For those of you that have done this mod. (adding a switch so you don't have to pull the brake fuse every time)

I have two questions:

1. Has anyone considered rewireing it to the current TC switch instead of adding a new switch?

2. For those of you that done this, did you have any problems with the cel? Any advise or instructions would be greatly appreciated.

I have seen a couple threads where a switch was added but never just connected to the TCS.

 

This is probably a stupid question, but why do you have to pull the brake fuse to do a burn out?

 

He's talking about doing whats basically a power brake, where you hold down the brake while gunning the accelerator so you can do a standing burn out. This is how someone with an automatic transmission does a burnout. But when the ECU detects the the break is pressed while the accelerator is also being pressed it decreases the power output by about 30%.

In order to get around this you pull the break fuse tricking the ECU into thinking the break is not pressed.

This is often used for warming up drag slicks at the track before doing a 1/4 mile run.

Veddic

 

I can do a burnout without any problems with this mod or not.

People just call this the burn out mod or the brake fuse mod. And Veddic is correct. That is why some people reference this mod as the burn out mod. Others call it the brake fuse mod becasue you have to take out the brake light fuse.

 

Mine is just an on/off relay and no CEL ever.

Good idea on the TC that would be awesome keep us posted!

 

Thanks guys for the info! That would be cool if you tied it to your TC switch.

 

OK, I have a question: for best launch on an auto, is it better to power-brake and bring the RPMs up to X RPM, then release and floor it (in which case, would the ECM be cutting power unless you pull the brake fuse?) or is it best to stand on it from idle without any power-braking?

 

i have subscribed to the theory of 30% power cut, but i honestly think that it just wont let you rev past 3k rpm. 'cause even with 30% power cut, you could still rev past 3k and more than likely could still do a burnout. go out and try it and youll see that all it does it hold the rpms right at 3k. i've had this switch installed forever and havent had a cel go off. also you might want to install a switch that has a clear on/off setting or light to indicate on/off. during the day it can be a little disconcerting to not know for sure if your brake lights are on or not.

 

That is why my switch is under a bright RED N20 arming swich as a precaution, good point.

 

I too have an on/off red lighted switch that has never caused any problems. Most tracks require brake lights while going down the strip so sometimes it's necessary to hit the switch back right after the burn out. IMO, this mod is also needed for manual transmissions!!

 

I'm glad you guys said something.

So all of you that have switches and have done this mod don't have it wired so the brake lights work at the same time the mod is on/engaged?

I would ideally like to have this wired so when I hit the tcs that this mod is on (so to speak) but also so the brake lights work as well. I thought when the tcs light comes on (showing the tcs is off) that it will also show me the mod is engaged. However, after hearing from you guys it sounds like the lights don't work when engaged.

Is everyone wired up the same way and do your brake lights not work? This would be a problem then because I also drive without tcs on. That would mean I would never have brake lights.

 

I don't think there is a way around losing the brake lights and it can be a track hazard. Let's say you are in the left lane and need to turn out or in the right lane ahead of the other guy and want to make the first turn out, he doesn't know you are braking. It is a PITA and lucklily hasn't been an issue for me because if I am not several car lengths ahead I will wait for them to turn out even if I have to go all the way to the last (3rd) turn out.

At 115 mph I don't have time to be looking for switches

 

i agree with max. i dont think there is a way to wire it so that you retain the use of your brake lights. i have only looked into wiring the switch the one way (which originally was suggested by skiddazle, so he might have some other ideas).

 

Thanks guys, I will PM skiddazle.