Kaden Hartmann

My 2003 350z will not start and I'm kind of at a loss. I'm getting no spark, rpms show as 0 when cranking.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

It started when I was driving and got a check engine light, after that when I stopped at a red light it started shaking really bad so I pulled over and shut it off. After that it wouldn't start again.

it showed codes for a couple things. P0113 p0118 p01136 p1111. Now shows one for cam bank 1 but that sensor is new and the wires tested out fine
I
replaced the fuel pump, cam and crank sensors with new ones
Replaced vvts,coolant temp sensor and maf sensor from pick and pull

I was getting and intermittent no cranking and no starting issue that I fixed by redoing some plugs for the ipdm but I didn't have enough parts to re do them all. Not sure where I'd find something like that other than the salvage yard

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Welcome- you might have more luck with getting some suggestions by providing more history of your Z. Besides the year, what mileage, mods and maintenance have been done? How many owners? With the number of codes you're pulling, there's got to be much more of a story here.

Kaden Hartmann

130k miles. It has aftermarket intake and exhaust. Not sure on ammount of owners or maintenance done. Automatic. Touring. It does have a rebuilt title

I had overfilled the coolant about so something may have shorted out. I was burning up one ignition coil so I took the engine wiring harness out and I found some broken insulation on a few wires. The coils do not seem to be burning any more

Kaden Hartmann

It seems to be turning over fine so I don't think it's the timing chain but I would still like to check to rule that out. I don't think it's Nats related because the light goes off when I turn the key but it does sound exactly like that

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

There are risks to purchasing a vehicle with a rebuilt title and no maintenance/repair history. It doesn't make much sense to continue throwing parts at it, or asking for advice from behind a keyboard. It sounds like you need a skilled Nissan trained tech with a CONSULT III unit to properly diagnose this Z. It's unlikely the fault could be caused by the timing chain, so don't do any damage trying to replace that.

Kaden Hartmann

Yea I may have to resort to that eventually but I was hoping not to have to get it towed to the dealership

Not sure if they'd ever have someone that would come check it with consult 3 at my house probably not likely the dealership would though

Kaden Hartmann

So I called around and found a guy that can does mobile consult 3 so I have that option as a last resort. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Rebuilt title = balla on a budget

You bought somebody else's problem

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Before you hire "a guy who does mobile consult 3", ask some questions. Does he have any factory Nissan training? Has s/he ever worked on diagnosing 350Zs before? There are plenty of cheap CONSULT 3 copies out there, does this guy really have a $15K Nissan diagnostic system banging away in the back of a truck? Make sure you hire someone with the right skills and tools is the next step.

Kaden Hartmann

I'm getting 4.9v on the signal wires for coils 1,2,3 with the key on and I'm getting 0.49v on coils 4,5,6

Zelduh

Kaden, as stated above, you have so many variables that without a real technician, you may never resolve the problem while an installer with a code reader chases the symptom(s).

I've had a few Nissans, they don't have the greatest grounds and they're very susceptible to issues with "parts store" electronics. With any rotating electrical, I only use OE Nissan parts, or Intermotor (genuine OE without the logo).

Kaden Hartmann

And that may be the route I have to take, though I'd rather fix it myself and save the money. Was just hoping someone on here may have some knowledge or experience related to the electrical issues I am having with my car. I have been going through the service manuals for the last 3 weeks and I will probably continue for a few more before resorting to take it in somewhere.

The only non oe parts I have put on are the cam, crank sensors, and fuel pump. Turns out those issues were caused by bad ipdm connectors so I could probably just put back in the oe parts on those. Would you recommend switching those back for the original parts?

Zelduh

Is it the money, or pride? You're wasting money throwing parts at it & compounding your problems at the same time. Did you even check the fuel pressure before replacing the pump? Part of learning...humility, will garner you more respect for admitting you're in over your head. There's no quick fix for the myriad of issues you are dealing with.

Kaden Hartmann

Yea there was no fuel. Should've tested Voltage at the pump though. I didn't buy it to take it to the dealership and pay them to fix it I bought it as a project. If I screw it up I'm not out too much money, could probably get a lot of it back if I parted it out