Are you REvup or non Revup? And what kind of set up are you running (intake, spacer, exhaust, cats, headers, etc?). Im finally starting up this project havent decided which way to go because i dont want to wind up running to lean.

 

^^^???

 

'05 enthusiast - so non-Revup, AAM intake/spacer, Strup headers, AAM single 3" exhaust, AAM TPs, UR pulley/flywheel, AAM ECU tune.

 

wHAT type of bit did you use on your router when you routed the top portions of the front 2 runners. I finally got a lower plenum and ready to go to town Also, what technique and tools/bits did you use when you port matched? This info will help out greatly.

 

whats a honing tool? What was your technique and tools/bits did you use to port match?

 

Your explanation is awesome . When it comes to most manufacturers though, wavelength resonance almost never used. While having a computer crunch them all day would be excellent and simple fix, for the majority of the time, they do not work it out, in such small factory runners and plenums. The wave would have to bounce between the closed valve and the throttlebody butterfly several times to have any affect(about 4 times), so a lot of systems manufacturers have instead incorporated are variable runners. The most common motors I can think of is the h22a1 (prelude). They have separate butterlies that open the short runners at VTEC switchover to keep ait moving quickly in the combustion chamber to be burned and slower moving air with the long runners to keep low rpm TQ. While the TQ isn't comparable to our V6, they are for other 2.2 liter motors. What I did when the VQ plenum last year I keep the surface of the plenum rough and increased the size of plenum's volume everywhere possible. Smooth surface only makes sense in the trumpets (our lower manifold) and in ITBs.

The air in our manifolds do not have a direct path so we need to keep it turbulent until it enters the chambers. The roughness helps to maintain a small boundary, a sort of air buffer between the slow moving air (because of the bumps) and the quicker moving air the buffer contains. Unfortunatly I no longer hace the dynos for my Talon otherwise I could have shown everybody the difference between a P & P manifold and a ported one. The ported manifold ended up creating more TQ and HP that the P&P one did. While the dyno speaks the truth the theorized explanation was that the slipery slope of porting & polishing allowed air to run into itself in the manifolds curves, like sliding on ice (excuse the analogies but they are the best I can do). The ported manifold's bumps creates turbulent air so the rest of the moving air is able to tumble over itself and on into the chamber. This acts like bearings or even the wheels of a skateboard. The person riding the board is able to better negotiate turns and corners like those found in a manifold than sliding in quickly and hitting a wall like on an ice rink without skates

 

I ended up replacing my single 3.5 " exhaust for true dual, its definitely a plus on the butt meter

 

i didnt read the entire thread but i did my lower/lower plenum collecter...not sure if anyone has tried this...what do ya think?? should help the tt kit breathe a bit more...hehe

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...nt=350z003.jpg
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...nt=350z004.jpg
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...nt=350z005.jpg

 

Did you port these yourself? If so, what were your steps and tools used? How did you determine and execute the size and shape of the port?

YOur knowledge will be greatly appreciated.

_Mike

 

a lot of dremel action...my buddy is a machinist and his helped a bunch...i will talk more with him since he did "most" of the work!

 

sweet... my main inquiry is just how you determined the size and shape and how you applied those dimensions

 

 

accroding to my buddy he port matched the gaskets first..so closest to the edge...then worked his way into each chamber...just tried to make it even....didnt really "use" dimensions...gotta have a feel for it according to him....yea i kno hes not much help....

 

I don't think this is true. I recall a simplified rule of thumb being used to calculating the distance of the runner (based off of a formula) since exact accuracy is not required. Computer crunching not required. The resonance waves as you say can be cumulative through multiple bounces as it travels at the speed of sound back and forth through the runner, but the wave bounces off of the low pressure zone (plenum), not the throttle plate. So it's really only the runner length that's important, and even if it's short, as long as a multiple of its length works out to the appropriate rpm target, it'll still show gains.

 

well i haven't made much progress on my plenum working mainly due to time and not have the spare cash laying around to buy a couple of lowers but i had some free time so i finished sand blasting on my upper. not sure if i'm going to paint it or powder coat it or what though yet. i'm also working on an idea i recently had about some intake work for greddy tt kits to get rid of the mushrooms of death and keep heat away from the filters. but here is a couple pics of my upper.

 

what did the sand blasting actually do? Did it make the exterior more gritty? What was the purpose of doing this? Looks nice and clean though...

 

mainly it was to take away the smoothness of the metal that i welded into it and overall cleaned the entire plenum without taking away the grittyness. if you look at it really closely it actually added a little more fine grit to the grit that was already already there. it looks alot more smooth in the pics than it really is

 

A sand blast surface paints and powdercoats very nicely and has the best possible adheason.

 

yeah i'm not sure which i'm going to do yet or even what color i would go with if i do paint or powdercoat it, i have this powder that makes things look polished, its call almost chrome. its the lazy mans way of polishing something and i might go with that. i'd leave it how it is now if i knew it would stay so nice looking, i could powdercoat it with clear but that yellows over time so i'm not sure, there are so many options heh.

 

Anodize would be trick.

I can't recall ever seeing that.