How in the hell did a stock Z beat me?
#41
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"WOW ur lucky and should be gratefull ur dad bought u this car no matter if its an auto."
I think that i have already said that i pay for the payments... Did i not?
Speedracer... thanks for the advice and info
I think that i have already said that i pay for the payments... Did i not?
Speedracer... thanks for the advice and info
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bellz,
you not only did you get out driven....but your car is freaky slow...and your only 18 so that accounts for the attitude![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
you should still be grateful that you don't have to pay insurance....thats got to be expensive given the car, your age, and the fact that your a male driver (albeit not a very good one)
you not only did you get out driven....but your car is freaky slow...and your only 18 so that accounts for the attitude
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
you should still be grateful that you don't have to pay insurance....thats got to be expensive given the car, your age, and the fact that your a male driver (albeit not a very good one)
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Originally posted by neur0sis
...were you in auto, or auto-manual mode? If you just mashed on the gas, your car will shift gears sooner than he would have.
...were you in auto, or auto-manual mode? If you just mashed on the gas, your car will shift gears sooner than he would have.
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"you not only did you get out driven....but your car is freaky slow...and your only 18 so that accounts for the attitude"
Whats up with these Cali ppl? You must be a winner yourself talking $hit to an 18 yr old.
Whats up with these Cali ppl? You must be a winner yourself talking $hit to an 18 yr old.
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04-bell-z,
Don't get discouraged about your 5AT,just keep saving your money for some good mods and practice your driving skills and before you know it you will be beating the manuals. not all manual drivers, but a good bunch of them don,t know how to launch their cars and usually sit their and spin their tires while your already half way down the road.
Don't get discouraged about your 5AT,just keep saving your money for some good mods and practice your driving skills and before you know it you will be beating the manuals. not all manual drivers, but a good bunch of them don,t know how to launch their cars and usually sit their and spin their tires while your already half way down the road.
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Originally posted by Speedracer
1. Your mods are only good for about 6-7hp total which is completely insignificant at this overall power level. The individual variation between stock motors is more than that.
2. You have an automatic
People have unrealistic expectations from NA mods. you need to get a 25-30hp gain before you will be able to see any meaningful difference in performance. The "heart" of a good NA set-up is really in the cams. Everything else is just icing on the cake. When doing NA mods, ANY weak link will degrade the entire system, and since you are talking about modest gains at best to begin with, any deficient copmponent will drastically hurt performance. This will happen with FI also, but there is so much more overall power, that performance isn't affected nearly as much. If you change ALL the plumbing alone, expect 15hp or so. Reflash the ECU and you will get another 10hp. Add cams/flywheel and you will be good for about a 40hp total gain. That's the best you can do with the stock block and stock compression ratio.
1. Your mods are only good for about 6-7hp total which is completely insignificant at this overall power level. The individual variation between stock motors is more than that.
2. You have an automatic
People have unrealistic expectations from NA mods. you need to get a 25-30hp gain before you will be able to see any meaningful difference in performance. The "heart" of a good NA set-up is really in the cams. Everything else is just icing on the cake. When doing NA mods, ANY weak link will degrade the entire system, and since you are talking about modest gains at best to begin with, any deficient copmponent will drastically hurt performance. This will happen with FI also, but there is so much more overall power, that performance isn't affected nearly as much. If you change ALL the plumbing alone, expect 15hp or so. Reflash the ECU and you will get another 10hp. Add cams/flywheel and you will be good for about a 40hp total gain. That's the best you can do with the stock block and stock compression ratio.
Um whatever
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First off, from a roll you may have been at a disadvantage against the 6MT depending on which gear you were in and where your rpms were at since the 6MT gearing is more forgiving (closer gears, more aggressive final drive) of where you are at in the rpm range. Also, it doesn't take much of a reaction difference for someone to end up a car length ahead right off the bat while at a roll or from a stop. Its really only fair when there is some third party giving the signal to go!!
As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase. You do not need cams to get a peak 40hp increase. In fact I would wait for cams until one at least has their intake and exhaust mods completed with a good set of headers included. Then adding cams will be a more noticable increase and you will not feel like the $1000 for cams + the extra $1000 for their installation was a waste. There is no doubt cams will make a difference, but I still do not have cams, no TQ converter, no Drag radials or slicks, and no change in the final drive. My car pulls like mad and I am running mid 13s with 19" street tires. I am going to put the stock 17s back on this weekend and hopefully hit low 13s. If the information about the TQ converter is true I am hoping for around 12.7s maybe even lower with some DRs.
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Originally posted by zzzya
As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase.
As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase.
UR Crank Pulley
Crawford Plenum
My guess, injen contributes 1-2 hp. Crank pully 3-5 hp. Plenum 3-5 hp. Combined, maybe 6-10. Drive train loss between stock 5AT v. 6MT, probably 10-15 hp. Varriable difference between VQ motors, 5-8 hp. Add it up, and the loss is no surprise at all.
For a AT to beat a MT, I would think that mods of 20+ hp on the AT v a stock MT is necessary. And, it's not going to happen with just an intake, pulley and plenum.
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Doesn't high-stall TC make for an uncomfortable daily driver? Think about it: you wish to start slow, but the thing won't hook up until 3K RPM... *JERK*... and you chirp-start... I don't wish to contemplate how it switches between gears when upper gear drops RPM below 3K... another chirp?
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Originally posted by bascelik
Doesn't high-stall TC make for an uncomfortable daily driver? Think about it: you wish to start slow, but the thing won't hook up until 3K RPM... *JERK*... and you chirp-start... I don't wish to contemplate how it switches between gears when upper gear drops RPM below 3K... another chirp?
Doesn't high-stall TC make for an uncomfortable daily driver? Think about it: you wish to start slow, but the thing won't hook up until 3K RPM... *JERK*... and you chirp-start... I don't wish to contemplate how it switches between gears when upper gear drops RPM below 3K... another chirp?
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I must say im lucky when i dynoed on the dynojet my z with just a Frankencar intake was getting 240 hp at the wheels and i am a auto. I know you manual guys are in my ball park. I later installed the underdrivepulley, grounding kit and injen daul exhaust so i must have more now.
Glen
Glen
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Originally posted by zzzya
Um whatever
First off, from a roll you may have been at a disadvantage against the 6MT depending on which gear you were in and where your rpms were at since the 6MT gearing is more forgiving (closer gears, more aggressive final drive) of where you are at in the rpm range. Also, it doesn't take much of a reaction difference for someone to end up a car length ahead right off the bat while at a roll or from a stop. Its really only fair when there is some third party giving the signal to go!!
As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase. You do not need cams to get a peak 40hp increase. In fact I would wait for cams until one at least has their intake and exhaust mods completed with a good set of headers included. Then adding cams will be a more noticable increase and you will not feel like the $1000 for cams + the extra $1000 for their installation was a waste. There is no doubt cams will make a difference, but I still do not have cams, no TQ converter, no Drag radials or slicks, and no change in the final drive. My car pulls like mad and I am running mid 13s with 19" street tires. I am going to put the stock 17s back on this weekend and hopefully hit low 13s. If the information about the TQ converter is true I am hoping for around 12.7s maybe even lower with some DRs.
Um whatever
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
First off, from a roll you may have been at a disadvantage against the 6MT depending on which gear you were in and where your rpms were at since the 6MT gearing is more forgiving (closer gears, more aggressive final drive) of where you are at in the rpm range. Also, it doesn't take much of a reaction difference for someone to end up a car length ahead right off the bat while at a roll or from a stop. Its really only fair when there is some third party giving the signal to go!!
As for what Speedracer said, your mods are good for more than 6-7HP. Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms to redline where you should be seeing a 15hp or more increase. You do not need cams to get a peak 40hp increase. In fact I would wait for cams until one at least has their intake and exhaust mods completed with a good set of headers included. Then adding cams will be a more noticable increase and you will not feel like the $1000 for cams + the extra $1000 for their installation was a waste. There is no doubt cams will make a difference, but I still do not have cams, no TQ converter, no Drag radials or slicks, and no change in the final drive. My car pulls like mad and I am running mid 13s with 19" street tires. I am going to put the stock 17s back on this weekend and hopefully hit low 13s. If the information about the TQ converter is true I am hoping for around 12.7s maybe even lower with some DRs.
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Originally posted by 04-bell-Z
Yeah... thats right... how did a stock Z beat me... I have
Injen CAI
UR Crank Pulley
Crawford Plenum (Just Installed)
Is there a way that my plenum hasnt read into the comp. yet? Or is that even true?
And are there "freak" Z's out there?
This really pisses me off and makes me wanna sell my $hit...
BTW mine is an auto and he was a stick...
(in the other room throwing up)
Yeah... thats right... how did a stock Z beat me... I have
Injen CAI
UR Crank Pulley
Crawford Plenum (Just Installed)
Is there a way that my plenum hasnt read into the comp. yet? Or is that even true?
And are there "freak" Z's out there?
This really pisses me off and makes me wanna sell my $hit...
BTW mine is an auto and he was a stick...
(in the other room throwing up)
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Don't blame the car. Your mods are pretty much insignificant when compared to a completely stock engine and the automatic and the manual have equal performance. Doesn't matter what tranny you got, the better driver will win stock for stock.
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People simply put too much stock into "Peak" HP numbers. Its a combination of AUC and proper gearing to take advantage of that power that makes a difference, especially on the road. I could take a stock 5AT against a heavily modded 6MT, drop a 350EVO final drive in the 5AT and smoke the 6MT all day long with much less HP. Peak HP is a fun number but that is all. As far as being highly tuned stock, well sure it isn't too bad given the stock parts. I have decreased my 1/4 mile times by 0.7 seconds, which includes going from a 17" wheel setup to a 19" wheel setup, street tires. I added a couple new mods and will see just how well the car responds. Still no cams yet, just can't seem to find it in me to give someone $1,000 for the install.
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Yeah i know he is a better driver than me... But seriously, how can u become a better driver when you have an auto... all u have to do is slap shift... how much better can u get at that?
#59
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Just look at my sig. Stock Z in manual mode running high 13s. I raced a guy who had a 6spd Z w CAI(ran 13.5). He got me by a 1/2 car to 100 about 1/4 mile. I wish I had the same axle ratio as the 6spd 3.35vs 3.55 manual. Oh he was powershifting.
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Originally posted by zzzya
Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms
Your peak HP might have increased 8-10hp but your AUC (area under the curve) should be much improved especially above 4k rpms
![Wink](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)