^^^nevermind...it's concave down in case anyone is wondering.

 

hey bleu, or anyone else for that matter...i look at the diff mount and it doesn' tlook right to me. could anyone take a picture of theirs? i need to see the orientation of the rubber piece, and black metal spacer. any help would be greatly appreciated.

also, i did take my car out to the track yesterday. the LSD does not like low speeds after a hard day at the track. after the last session, before i went home, i heard a loud clunk come form the rear end. i could also hear it when turning at low speeds. after driving it, it went away. i changed the oil at 750 HARD miles and it is the most putrid smelling thing you could imagine (coming out of a car). it made my garage stink in less than a minute!

 

you need to put the rubber thing in between the diff and the black plate.

you will need to change oil at least once if you put in a new lsd. it puts out a LOT of crap when its new. I've re-stacked mine to 80% lock because 60% was too mild for my liking. as for the noise.. it will clunk a bit when you first drive the car after its been sitting for a while.. wheels need a few turns to bead oil back onto clutch plates.

 

thanks bluenetizen. i was actually wondering about the black cone shaped spacer, but i finally got it. it was right the first time, but the clunk/jiggle scared me so i had to make absolutely sure.

 

by the way, did, or do you have any problems with the diff burping out oil through the breather? i did yesterday before the oil change, so i need to observe.

 

cool write up

I've installed a KAAZ 2-way LSD in my 240sx race car pumpkin before and I think I might be doing it to my Z in the future.

Just a few questions. Have you had any issues shimming the diff ? IE. was the cusco carrier the exact offset for the ring gear as the stock carrier ? I know my KAAZ carrier dropped in directly keeping the OEM shims in their original positions.

I know for a fact that if you do not shim it properly it will cause loud whining from the diff, will wear out your gears and cause overheating and power loss. Did you check your backlash with a feeler gauge and tooth contact pattern with contact grease on the teeth for proper contact ?

As for the break in and clunking, the manual for the differential you have should have a break-in procedure such as doing figure 8's while clutching-in during the turn and engaging during the straight. This will help seat the clutch plates to prevent damage for maximum performance. As for the clunking, its normal for it to be loud and it will never end with an aggressive clutch-type LSD.

As for the oil changes ? The diff oil in my race car calls for Motul PA90 or the KAAZ LSD oil, and it states it has to be changed every 3000km, but I change it every event, in order to keep the wearing-down process slow. How often do you change the oil in your differential ?

I've daily driven my race car last year for all 3 seasons (excluding winter) and attended 17 track events and had no problems with it what so ever.

 

bad *** write up bro! this is exactly the DIY I needed! thanks a million... ow, how's the lsd holding up? I'm planning to get the same lsd you have plus the 4.083 fd...

 

Can anyone confirm this. Trying to get alist of parts together

 

you also need new ring gear bolts

 

nice writeup. would like some more pics of the actual step by step. has anyone else done this in their driveway or garage?

 

Im resurrecting this, because I am going to be trying this soon with my 4.08 set. I still have to order the install kit, but when it goes down ill probably start my own DIY thread for it and post my questions in here.

 

haha good to see my old post is still giving some hints for others.. cant believe its been 6yrs already

 

Yeah it's been a while.

I still really appreciate you taking the time to write this. Hopefully I can do this install without really screwing something up.

My ring and pinion are in and sitting in the cabinet in the garage.

 

I have a quick question. I am putting 4.08's in my car and I am trying to figure out if the bearing races need to go in the case first or finish pressing on the front pinion bearing with both races left loose on the pinion gear? Hope that makes sense
Thanks

 

not quite understand what you mean there, and its been so long since I installed it to remember everything in there.. haha

I am pretty sure that I put everything on the pinion gear before putting on the flange, I pressed the bearing with the spacer etc in the same order that was packed in from factory.

I still have my z and its still going strong, did not have to replace the clutch plates yet, although I dont drive it much nowadays..!