The basics to swap a LS1 in the Z....
the sikky kit is pretty straight forward. i have been helping my buddy put a cammed ls2 with ls6 heads in his g35.... he sent the gm ecu along with his harness to sikky and they spliced it in together. it uses all the factory gauges except the tach
Some folks have unrealistic goals, yours (other than slightly optimistic power goals) is completely doable.You have a GEN III motor/PCM combo which basically means Drive by Cable, which I prefer but I like a spartan raw feel. IMHO I like the fueled kit better simply because you retain the LS' rear sump and looks pretty good. I as far as wiring/tuning/ and finalizing details, if you want CIN to do the wiring and tuning, it is time well spent to sit down with Bobby and put a plan together. He has done several of these, he can save you time and money just from his insight. That's why my car is there! Spend an hour with him, take notes, and make a plan. when you have finished the mechanicals and are ready for the wiring drop it off at CIN and they will hook you up. I might even lend a hand on the wiring ( I am an Electrical Engineer
) The better your plan is the more it will save time, pain and money
Here is what I'm going to do once all the parts get here. I'm jumping back into the Z community from the ls swapped FD3S community so this wont be my first swap. Also this means a lot of parts are going to be scavenged from my FD3S. Right off the bat i'm going to mention the LS3 EROD motor I'm using is going to be instrumental in the ease of this installation.
Here is a parts list of what I have/will have.
LS3 EROD motor
quicktime bellhousing
Tremec T-56 Magnum transmission
sikky shifter adapter (for a FD3S but the intial measurements are close)
wilwood clutch master cylinder
Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing
mcleod clutch set
fueled racing mount basic kit*
Speedhut revolution gauges
corvette FPR
aeromotive fuel pump
CTS-V front accessory drive kit
Modified s14 gas pedal to run the DBW.
Items with * are still due in
Here is why the EROD motor is such a big part of the build. It largely runs its own wire harness. There is a total of 13 wires to splice in and realistically only about 8 are actually needed. Also as long as you maintain the emissions equipment your 50 state legal. My FD3S passed CA CARB, so it would be good anywhere else I imagine.
I plan to retain the stock 350z ECU to run the body harness of the car and control the climate control system.
I'll make a build thread as soon as everything shows up but for now this should be near a complete install list as far as I see minus the A/C adaptor block and lines. I'll have to get exact measurements for that later once the engine bay is clear.
Here is a parts list of what I have/will have.
LS3 EROD motor
quicktime bellhousing
Tremec T-56 Magnum transmission
sikky shifter adapter (for a FD3S but the intial measurements are close)
wilwood clutch master cylinder
Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing
mcleod clutch set
fueled racing mount basic kit*
Speedhut revolution gauges
corvette FPR
aeromotive fuel pump
CTS-V front accessory drive kit
Modified s14 gas pedal to run the DBW.
Items with * are still due in
Here is why the EROD motor is such a big part of the build. It largely runs its own wire harness. There is a total of 13 wires to splice in and realistically only about 8 are actually needed. Also as long as you maintain the emissions equipment your 50 state legal. My FD3S passed CA CARB, so it would be good anywhere else I imagine.
I plan to retain the stock 350z ECU to run the body harness of the car and control the climate control system.
I'll make a build thread as soon as everything shows up but for now this should be near a complete install list as far as I see minus the A/C adaptor block and lines. I'll have to get exact measurements for that later once the engine bay is clear.
So based upon your answers I can safely tell you this, it is completely doable Some folks have unrealistic goals, yours (other than slightly optimistic power goals) is completely doable.
You have a GEN III motor/PCM combo which basically means Drive by Cable, which I prefer but I like a spartan raw feel. IMHO I like the fueled kit better simply because you retain the LS' rear sump and looks pretty good. I as far as wiring/tuning/ and finalizing details, if you want CIN to do the wiring and tuning, it is time well spent to sit down with Bobby and put a plan together. He has done several of these, he can save you time and money just from his insight. That's why my car is there! Spend an hour with him, take notes, and make a plan. when you have finished the mechanicals and are ready for the wiring drop it off at CIN and they will hook you up. I might even lend a hand on the wiring ( I am an Electrical Engineer) The better your plan is the more it will save time, pain and money
Some folks have unrealistic goals, yours (other than slightly optimistic power goals) is completely doable.You have a GEN III motor/PCM combo which basically means Drive by Cable, which I prefer but I like a spartan raw feel. IMHO I like the fueled kit better simply because you retain the LS' rear sump and looks pretty good. I as far as wiring/tuning/ and finalizing details, if you want CIN to do the wiring and tuning, it is time well spent to sit down with Bobby and put a plan together. He has done several of these, he can save you time and money just from his insight. That's why my car is there! Spend an hour with him, take notes, and make a plan. when you have finished the mechanicals and are ready for the wiring drop it off at CIN and they will hook you up. I might even lend a hand on the wiring ( I am an Electrical Engineer
) The better your plan is the more it will save time, pain and moneySo again for my Basics
Engine: LS1
Trans: TK56 from a GTO
Pedal: 240sx or S13 etc(just drive by cable)
Then odds and ins to make stuff work maintenace etc
The guy i was buying the motor hasnt txted or called me back in 2 days. Kinda worried now. But then again im putting the pressure on him to let me check the oil pan and other stuff
side note, the fueled kit sits the motor lower and farther back than the sikky kit. if your keeping it NA not a big deal but if you plan on boost eventually the extra room up front is nice with the fueled kit
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 172
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From: paducah, ky
Good info. I called Fueled racing like 10x over a week and no response or calls back or emails replied. I know sikky has had their issues as well. but basically their around the same price. Sikky told me Fueled makes you cut into the firewall.....?
So again for my Basics
Engine: LS1
Trans: TK56 from a GTO
Pedal: 240sx or S13 etc(just drive by cable)
Then odds and ins to make stuff work maintenace etc
The guy i was buying the motor hasnt txted or called me back in 2 days. Kinda worried now. But then again im putting the pressure on him to let me check the oil pan and other stuff
So again for my Basics
Engine: LS1
Trans: TK56 from a GTO
Pedal: 240sx or S13 etc(just drive by cable)
Then odds and ins to make stuff work maintenace etc
The guy i was buying the motor hasnt txted or called me back in 2 days. Kinda worried now. But then again im putting the pressure on him to let me check the oil pan and other stuff
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: marley md
I will look into jordan innovations. WHat did that cost if you dont mind me asking? Would you say your car is street legal? In NC we dont have strict emmissions laws like CA just have to plug in obd2 and no codes and visual.( I have the visual part under control) I just dont want to do this if my car will turn into a track car i cant drive on the road.
so.... VIN/nissan + ECU/chevrolet = fail emmisions.
however in MD they have to allow you to fix the problem and the MAX you have to spend on repairs is $400. So make a friend that will "tune" your car or PM the engine for $400 and give you a repeipt for Emission repairs, take the reciept to Emissions and get the 2 year waiver.
i would look for cars in your area using standalone and see what they did to get through. your tuner can make the ECU show very similar to a standalone.
Mike
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 71
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From: marley md
it is an important detail.
just like a tune to "turn off" the second 02's with test pipes would fail the obd scan this will too. OBD2 requirements are difficult to navigate. the Waiver system is not.
do the swap do you know if there is a Waiver system there?
just like a tune to "turn off" the second 02's with test pipes would fail the obd scan this will too. OBD2 requirements are difficult to navigate. the Waiver system is not.
do the swap do you know if there is a Waiver system there?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 71
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From: marley md
Seems like this isnt so bad. Sikky has some new items on their Facebook. Look there. They may have a good harness solution. Also looked like they have some new things in the works to make the a/c swap easier too.I need to look again on that one.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 109
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From: Gardner, KS
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,175
Likes: 132
From: Florida
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 172
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From: paducah, ky
DO NOT USE HINSON MOTORSPORTS SWAP KIT! I bought my z with no engine and trans but came with a hinson swap kit, the headers LOOK nice but don't fit worth crap! I had to hammer on $1500 headers, there mounts use the factory z rubber mount which has too much movement and the header would hit the steering knuckle under acceleration, the header had to me hammers, grinded the steering knuckle completely down as far as they could, and put solid mounts in, the oil is the worst quality so I got my oil pan from fueled racing. Oh and hinsons customer service sucked.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: paducah, ky
Here is what I recommend man. Pick out your engine and trans, Try to get ecu wiring and all. Get the fueled racing kit or sikky kit. Id recommend Jordan innovations for the wiring. Id get an aftermarket radiator with some nice fans and jeff will wire them up with the harness. Take some wire and bend it the way you want to route your radiator hoses and take the wire to a part store. Get a speed bleeder to bleed the clutch. You need a complete gto shifter and the little cup in the shifter if you get a t56 with fbody shifter. Run a s13 pedal and throttle cable. Pedal bolts right in, drill hole for cable. Running heat? That's simple just some common sense and hose. For the intake I used some pvc from lowes lol but you can just order a sharp 90 degree coupler and some straight pipe. You will also have to hammer some in the corners of the engine bay on the secondary fire wall, the coilpacks/valve cover hits. I think that's about it. The swap kits include clutch, power steering etc... I think that about cover everything. I run after market oil pressure, tach, temp gauges.
Thanks everyone for the responses. Been a couple crazy days I havent even been on here. 1st off we do have a waiver in NC but F doing that every year then maybe one year DMV gets smart and sees why I cant pass and says no.
2 The BAMF try to take me for a spin. I go to pick up Engine and the ECU is diced up. Then I wanted to take off oil pan he said no it would make a mess. I told him I will go to Advance and buy the chit to basically do a oil change, he said no. I told him with these circumstances Id give him 500. No this MF held his ground for 1k. So no V8 this week.
Also Lowandsteezy thanks for the info. Seems now im back on the grind for a engine and trans
2 The BAMF try to take me for a spin. I go to pick up Engine and the ECU is diced up. Then I wanted to take off oil pan he said no it would make a mess. I told him I will go to Advance and buy the chit to basically do a oil change, he said no. I told him with these circumstances Id give him 500. No this MF held his ground for 1k. So no V8 this week.
Also Lowandsteezy thanks for the info. Seems now im back on the grind for a engine and trans
