate it and with a few little bends to the GM pedal it fell into place. Feels okay for now but a road test will be the end all.
Here's the shifter. Because I apparently can't use a tape measurer I ended up having to bastardizing the first prototype. It's aweful looking but it works and fits.
IAT is bung is welded in and wired up.
Here's how I added the Nissan oil pressure sensor to the mix. It's a -8AN extension with a 1/8 npt port. It's typically used for fuel pressure testing but I think it will work well for this too.
And this is where the accumulator tees into the systems. This is directly after the oil cooler.
I'm going to run and get the rest of the fluids tonight and get everything topped off. Hopefully I can get a shim tomorrow and get the transmission back in.
Cheers!
In regards to the accessories, did you just have to relocate their placement, or have to purchase/fab brackets for them?
Nice progress too... can't wait to see some numbers from both you and Vas.
Nice progress too... can't wait to see some numbers from both you and Vas.
This seems impossible... that setup is usually going for ~$6K. Besides, in your FI thread you said you already had your LS motor.
Cass the brackets for the accessories was to make room for the intake. In the pictures you can see how the alternator sits up high on the corvette belt line and it directly in the way. So I flipped the PS and Alt around, and still managed to use the stock belt. I got all the hardware from Alper Motorsports. They had to modify their current brackets to work with the LS2 vett beltline but they were happy to do it.
In more depressing news, I filled the radiator last night only to find a leak from the back of the passenger side head/block line. It appears to be the head gasket but the fact that it's leaking with no pressure makes me very nervous. So I'm going to have to pull the intake and heads to see what's going on. Hopefully I just missing something easy.
In more depressing news, I filled the radiator last night only to find a leak from the back of the passenger side head/block line. It appears to be the head gasket but the fact that it's leaking with no pressure makes me very nervous. So I'm going to have to pull the intake and heads to see what's going on. Hopefully I just missing something easy.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: alabama
QTB - take a look at my intake setup its a simple and easy setup actually puts the filter in the driver side wheel well behind the bumper. You will get robbed almost 20hp with the location that you have, I had mine in the same location. Added a 45 tube and 45 elbow and went from 140 IAT to 93 in dead of summer. I can email you pictures of the setup if need be. What program were you using for the shifter design? If you end up needing anymore AN fittings or line let me know we stock this stuff and can give you a good deal.
Great build! I know how it is to modify the sikky components. Im still to lazy to pull the motor again to remove the outer firewall, makes me wish i did it to begin with.
Re read about the clutch master - I had the exact same problem. They use the wrong thread size banjo bolt and iv even told justin about this that they need to change it. I just used the wilwood with the stock piston and push rod from one of our 7/8ths master cylinder.
Great build! I know how it is to modify the sikky components. Im still to lazy to pull the motor again to remove the outer firewall, makes me wish i did it to begin with.
Re read about the clutch master - I had the exact same problem. They use the wrong thread size banjo bolt and iv even told justin about this that they need to change it. I just used the wilwood with the stock piston and push rod from one of our 7/8ths master cylinder.
Last edited by Brew_haha; May 9, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
QTB - take a look at my intake setup its a simple and easy setup actually puts the filter in the driver side wheel well behind the bumper. You will get robbed almost 20hp with the location that you have, I had mine in the same location. Added a 45 tube and 45 elbow and went from 140 IAT to 93 in dead of summer. I can email you pictures of the setup if need be. What program were you using for the shifter design? If you end up needing anymore AN fittings or line let me know we stock this stuff and can give you a good deal.
Great build! I know how it is to modify the sikky components. Im still to lazy to pull the motor again to remove the outer firewall, makes me wish i did it to begin with.
Re read about the clutch master - I had the exact same problem. They use the wrong thread size banjo bolt and iv even told justin about this that they need to change it. I just used the wilwood with the stock piston and push rod from one of our 7/8ths master cylinder.
Great build! I know how it is to modify the sikky components. Im still to lazy to pull the motor again to remove the outer firewall, makes me wish i did it to begin with.
Re read about the clutch master - I had the exact same problem. They use the wrong thread size banjo bolt and iv even told justin about this that they need to change it. I just used the wilwood with the stock piston and push rod from one of our 7/8ths master cylinder.
The master cylinder was a pain but the Helicoil fixed it up. I'm still waiting on a shim for the CSC though.
Regardless, this project is basically stopped. I was digging around trying to find where my coolant leak was and found this:
Yes that's a crack in the block. I either missed it when I inspected the engine or it happened afterwards. Eitherway I F'ed up big time. Mean time I'm going to finish the exhaust so it's ready to go if my V-band clamps ever show up.
