The basics to swap a LS1 in the Z....
12-27-2013, 01:54 PM
#1
The basics to swap a LS1 in the Z....
So after reading page after page after page over and over I would like to ask questions on the perfect ingredients per say to swapping a LS1 in. No one has created a thread for just a SIMPLE swap. Thats what I plan on doing. I've called Sikky to Chasebays to Fueled racing and im almost more confused. So any help with REAL INFO would be great.
Im going to pick up a LS1 next weds from a wrecked 2002 Camaro SS. Uncut harness from oil pan to intake and all accessories for a outstanding price. I know ill need a T56 trans and shifter play if i recall from a GTO. (still working on that).
240sx pedal bc of drive by cable
Sikky told me to get the cable from a 300xz bc of how long they are
Now this is when i get confused bc of wiring. Iv read you run 2 harnesses one for the LS running the motor and Z harness for Z stuff. Then Chasebays stated all I need is to send them certain things conncectors etc from my Z stuff to get AC and engine running for around 650. Now I know that Chase has been kind of wishy washy so Im still hesitant on it.
Im going to do everything myself besides difficult wiring and tune. My goals are 450whp to start with. Im looking for the guys that have done this swap to give me the rest of the info im lost on. Idc about downtime bc I have 3 cars. And also I know for that HP level i will need performance parts. I plan on doing things with the LS1 on the stand like cams and maybe do minor maintenance things like possible timing chain replacement etc that I will do to make sure it runs smooth.
Thanks,
Jay
Im going to pick up a LS1 next weds from a wrecked 2002 Camaro SS. Uncut harness from oil pan to intake and all accessories for a outstanding price. I know ill need a T56 trans and shifter play if i recall from a GTO. (still working on that).
240sx pedal bc of drive by cable
Sikky told me to get the cable from a 300xz bc of how long they are
Now this is when i get confused bc of wiring. Iv read you run 2 harnesses one for the LS running the motor and Z harness for Z stuff. Then Chasebays stated all I need is to send them certain things conncectors etc from my Z stuff to get AC and engine running for around 650. Now I know that Chase has been kind of wishy washy so Im still hesitant on it.
Im going to do everything myself besides difficult wiring and tune. My goals are 450whp to start with. Im looking for the guys that have done this swap to give me the rest of the info im lost on. Idc about downtime bc I have 3 cars. And also I know for that HP level i will need performance parts. I plan on doing things with the LS1 on the stand like cams and maybe do minor maintenance things like possible timing chain replacement etc that I will do to make sure it runs smooth.
Thanks,
Jay
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12-29-2013, 08:21 AM
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The swap is easy, I'd get the sikky or fueled racing kit. For wiring I sent my ls harness to Jordan innovations and he made a standalone harness with his own fuse box with race relays! Was so simply to hook up! In the passenger engine bay by the fuse box I cut off 2 or 3 plugs ran them straight to power so the key would work power windows and heat etc... So engine runs off a switch panel everything else runs off the key switch. Hardest part is throttle cable to me, which isn't hard, just drilled 3 holes on fire wall and uses a s13 pedal and cable. Oh yeah heater hoses was a tight fit!
12-29-2013, 08:47 AM
#11
I will look into jordan innovations. WHat did that cost if you dont mind me asking? Would you say your car is street legal? In NC we dont have strict emmissions laws like CA just have to plug in obd2 and no codes and visual.( I have the visual part under control) I just dont want to do this if my car will turn into a track car i cant drive on the road.
12-29-2013, 04:00 PM
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I haven't done a 350z build but I did do an s14 last winter. I had a standalone harness made and ran the engine on the ls harness and ecu (pulled power off the ignition so it turned on when keyed) and left all the factory car chasis wiring intact for lights etc. I was lazy and didn't feel like running gauges so I got a Bluetooth ob2 plug in and mounted my iPad in the dash
That read everything I needed it to as my harness hooked up to the t56 and hp tuners has scaling to correct for tire siE and gearing so the speed is correct.
I believe Hinson now has an adapter harness for the canbus to function correctly with the factory cluster on the 350z
That read everything I needed it to as my harness hooked up to the t56 and hp tuners has scaling to correct for tire siE and gearing so the speed is correct.
I believe Hinson now has an adapter harness for the canbus to function correctly with the factory cluster on the 350z
12-29-2013, 04:07 PM
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You're in NC. Have Bobby do it. /thread
But seriously, he is who you should talk to. You have one of the top LS swap guys in your back yard, that's a valuable resource.
But seriously, he is who you should talk to. You have one of the top LS swap guys in your back yard, that's a valuable resource.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 12-29-2013 at 04:14 PM.
12-29-2013, 04:47 PM
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I will look into jordan innovations. WHat did that cost if you dont mind me asking? Would you say your car is street legal? In NC we dont have strict emmissions laws like CA just have to plug in obd2 and no codes and visual.( I have the visual part under control) I just dont want to do this if my car will turn into a track car i cant drive on the road.
12-30-2013, 02:00 AM
#18
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Hey man, I need a little more info to give you a better answer: what are your goals? do you want to keep tags on it? How nice do you want it to look?
In essence this much is global:
I'd love to give you more, but I'm not finished with mine and do not want to spread misinformation. My best advice is to go by the Shop and talk with Bobby.
In essence this much is global:
- if you want an easy swap, buy as much as you can kitted, i.e. Fueled or Sikky.
- If you have a Gen III motor you have a 23 tooth reluctor ring, if you have a GEN IV motor you have a 58 tooth reluctor ring, so the PCM needs to match unless you run the Lingerfelter translator box.
- Gen III motors also use drive by cable
- GEN IV motors also use drive by wire
- Wiring is a shot in the dark I've heard so many good and bad stories, thats why i purchased a used working harness
but in talking to Eric at Haltech they also have an LS harness, I think he said could be used with PCM or Haltech, and I think they were more competitive than people give them credit. - I've seen Z accessories re-utilized on the LS motor, but you are on your won for making brackets, or you can use LS accesories and buy brackets.
- Bobby@CIN is a great resource, just look at Nick's Car, there are others for Certain, but Bobby's buzinezz is making awesome cars, and CIN stands for Chevy, Infiniti, and Nissan, it is in the wheel house!
- The only thing I KNOW that can't be done, is the stock Z tach will not function with the feedback for the LS PCM, I'm going to tinker with my old cluster since I'm not needing it any more and see about putting a autometer tack guts in my cluster, oir worst case just just an autometer in the cluster.
I'd love to give you more, but I'm not finished with mine and do not want to spread misinformation. My best advice is to go by the Shop and talk with Bobby.
12-30-2013, 03:12 AM
#19
Hey man, I need a little more info to give you a better answer: what are your goals? 400-450 whp NA do you want to keep tags on it? Yes How nice do you want it to look? Id like it to look clean. Most swaps iv seen look clean. no redneck chitIn essence this much is global:
- if you want an easy swap, buy as much as you can kitted, i.e. Fueled or Sikky.
- If you have a Gen III motor you have a 23 tooth reluctor ring, if you have a GEN IV motor you have a 58 tooth reluctor ring, so the PCM needs to match unless you run the Lingerfelter translator box. The motor and ecu its coming out of is a 2002 Camaro SS LS1
- Gen III motors also use drive by cable
- GEN IV motors also use drive by wire
- Wiring is a shot in the dark I've heard so many good and bad stories, thats why i purchased a used working harness but in talking to Eric at Haltech they also have an LS harness, I think he said could be used with PCM or Haltech, and I think they were more competitive than people give them credit.
- I've seen Z accessories re-utilized on the LS motor, but you are on your won for making brackets, or you can use LS accesories and buy brackets.
- Bobby@CIN is a great resource, just look at Nick's Car, there are others for Certain, but Bobby's buzinezz is making awesome cars, and CIN stands for Chevy, Infiniti, and Nissan, it is in the wheel house!
- The only thing I KNOW that can't be done, is the stock Z tach will not function with the feedback for the LS PCM, I'm going to tinker with my old cluster since I'm not needing it any more and see about putting a autometer tack guts in my cluster, oir worst case just just an autometer in the cluster.
Yea I know Bobby is the man with this crap but im not trying to waste to much of his time bc i plan on doing everything myself. well except wiring issues and tuning and of course he will have it at that point.
thanks for the reply
12-30-2013, 04:15 AM
#20
Here is what I'm going to do once all the parts get here. I'm jumping back into the Z community from the ls swapped FD3S community so this wont be my first swap. Also this means a lot of parts are going to be scavenged from my FD3S. Right off the bat i'm going to mention the LS3 EROD motor I'm using is going to be instrumental in the ease of this installation.
Here is a parts list of what I have/will have.
LS3 EROD motor
quicktime bellhousing
Tremec T-56 Magnum transmission
sikky shifter adapter (for a FD3S but the intial measurements are close)
wilwood clutch master cylinder
Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing
mcleod clutch set
fueled racing mount basic kit*
Speedhut revolution gauges
corvette FPR
aeromotive fuel pump
CTS-V front accessory drive kit
Modified s14 gas pedal to run the DBW.
Items with * are still due in
Here is why the EROD motor is such a big part of the build. It largely runs its own wire harness. There is a total of 13 wires to splice in and realistically only about 8 are actually needed. Also as long as you maintain the emissions equipment your 50 state legal. My FD3S passed CA CARB, so it would be good anywhere else I imagine.
I plan to retain the stock 350z ECU to run the body harness of the car and control the climate control system.
I'll make a build thread as soon as everything shows up but for now this should be near a complete install list as far as I see minus the A/C adaptor block and lines. I'll have to get exact measurements for that later once the engine bay is clear.
Here is a parts list of what I have/will have.
LS3 EROD motor
quicktime bellhousing
Tremec T-56 Magnum transmission
sikky shifter adapter (for a FD3S but the intial measurements are close)
wilwood clutch master cylinder
Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing
mcleod clutch set
fueled racing mount basic kit*
Speedhut revolution gauges
corvette FPR
aeromotive fuel pump
CTS-V front accessory drive kit
Modified s14 gas pedal to run the DBW.
Items with * are still due in
Here is why the EROD motor is such a big part of the build. It largely runs its own wire harness. There is a total of 13 wires to splice in and realistically only about 8 are actually needed. Also as long as you maintain the emissions equipment your 50 state legal. My FD3S passed CA CARB, so it would be good anywhere else I imagine.
I plan to retain the stock 350z ECU to run the body harness of the car and control the climate control system.
I'll make a build thread as soon as everything shows up but for now this should be near a complete install list as far as I see minus the A/C adaptor block and lines. I'll have to get exact measurements for that later once the engine bay is clear.