Precision350z

Recently blew my stock motor on a tune that we new was going to blow it, didn't care. Anyways. Been weighing between different options for the past year. Looking at BC stroker kits with the 625+ rods, cp pistons etc. Like anyone on here I believe, just want as much power/reliably as I can get, for the least amount $$, obviously. Always liked 750-850whp as a number. If I were to go bc kit, id get a billet girdle, and arp the heads. Wondering where that will get me ish with those awful twin 18g greddy turbos I've got. Running aem infinity 8 with meth, probably would run 1000cc fuel with some unknown size secondary's (94octane). Would love to throw on twin pt67's but not sure if I can afford all that right now. Just wondering what my best option is for the money, bc kit, or something like an IPL stage 2 or 3 block. Or something else? Would very much appreciate some ideas!
I live in Canada, so 10k USD in parts roughly is the limit. Builds always go over though
Also, all work done by myself minus the tuning and machining, so no cost there for install.
Thanks guys!

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

10K will get the motor... Nothing else!

4.07L Balanced Stroke Kit...$5500
Darton Sleeves...$1260
Billet Griddle...$300'ish
Oil Pump...$120'ish
Arp Studs L19 Heads and Mains ..$550
Head Gasket...No idea where to get 100MM head gaskets sorry but lets just say $200
ACL Race Bearings...$260
Machine work 500-1000

That's $10K just in your bottom end. You still need to do Heads. If you put cams and all that in your heads your looking at another $2000

Twin Turbo Kit $8000-$12000.
Full Stand Alone ECM $5000
Dyno Time $750

If your serious about power and reliability you need to have VERY VERY VERY deep pockets!


GOOD LUCK :-)

hulkout

There's a reason not many of us have gone with stroker kits. It's not like a small block Chevy where ya can throw a 400 crank into a 350 and call it a 383. There's no ready-made parts like that so its all custom.

Machine work is gonna be more like 1500 I would imagine. Installing those sleeves isn't a simple job. So it isn't cheap. I think Kyle at IPP quoted me something like 1050 for the install plus 1050 for the sleeves. And his prices are hella low (which is great! He does great work!).

However, there's plenty of power to be made with a 3.5L, and the need for sleeves other than the stock ones seems to be up for debate at the moment. The CP/Carrillo combo has been proven time and time again.

The greddy 18Gs are probably not going to get you to the 700whp range. Dynosty had the 18G record last I knew at 707whp and it had tons of supporting mods and those guys are tuning Gods.

What parts do you already have? Maybe we can better talk this out if we know that.

Precision350z

Thank you guys for the responses. Yes sorry I wasn't clear enough, I have the TT kit already, along with the standalone and meth kit. Along with 2 dead stock long blocks. Car is already tuned and on the aem infinity and its VE and lamda based tuning so its very quick and simple doing a retune while doing any physical motor mods like internals, since its VE. So that will cost me under 500. All that I need is the motor build for now, and yes those 18g's are nearly physically impossible to make 800whp with. Their garbage turbos. I have hookups with a machine shop, they've done tons of motors for me and i've done them a few favours so that shouldn't set me back much at all. But I didn't realize they didn't make the stroker kit in the stock size bore. My bad, so my best bet is just to throw cp pistons, and carillo rods then, and some telford 272's with supporting mods (springs, oil pump, arp studs etc) ?

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Yes best bet is bore .020 over and put rods, pistons, stock crank, stock griddle, acl race bearings, heads port polished, cams of some sorts, 20g turbos or something else that fits on the manifolds.

hulkout

I'm not a fan of the greddy turbos either. And I'm even less of a fan of their customer service. But that's another story for another time.

I have been doing a little looking and I think you could fit the 8cm^2 turbine housing from the 18g to something like a Garrett gtx3076r. May take a little machining but a good turbo place should be able to do it. I haven't been able to try it yet so it's just a theory. But anything that you can attach the turbine housing to the chra with a c clip should be workable in theory. Then you can keep your greddy manifolds and piping and stuff and not have to use the greddy turbos if you don't want to.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I like my greddy's thus far, but I have put minimal engine loads on them...with that being said they have a otherwise decent reputation - sell them for what you can get and look into a monster single turbo setup.

add a few bills for a harmonic dampener (might be in the stroker kit??)

add a $1000 for cooling mods - pathfinder mod, oil cooler setup, possibly a aftermarket radiator(but the oem isnt bad)

add $2000 for **** you thought you included but was forgotten ... new turbo oil feed lines, a high capacity oil pan, and other things I can't think of now...

Precision350z

Yeah the greddys spool decent enough and are reliable they just start blowing hot air at a low boost setting like 15psi+. Using a Garrett housing would be a good idea, not sure if it would just be more worth it to suck it up for the extra and just get two new pt67's though. Since th greddy manifolds have such a tiny flow rate. Hard to get good heat out of them for spools. Got a good bigger koyo rad , bigger oil pan. Why the harmonic dampener though? Has an unorthodox under drive pulley on it now. Always like singles but on inline motors, not sure if I'm a believer with v motors even with divided housings. I guess top end gains would be large though.

hulkout

i won't hijack your thread with my anti-greddy rant. But know that I'm not impressed. Lol

I thought you would like to save money on new manifolds and turbine housings. They should be enough for 750-850 whp don't ya think?

I looked a little at fitting 300zx manifolds to the vq35de. With a little modification it'd work. And manifolds for the vg are cheaper

Precision350z

Yeah I think you and I agree on the greddy kit lol. Yes I believe you could achieve 850 with the manifolds but I don't believe power curves would be nice along with poor boost reaction if using large housing turbos. I never thought of using vg manifolds, definitely will look into that thanks! Also think in I could fab up my own manifolds and get a nice welder to finish it off for me . In terms of cost though your original idea of a Garrett/any company larger housing turbo with the greddy turbine housing is best I think !

hulkout

Good luck! Can't wait to see what you come up with

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

underdrives are fine for ps pump/alt but I wouldnt run an underdrive on your crank ... I'll pretend to know but a harmonic dampener will take the micro-vibrations (caused by each cylinder firing) out of the crank before they can resonate and cause further (detrimental) damage...if pukes that are smarter than me say it's worth the $300 to protect the 20k investment, I tend not to argue...

hulkout

Pukes!? Hahahaha.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Carillo/Pauter rods, CP pistons, billet girdle, L19 head studs, HKS/Dynosty HG and done. 3.5L standard, proven, best bang for the buck built engine set up. Head work and cams optional; better VE but pricey.

Precision350z

Thanks guys, as of right now I'm thinking IPP stage 2 shortblock (arp mains, moly coated pistons, carillo/cp) plus hks hr headgaskets, kelford cams (Not sure wether to go with 272's or 280's, since I understand 280's would be awful to drive on a regular basis) with manley springs and ti retainers. A rev up oil pump and an IP billet girdle. Anyone know anything about the strength of the stock valves? Not wanting to get valves too but definitely don't want one to break from the increased rpm and heavy duty springs.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Stock heads are good up to 600'ish whp. But some people have went past that.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, how necessary is a billet girdle?

I ended up going with Wiseco pistons, Brian Crower rods, ARP 2000 head/main studs, and HR head gaskets... everything was fine for about 20k miles, then I started to push coolant...

Just picked up L19 head studs and HKS head gaskets for a top end rebuild though.

hulkout

According to the wiseco rep I spoke with the wrist pins are only good to 900 crank horse. Unless you got the upgraded wrist pins you will need to worry about those before the girdle.

roplusbee

You could always have the 18Gs serviced and upgraded to 20Gs. There are a few shops that do that sort of thing out there. Just a thought.........