I am attempting the DIY to replace the three differential bushings (two on diff ears and one in rear subframe). I'm using both the DIY and the FSM, but feel like I'm missing something obvious while disconnecting the driveshaft and rear axles from the diff.

I have a 5AT and the FSM instructs you to put the transmission in neutral and release the emergency brake before removing the driveshaft. However, when I do that and attempt to break the bolts on the driveshaft, the shaft spins and I can't get good leverage. I don't have an impact wrench and am attempting by hand using a breaker bar - the issue isn't that they are tight but that if I apply force, it spins. I have searched and no one else has complained about this, so I must be missing something obvious - can anyone enlighten me?

If the answer is get an impact wrench, that's not the end of the world (in fact I am looking for an excuse), but I would think I'll have similar issues putting it back together and torquing by hand with my torque wrench.

 

just curious, what brand bushings are you replacing with?

 

I think I know what you mean. I have absolutely no upper body strength and when I did both the drive shaft and the axles I just used open/box wrenches and found a way to get one wrench on the bolt(or nut) and hold it in my hand until I got another wrench on the other side and start to turn. Go until the first wrench hits something solid like the frame or suspension arm, etc. and then use both hands on the second wrench to get the leverage you need. Using both wrenches in each hand while the shaft is in mid-air will get you nowhere unless you have arms as big as your legs

This technique will vary between which wrench is more convienient to butt up against something depending on if you are tightening or loosening and based on how much room you have on the axles you will have to figure out if it's better on the nut or bolt and may depend on if you are on the left axle or right but once you get the idea and do one the other 5 on the axle or the other 3 on the driveshaft will all go the same way.

Once you get it you'll have it all out in under 30 minutes probably. Pay attention to which way the bolt points and the washers go but the FSM does show that in case you forget.

I don't know how else to explain it but will try another way for you if not. Good luck!

And don't scratch or bang up that driveshaft. Put towels under it before you drop it down to rest on the crossmembers, etc. You'll be surprised how light it is. The first time I broke it loose I almost jammed it upwards into the car floor violently but stopped myself just in time! Maybe put towels above it too! :-)

 

i dint have any issues breaking it loose with 2 long wrenchs but thats just me i guess, dont really consider myself that strong. as far as just breaking em loose really quick just jerk the ebrake and bust 2 loose then drop it, spin and jerk the ebrake again for the other 2 you can use a single box end wrench and if you need more torque double wrench it by hooking the box end of a second wrench of the open end of the first wrench. after that you can use 2 wrench to take it off easy and the driveshaft shouldnt move if you work both wrenchs at the same time, whole equal and opposite force thing. your not going to damage anything by using the ebrake to hold the driveshaft hub in place.

 

I went with the Whiteline kit. I don't track, so decided against SPL. I can't say I had a real reason for picking the Whitelines over the Energy Suspension.

Excellent, thanks. I don't have a lot of practical knowledge doing car work but have confidence in my ability to learn - sometimes though I hesitate when I am unsure if I'll make things worse.

This is a good idea, will try this also.

Better safe than sorry!


Thanks everyone for your input. Realistically with work I might not have time to try this until a few days from now, but will let you know how it goes.

 

Why not just pull the ebrake so the drive shaft doesnt turn, loosen 2 nuts. Then release ebrake turn driveshaft, pull ebrake so you can get to the other 2 nuts and loosen those then release the ebrake.
Dont mean to sound like a d!ck or anything but if youre having problems with getting those bolts off then youre in for quite a ride trying to get the stock subframe bushing out lol its a pain in the a$$

 

Thanks all for the help - setting the e-brake and not holding back on the wrench, I was able to get these loose.

I'm still concerned about how I'm going to torque them correctly when putting it back together. None of my sockets fit and give clearance; I even bought a universal joint socket ( ) but it's also too big. Most of what I'm using is for 1/2" drivers - will I have better luck with smaller sets?

Anyone who has retorqued these guys, what size set are you using and what kind of torque wrench?

 

I used a Sears crowsfoot wrench (needs 3/8" drive) and my usual 1/2" click torque wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter. Crowsfoot wrenches are impossible to find in 1/2" drive (at least affordably).
Instead of using two open/box wrenches, use one and then use the crowsfoot in place of the other one and use the same method as loosening by letting the open/box wrench push up against the car. There won't be room on either side just one side only. Pick the side the torque wrench setup will fit on and put the open/box wrench on the other and spin the axle until you find the sweet spot to work at.
Works with very little figuring on the driveshaft. Much more open but still needs the crowsfoot design.

 

Thanks, this was very helpful.


One last question if anyone knows. I got the old bushings out and am going to reinstall the diff/pumpkin but didn't take good notes when taking it down. When I took it out, my car had two metal plates on top of the ears (between the front of the subframe and the diff) - it also had a single rubber washer that for the life of me I can't remember whether was on top or below the ears (obviously also had the metal washers at the very bottom). Should I have two of those rubber washers? And if I am doing the Whiteline install, do I need the rubber washer (and the top plate for that matter)? If so, on top or below? I sent a note to Whiteline support to ask them, but I wanted to see what other members have done with their install.

If this is confusing I will take pics of what I have when I'm back home. I am also confused because the diagram I see in the FSM doesn't quite match the diagrams in the parts catalogs. The FSM has one item on top of the ears (#8 -upper "stopper") and two items below (#5 - lower "stopper" and #4 - washer). The parts diagram at courtesyparts.com shows part 55474 and 55476 on top and 55475 and 55482 on the bottom (here). That's inconsistent and neither match what I found on my car (though it's possible I really goofed and lost something )

 

If you are doing Whiteline you probably don't need to get all concerned about where everything was. Sounds like from my memory you have the right number of plates and washers. Check either the Sticky Thread on "rear bushing - no C- clamp method and towards the end there was someone that was having touble figuring out the same thing but it may have been the "other" brand (the yellow bushings). Search for Whiteline too and look in the DIY section. I've seen this before somewhere.
I do know you need to get it right or the angle of your driveshaft will be WRONG no matter how small of a difference you think it makes. Be carefull.

Glad the other advice worked out

 

Thanks man, I appreciate your help. I think I got it all sorted out now - I found the second rubber washer "safely" tucked away on my workbench. And confession time: When doing this originally, I had someone over to help me getting the diff back in. Removing the bushings took so long that it was getting late and we just got everything back in there... without the top-plate or washers. Realized the next day that we forgot those. Found that thread you are talking about and it definitely seemed important. Not only for alignment of the diff & driveshaft but without the top plate, the bushing is taking the pressure of the bolt - with it in, pressure is transferred from front subframe directly to the ears of the diff. Anyway, supporting the diff with a jack it wasn't too bad lowering the front part down enough to slip everything in there. From top down I did metal top hat/plate, slim whiteline bushing half, thicker whiteline bushing half, rubber washer, metal washer, bolt.

Seriously amateur hour in my garage, but oh well - learned a lot and saved a lot of money. Best part of this project is that since the dealer wanted $1950 to fix this (replace the whole subframe), my wife agreed that even if I spend a few hundred dollars on tools we're still saving money.

The last question I'll throw out is that putting everything back together, my stock sway bar is REALLY close to my diff... like, so close they may be touching, I can't get close enough to see. Does that seem right or do I have something misaligned? I rounded the nut on my sway bar to end link connection and ended up removing the entire bracket + end link + sway bar and since there is some play in the set up, I'm wondering if I put it back together wrong.

 

Ignore me... looked more closely at the FSM and realized I had on backwards...