Please help!!
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From: Duncan
Please help!!
So I bought a new clutch slave cylinder after changing the clutch (oem). Installed it today and now it won't bleed the clutch. The pedal springs down and won't come up unless I pull it back up. The hell is the problem cause I haven't found anything about this with a straight answer.
he prob isnt bleeding it. after you drain all the fluid out by replacing the slave, you will manually have to pull the pedal up until it starts to build pressure
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Are you using a power bleeder or the ol' "pump it up.... hooold it" method?
The only 99% sure way to bleed a Z is with positive pressure, not the pedal method. Or at least Motive has paid itself off many times over in saved brake fluid and time spent bleeding.
The only 99% sure way to bleed a Z is with positive pressure, not the pedal method. Or at least Motive has paid itself off many times over in saved brake fluid and time spent bleeding.
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From: Duncan
It is the old school method. We have gotten a little pressure not alot. And what is the motive?
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https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...-3-tab-adapter
or, the 0107 model, same thing basically.
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From: Duncan
So I saw it's about $60-$100. That's not really an option for me right now. Since we're starting to get pressure should we keep bleeding the system. BTW the is an 03 and just got a new slave and master cylinder today.
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https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html
$22....does same thing just not quite as eloquently. I used one of these until I bought the Motive. Gave away the HF one after using the Motive once.
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From: Duncan
You can always run to Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html
$22....does same thing just not quite as eloquently. I used one of these until I bought the Motive. Gave away the HF one after using the Motive once.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...kit-69328.html
$22....does same thing just not quite as eloquently. I used one of these until I bought the Motive. Gave away the HF one after using the Motive once.
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From: Pennsylvania
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From: Pennsylvania
If the fluid level is going down while the system is closed, then you either have air in the system or there's a leak somewhere. Are you sure you connected/installed everything properly? Pick up the bleeder Mic suggested and try that first. If that doesn't work, I'd follow the course of the whole system and look for leaks.
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From: Duncan
read this first
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...djustment.html
and then to the others below
https://my350z.com/forum/g35-g37/439...eat-mod-2.html
might want to read
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...djustment.html
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...djustment.html
and then to the others below
Tools Used: short flat-head screwdriver
Small handled 12mm open end wrench
1. Move the driver’s seat back and get in the floor board on your back.
2. Remove the fuse box cover.
3. Locate the clutch pedal assembly.
4. Notice the pedal has a fork attached to it; the fork is connected to a rod that goes back toward the firewall.
5. Insert the tip of the screwdriver into the fork and brace it.
6. Place the 12mm open end wrench on the nut located directly behind the fork, on the rod.
7. Break the nut loose.
8. Grab the rod with your fingers and turn it clockwise.
9. Re-tighten the nut.
10. Replace the fuse box cover.
11. Enjoy.
I went 4 turns and it ended up perfect, but you may want to start out with 2 turns and see how it feels; you do not want to turn it too many times or the pedal could end up too low to the floor, in which case the clutch would not be disengaged when you fully depress the pedal. If this were the case, the car would begin to move in gear with the clutch depressed, or stall.
Small handled 12mm open end wrench
1. Move the driver’s seat back and get in the floor board on your back.
2. Remove the fuse box cover.
3. Locate the clutch pedal assembly.
4. Notice the pedal has a fork attached to it; the fork is connected to a rod that goes back toward the firewall.
5. Insert the tip of the screwdriver into the fork and brace it.
6. Place the 12mm open end wrench on the nut located directly behind the fork, on the rod.
7. Break the nut loose.
8. Grab the rod with your fingers and turn it clockwise.
9. Re-tighten the nut.
10. Replace the fuse box cover.
11. Enjoy.
I went 4 turns and it ended up perfect, but you may want to start out with 2 turns and see how it feels; you do not want to turn it too many times or the pedal could end up too low to the floor, in which case the clutch would not be disengaged when you fully depress the pedal. If this were the case, the car would begin to move in gear with the clutch depressed, or stall.
might want to read
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...djustment.html