Just another 600Z Magnum
turns out its the fitting that came with the sikky clutch kit. I put the OEM plug in and it sealed right up. the master cylinder is leaky too. I think that is an easy fix though.
Anyone know what this fitting actually is. It's flare that GM uses for the CSC and the other side is a an-3 i believe. This is the sucker that is leaking.
I've been browsing local hardware/auto parts stores with no luck. I looked around on Jegs as well with no luck. other than that it just needs fluids and it's ready to start.....then debug.
I've been browsing local hardware/auto parts stores with no luck. I looked around on Jegs as well with no luck. other than that it just needs fluids and it's ready to start.....then debug.
Well I have replace the CSC fittings and it appears to be sealed up but I still have a minor leak from the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. Probably from having to heli-coil it since it was stripped out from Sikky. The ACT twin disc has a nice feel so far, not too much pressure but a bit more than stock. The magnum shifts, at least 1-6th and I'm not sure if it's selecting Reverse yet or not, but it's a TT car so Reverse if for people who can't drive 
I basically have the water in the cooling systems (not leaking ), PS fluid filled and the rest of it together enough to fire it up. So tonight will be double checking all the electrical and hopefully pulling the OEM tune with HP tuners and going through that a little to richen up the fuel tables for all the breathing mods.
Then pending any more castastrophies I'll try and start it Friday, though I've said that before.
Cheers!
I basically have the water in the cooling systems (not leaking
), PS fluid filled and the rest of it together enough to fire it up. So tonight will be double checking all the electrical and hopefully pulling the OEM tune with HP tuners and going through that a little to richen up the fuel tables for all the breathing mods.Then pending any more castastrophies I'll try and start it Friday, though I've said that before.
Cheers!
I fully powered up all the electrical and there weren't any issues that I could find. I didn't get to the HP Tuner stuff yet but I'm still shooting for tonight or tomorrow to fire it up or at least make the first attempt.
I've thought about it since that's what I had to do to replace the leaky fitting from Sikky. Seems like a better idea with only a single crush washer.
I've thought about it since that's what I had to do to replace the leaky fitting from Sikky. Seems like a better idea with only a single crush washer.
I fully powered up all the electrical and there weren't any issues that I could find. I didn't get to the HP Tuner stuff yet but I'm still shooting for tonight or tomorrow to fire it up or at least make the first attempt.
I've thought about it since that's what I had to do to replace the leaky fitting from Sikky. Seems like a better idea with only a single crush washer.
I've thought about it since that's what I had to do to replace the leaky fitting from Sikky. Seems like a better idea with only a single crush washer.
Last edited by Quamen; Nov 2, 2012 at 01:51 PM.
Well she fires right up!!! But then dies after about 1-2 seconds. I think the vehicle immobilizer is the culprite. I'm going through the HP Tuner settings tonight to debug. Sounds amazing though.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12
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From: Orlando, FL
The lengths I'm seeing online show the Magnum as ~1.7" longer than the original T56, but it looks like the shifter plate you machined was longer than the sikky version. Is the shifter to bell housing length shorter on the magnum than the original?
Also, any thoughts on how a magnum would sit with the fueled kit? 1.7" is pretty easy make make up with an offset short shifter if thats all thats needed: http://www.tremec.com/performance/shifters.html
I'm struggling to find any diagrams that show sizes/lengths.
Also, any thoughts on how a magnum would sit with the fueled kit? 1.7" is pretty easy make make up with an offset short shifter if thats all thats needed: http://www.tremec.com/performance/shifters.html
I'm struggling to find any diagrams that show sizes/lengths.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Funny, not sure how I missed this on the last search.
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/english...educed_198.pdf
Looks like the housing to shifter is 1.21" shorter on the magnum, but the shifter to tail is 2.5" longer, so the magnum is 0.7" longer overall. The bell housing is also 0.1" shorter. I thought you could swap between the two. Guess you need a different bell housing to keep the input shaft on the pilot bushing.
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/english...educed_198.pdf
Looks like the housing to shifter is 1.21" shorter on the magnum, but the shifter to tail is 2.5" longer, so the magnum is 0.7" longer overall. The bell housing is also 0.1" shorter. I thought you could swap between the two. Guess you need a different bell housing to keep the input shaft on the pilot bushing.
Robert. The cam and Valvetrain was done by Ed Curtis. Cam God of the LS world. His company is called Flow Tech Induction.
Boog, the mag is over all longer than the normal t56 by the 1.7" you mentioned and the shiter actually sits more forward. There are several shift knuckles to choose from but the closest is still requires something like a 9" offset. In regards to the bell housing you can just use a standard ls housing and switch pilot bearing. The crank is machined to accept 2 types. This will make up for the longer input shaft of the magnum. If my memory is correct you'll want a gto type bearing.
Boog, the mag is over all longer than the normal t56 by the 1.7" you mentioned and the shiter actually sits more forward. There are several shift knuckles to choose from but the closest is still requires something like a 9" offset. In regards to the bell housing you can just use a standard ls housing and switch pilot bearing. The crank is machined to accept 2 types. This will make up for the longer input shaft of the magnum. If my memory is correct you'll want a gto type bearing.