Been trying to find the solution in my problem but at this point im giving up and wanting to send it to a shop. My issue is that im able to get into gear when its off but when its on im not able to get into gear whatsoever tried to bleed the clutch master and slave cylinder, that didnt work so i tried to replace my clutch master, but that didn't work. already replaced the clutch about 2 months ago it drove fine until last week where i was starting to have trouble trying to get into gear. so i decided to try and diagnose it, and at this point i don't know whats going on.

https://youtube.com/shorts/dPBXGRQ_z9Y
heres the video of it.

 

try the shifter realignment

 

When you did the master, did you also replace the slave cylinder? Do both together.

 

I guess I’ll do that too I haven’t done the slave because the slave moves just fine. But I’ll replace that part

 

Just replaced the slave and still doesn’t do anything but I notice when I light press on the clutch it has this squeaky noise

 

so i had this exact same problem this weekend. I had the exact same problem you had. But for some reason today it started working just fine. If you find a solution lmk because we thought about replacing clutch, bleeding the clutch, and we thought about changing the trans oil. And I want to be sure it doesn’t happen again. we still don’t know why it happend.

 

just found out my issue for the clutch, turns out it’s either going to be your clutch thrust bearing or your pilot bushing, my pilot bushing was very thin compared to the new one but overall I got it fixed after taking the tranny out and taking a look.

 

Did you replace the bushing yourself? Did you soak the bushing in oil for at least 24 hours?

 

no we slowly hammered it in with a 14 socket not to far in but far enough in

 

So, those bronze bushings are porous because they're meant to absorb and hold oil. That's why there's usually oil in the bag they come in. I usually soak them for 24 hours then use a trick I learned years ago where I place it in my palm, fill the center with oil, then apply pressure with my thumb to force the oil into the bushing. Hopefully yours had enough oil in it.

 

Is the only bleeder on the slave under the car? Or is there a way to bleed it from the top? Is the slave on the driver's side?

 

The bleeder for the slave cylinder is on the slave cylinder which is under the car, so yes. But, the slave changed from the DE to the HR - what year is your Z?

 

You don't need to ask this three times in three different threads
In the 3 minutes it took you to post those, you could of researched it to figure it out

 

Yes, I know there is a bleeder on the slave, but is that the only one. 2005 350Z. My car is parked in 1 plus gravel, I need to get it on the ramps to repair. If I could bleed it enough to move it, I could.

 

Yep. Only bleeder is on the external slave on the side of the trans. Good luck.

 

Well bummer, it's jacks and jack stands. I have a power bleeder though. I'll just pull the pedal out and go that way. Should give me enough to get it on the stands, then I can replace everything.

 

Regards, iReZ
Here's a thought: The Z's clutch engages / disengages near the top of pedal throw. It's tempting to adjust that point nearer the firewall for faster engagement in which event the fluid to the slave cylinder is not recharged from the master cylinder.

https://www.aa1car.com/library/brake...r_cylinder.htm

Adjusting pedal engagement at the threaded yoke pushes the piston in the M. C. forward, there is a small range of adjustment available before that port is closed by the valve. At that point, fluid from the reservoir will no longer flow to refresh the lines. Hydraulic pressure falls to the point that the pedal will eventually go to to the floor before actuating the slave cylinder.

Try this: You may want to remove the fuse box cover in the foot well. Pull the pin that couples the yoke to the pedal, shorten the rod to the master cylinder by two or three turns. recouple the yoke to the pedal and manually work the pedal for its full throw several times. If there is improvement then you know you're on the right track.

It's also possible the linkage is already too short in which case the pressure plate does not retract to release the clutch disk. Either condition is possible. After new components have been installed the need for an adjustment is likely.

Good luck,
Peace

 

Thanks for the tip. Having never disassembled this particular slave cylinder, I wasn't sure how it worked. But, low and behold, a couple of nights ago, I siphoned off the old black fluid and replaced it in the master and raised the pedal up. I went out yesterday and the slave had filled with fluid and I had a pedal again! Up on the ramps it goes. Saved me a lot of money. Think I'll order that ZSPEED kit and replace them both. Sounds like a common occurrence.

 

That's what I did once I started having pedal drop issues. Ordered the Wilwood MC and replaced the SC along with a stainless line to get rid of that hard line OEM nonsense which likes to trap air bubbles. I also swapped out the reservoir using this write-up.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html

Bleeding is now super-easy with my Motive bleeder!