So before anyone grills me on doing this. I know, it's bad for the car. The car also has about 70k miles so its time for a new one anyway. With that being said...at a stop, when I get the engine up to about 3-3.5K+ RPMs and dump the clutch, the clutch doesn't engage fully. Last time it happened, it only engaged halfway and all I could smell is burnt clutch, and I haven't done it since for obvious reasons.

Another issue is when driving normally, the clutch will fully engage after shifting, but the pedal doesn't come back up the last 10-15% or so, i have to put my foot behind the pedal and give it a nudge for the last little bit. Any ideas as to what is causing that? Possibly from me being stupid in the last paragraph?

I'm thinking about upgrading to a stage one as it is and getting a full clutch kit, just want to know if there is anything extra I'd need due to the problems listed above.

 

I noticed the clutch return issue happening on mine as well at the track a few weeks ago, but I was definitely abusing it of course. By your post I feel like that disc is finished along with the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces as well. Along with getting a new clutch kit you should flush the system with Motul RBF 600 and think about maybe getting pucked disc to cool faster.

Sounds like you have air in the system. Probably from boiling out a tiny air bubble in the slave cylinder. If you have 06+ this is definitely what happened. When you burn the clutch enough to smell it, its basically an oven in your bellhousing.

 

Okay, yeah it's an 06 roadster. The air bubble would be causing that last little stick at the end you're saying, correct? How would I fix that?

Also I should clarify, it's gonna be a street car, still recommend the the pucked disc?

 

I recommend it if you are going to dump the clutch all the time yeah. I'm a little bit old school, I don't mess with street discs with higher clamp load PP. It will be a little annoying at first and any one new trying to drive your car will complain and stall but when you let go of the clutch its there right away. I also drive around with a welded diff so I may not be the right persons discretion to follow.

 

Yeah I don't intend on dumping it all the time, but it'll be nice to have that option if I decide to. But with the question, I'm assuming the flush would fix that air bubble?

Also, any reason to replace the slave cylinder also? Theres no other issues I know of aside from what I stated.

 

The flush is to get the old waterlogged fluid out and you want to got with what I recommended because it has a higher boiling point. If the slave cylinder is not leaking or in rough shape, save money and leave it.

 

Yeah, no leaking fluid, so good to know. So the new kit and everything will fix that dumping issue, what about that last little stick? Apologies if I'm asking a lot of questions, or if it's redundant. Just want to get this fixed as it's the only issue with the car right now.

 

Its ok my post count is going up . The pedal not returning fully is more than likely the air.

 

Gotcha, so what's the fix for that air bubble? The flush? Along with getting the old waterlogged fluid out.

 

Well documented hydraulics issue. 8 out of 10 times, clutch master causes the drop pedal. R&R, power bleed, done. Suggest changing out slave and line at the same time as the other 2 of 10 times its one of those. Recommend a stainless braided replacement line - helps take out any "spongy feeling" (similar to no-flex stainless brake lines).

 

My 2cents is a ACT 6puck (or equivilent) might be a little aggressive all things considered. I would look into the Jim Wolf Tech clutch & flywheel package - it’s a great middle ground and maybe slightly more aggressive than middle.

You dont need to replace the slave cylinder unless something is obviously wrong (are the 2006 still the external slave? I think so bc it’s still the CD0009??). But you do need to upgrade the master cylinder. Wilwood or Tilton make the two most popular and Tilton has a better reputation and is slightly more expensive but I think has longer longevity and is a little stouter.

You may want to switch-out the OEM transmission mount with a poly-mount.

If you’re this hard on the clutch that youre burning it up then you’ll also want to flush your transmission fluid … look into redline MT85 … I think that’s what does the best in these transmissions. And since you’re down there might as well do the FD too.

nothing wrong with driving the car aggressive but if youre killing clutches like this than this (IMO) falls under abuse … learn how to drive the car right - dont hammer the throttle before the clutch is fully-engaged.

 

I would never buy a puck type clutch for the street EVER, did it once and hated it, there are workarounds for everything now.
replace the slave with an aftermarket centric at minimum and if you have a delay valve get the delete kit. If you want a kit you can abuse a bit get something like the Nismo disc (infused with copper) so it can take heat. I believe Z1 also has a kit with a solid organic disc which is better for abuse.

 

Dark - Does anyone make a concentric for the CD009 transmission? I think the OEM slave is fine.

 

None I've ever seen. Don't know why anyone would when the OEM concentric likes to die (at least in the 33 HR versions with JK trans) and the best option for replacement is an "old school" external slave AKA "CSC elimination kit" (or the ZSP upgraded CSC).

 

No, no, I mean a Centric brand. They make a replacement for our cars that's cheaper than OEM.

 

oh? News to me! I’ll definately look into it.

 

Yup it's technically made by Wabco Japan but it's like half the price of the OEM slave