Just curious if anyone has any familiarity with using their products on 350z's? About the only info I could find was with Edafe's use of their harness kit for his LS swap.

Just wondering if anyone else has used their stuff; feedback; thoughts, etc..?

http://www.chasebays.com/products/ni...zinfiniti-g35/

 

I don't think I've seen one that has arrived in proper working order. It is extremely easy to modify a harness yourself. I strongly recommend doing it.

 

I needed a stock cam sensor clip/connector. They were one of the few places that I could find that NORMALLY has them. Dude there said they has been out of stock for a while BUT...he was helpful.

What I didn't like was that they don't publish or even HAVE a phone number. All communication was through email, which is fine if your talking a $10 part.

Not cool if you have issues on something like a full harness.

 

I really like the idea of their PS line kit, and it seems legit. But with the harnesses...yeah that's a bit shady, especially if you're spending over $700.

Would be nice to get on the phone with someone there..

 

i wouldnt worry about the phone, they are a legit company. emails are generally much more efficient especially for record keeping and customer tracking. More than likely the phone number is provided on the invoice for customer support. At least, thats how we used to do it when we kept our phone number off the website.

 

PSI conversions sells the harness with all oem sensors for 600. They have a good reputation on ls1tech, the ls swap meca

 

I bought their wire harness for my ls swap in my 240 and had nothing but issues. With key on, my coil packs and wires at the ecu would get too hot to touch. I sent it back to them 3 different times to get it fixed because every time they returned it to me it still didn't work. I got tired of dealing with them and got a Wiring Specialties harness and plugged it in and it worked perfect. I won't deal with them again. They have a 'no refund' policy on their harnesses so I'm stuck with a harness that could possibly catch my car on fire if I would have the key on. They wouldn't even refund me for a faulty harness that they built... I have used a PSI harness on another ls swap in a 240 and it was great for a standalone harness that needs wired in. It's just not quite as 'tucked' and clean as Wiring Specialties harnesses.

 

Do you have a pic of your wiring specialties harness installed?

Thanks

 

damn. interesting to hear all that. i wasnt intending to vouch for them like as in their work or quality, just that i know they are a real legit company and not going to take someones money and disappear from the face of the earth.

I wonder what was up with your harness though... its not really all that hard to do these harnesses. I would have tested it to see where the problem was... although I am not implying that you should have to do so after paying money for it to be done correctly.

 

It seems like they used a smaller gauge wire that the other two harnesses I mentioned. Initially it didn't have any fuses or relays in the harness period. The second time I got it back, they added some but I still had the issue with the wiring getting too hot to touch. And then the plastic covers of the relays were even getting hot while only turning the key to the 'on' position for a few seconds. Engine still wouldn't run.


But then again, I haven't tried it since I got it back the last time but I have a good working WS harness that I dont want to remove since it works so well.

 

Like 7-8 years ago I used to work with a trained electrical engineer at a high-end performance shop. On the crazier high-dollar projects he would build the sickest engine harnesses ever using all true mil-spec hardware. I remember once questioning the wire gauge on the majority of the wiring. Its been a real long time now so I could be remembering incorrectly, but I believe it was explained to me that when using extremely high quality wire, you can usually get away with going down a gauge. I think it had something to do with either much finer copper strands leaving less air-gap between each other, or higher quality/pure copper with less resistence, or possibly both. The end result was less resistance from the same wire gauge, resulting in a higher amperage capacity per gauge.

I do all my own wiring with a practical mix of standard and mil-spec components, so I havent had a close-up look at these guys products. But I wonder if the wire they are using is super high-quality allow for the smaller gauge. Or at least, SUPPOSED to be that wire and maybe they ran out and used standard stuff, causing your problems? I dont know. I use expensive PTFE covered wire anyway, and I dont see a need to go down a gauge even if the stuff I have is considered good enough. I dont care if the engine harness is 1" diameter instead of 7/8" or weighs 6 oz's more.

Just speculating, who knows.