Good stuff. I use to work at a LS performance shop. Great build!

 

I've got a date with a dyno next week. I can't wait to see what this sucker can do!

 

 

Looking forward to results to post on Z33Art!

 

Great build!

 

Well its a bit lower than I hoped but 435whp and 450 lb-ft. But it keeps me in a lower class so all is well.

 

I agree 435 is low for that setup considering cam/intake/headers = 400whp in an LS1 (I'm sure you knew that, though). I'm assuming those are corrected Dynojet numbers. Maybe it's just a bad match with the cam and rockers, etc? Just thinking outloud. Badass build, though.

 

So I actually got the car home. I'm certain there is still some power to be had. I'm not super happy with the tune on the car so I'm making some small changes here and there. At WOT it's running between 10.5-11.5:1 AFR, so I need to lean it out a touch. I need some warmer weather again and I should get it straightened out. One bank is running about 15% more rich than the other too, I'm pretty certain I know the cause of that. Oh well, the devil is in the details.

 

Me gusta

 

Do you have another car to reference on the dyno you used? Dyno numbers are just that... numbers. My car was a good example of that since my numbers were also super low for my setup.

 

Agreed. I'm not really worried about it. The only other data point was a ls6 z06 twin turbo that did 625 whp with 7 psi of boost. Which I don't know any other details so its a crap shoot.

 

Have you driven your car much? I never drove mine on the street with nitrous because it was too much but at 435whp in a 3spd it was violent. Granted the dyno I used always read low.

 

A little bit. Its quick but not much faster than my 2012 Boss 302 (typically dyno 360-390 whp). So the power level seems appropriate given my comparion. The gears are so much shorter in the Boss it can be deceiving.

 

Good news!

 

Terrific!

 

It has 470 in it. Something is choking out. I'm guessing the intake elbow.

 

So I'm doing some more testing/protoyping with the intake. For you guys with the Sikky motor mounts that are looking to free up some space this may be a decent option for you. BTW I'm not selling this so don't ask.

Basically removing the TB from the manifold and adding a 90* extention right of the manifold, it saves you about 1.25"or 31.75mm for you metric types. Plus it adds some additional manifold volume so it will require adjustments to your VE maps but it's all in a days work I'm going to fit together 2 options at this point. 1 with this mittered 2.625" Radius bend and the 2nd will be with a 4" radius, i.e. 1D. Also this will require you to extend your TB harness a few inches.



The plates are the end are machined to use the OEM gasket on the manifold and TB. Since the actual TB is just over 3.5" ID and I'm using 4" tubing I added radii to help not make the air super turbulent with a small step so the tube can insert into the plate. This also make for a stronger welded joint.





I'm also looking into using a flow straighener after the bend to keep turbulent air from getting all funky going into the manifold.

Anyhoo....just my madness getting the better of me.

 

I think your problem might be the intake. You might need at least one inner diameter's worth length of straight pipe before the throttle body. I would also not relocate the throttle body. It is not only for flow control but also direction control. You're adding unnecessary turbulence. The point is you're throwing in an extra variable and probably reducing power.

Try using an external intake with no hood (for fun) and see what happens.

(I'm an ME and I do flow dynamics )

 

I totally agree with what your saying the unfortunate part is there just isn't ~4 inchs worth of room to accomplish that. With the TB is it's stock location and a 2-5/8" radius bend you're touching the radiator. So my thought was, move the TB, and add as much straigh tubing as possible leading into the manifold. Still I'm probably only going to get MAYBE 1/2D worth, but some CFD stuff I've done shows pretty decent flow if you use a flow straightener. Keep in mind my CFD software is rough at best, not Fluent by any means.

If you're interested I could run some of it by you to get your thoughts. I'm an ME too but mostly stick to mech systems and welding.

 

No don't use flow straighteners. Just keep it as straight as possible leading up to the bend.

Something like this:



http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292254

Hinson Supercars could give you some good advice.