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Oil Change 101 - What you need

Old 06-16-2007, 06:57 PM
  #61  
Agentman03
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14 bolt cover
Attached Thumbnails Oil Change 101 - What you need-oilchg27_650.jpg  
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Old 06-16-2007, 06:59 PM
  #62  
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Filter & Drain Plug , real Eazy Access ..
Attached Thumbnails Oil Change 101 - What you need-oilchg23_650.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:41 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Agentman03
Filter & Drain Plug , real Eazy Access ..
do you have an oil cooler setup on that?
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Old 09-02-2007, 09:08 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by SteveZ
It had better be OK, I have used 5W30 Mobil One for 31k miles - no issues, plus living in a cold climate (New England) I prefer it at least for Winter.
Make that 39k miles, I had to go a long time between changes (for me) and exceeded 7k miles. Still no measurable oil burned, '04 G-Coupe. 5W-30 Mobil 1.

Also have to take issue that 10W-30 "stays on the upper end components longer" - I also use 5W-30 in my KA24DE (U13 first gen Altima) and my SR20DE (B13, first gen Sentra SE-R). Just changed the VC gaskets on the U13, top end had residual oil on cams, etc. Had not started the engine in weeks, and it's warm out. Also polish finish, Zero "visible" wear (not even the slightest dulling of the cam lobes) at 127k miles. Bottom side of VC clean as can be, too.

Not to dredge up the old "dino-vs-syn" discussion, just to point out one supposed advantage to syn is there is bonding of the oil better into the surface layer of the metal matrix, so you retain some lubrication even when the engine's been sitting - not to be confused with visible oil, this would be at the molecule level.

Who knows? None of my Nissan's burn any oil that I can measure, they all get syn Mobil 1, 5W-30, usually 3500-5000 mile interval depending on the car and usage. With 39k, 127k, and 130k on 3 completely different Nissan engines, it works for me.
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:44 AM
  #65  
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This is an excellent thread, worthy of stickiness.

For the sake of future readers: when is the best time to change your Z's oil for the first time? Stick with the standard 3000 or 3750 (depending on plan), or earlier due to the break in?
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:08 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Where can i get those washers for the drain plug? Can i use 1 washer maybe 2 or 3 times?
HAS ANYONE FOUND THOSE WASHERS AT NAPA OR ANY MORE CONVIENT AUTOPARTS STORE??

- J
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:27 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
HAS ANYONE FOUND THOSE WASHERS AT NAPA OR ANY MORE CONVIENT AUTOPARTS STORE??

- J
Checker, Autozone, Advantage - they all carry washers like these.

I just ordered my last bag of 10 from Courtesy Nissan, you don't save much from a chain, and save yourself a trip.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:03 PM
  #68  
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great write up. i just changed my oil for the first time. i bought a new oil plug as oppose to just a new washer and it cost me about $6 at the nissan dealership. my old oil plug looked pretty worn already so i decided to replace it.
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:58 PM
  #69  
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Is this correct or incorrect...?? Use 5W-30 on lower temp areas/states and use 10W-30 in hot climate areas/states?? So use thicker oil in hotter climates and thinner oil in colder climates???
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:59 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by stiv View Post
If your Z is lowered and you prefer to do your own maintenance and don't wanna deal with jackstands, I recommend a set of Race Ramps. I just dicovered them.

They're light, durable and have a profile that lends itself well to just about any lowered sportscar.

They're a bit pricey (around $200) but they're well made and worth it for me since a few of my cars are pretty low.
That would be convenient, but my car is dropped with a lip kit and i have to run over a piece of wood to fit my jack stand under my car haha. Works fine for me except for when the wood doesent want to stay where it is when your trying to run it over :/. PITA.

OP, good post !
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:57 PM
  #71  
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anyone lowered using the rhino ramps? I wanna buy them but i dont think even wood wood help. lowered on gf210's and shine amuse front
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:29 PM
  #72  
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In my last oil change I bought some drain plug washers from AutoParts and 3000 miles later, I noticed that there was oil in my parking space... Next time I'm going to buy it from the dealer. Lesson learned.

I use RP 10w30 and K&N oil filters
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Old 02-20-2010, 05:36 AM
  #73  
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You guys might want to check this out, I don't have one yet but would like to get one installed. QuickOilDrainValve.com
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Old 02-23-2010, 11:50 AM
  #74  
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Hi! I'm new to this forum, as I just purchased my first 350Z last week. If you would like twice the filtering capacity of the K&N HP-1008, try their HP-4001. The HP-4001 has the same internal specifications as the HP-1008, but it's physically twice the size. Do you realize that the Honda Insight with its 1.0 liter engine uses the same oil filter as our 3.5 liter 350Z? I've been using physically larger filters for over forty years on Vettes, Jags, Porsche's, Lotus', BMW's and normal street cars...WITHOUT a problem. Here are the specs of both filters:

Part HP-1008 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 2.86 in (73 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.69 in (68 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M20 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Bypass Valve: Yes
Weight: 0.5 lb (0.2 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Height: 2.91 in (74 mm)

Part HP-4001 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oil Filters
Height: 5.08 in (129 mm)
Outside Diameter: 2.99 in (76 mm)
Thread Inside Diameter: M20 x 1.5
PSI Relief Valve: 11-17
Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
Style: Canister
Bypass Valve: Yes
Weight: 1.2 lb (0.5 kg)
Product Box Length: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.15 in (80 mm)
Product Box Height: 5.93 in (151 mm)

And...for those that will ask, "If a larger capacity filter is better, why didn't Nissan use one?" Answer: The same reason Nissan did NOT use ANY ATF filter...higher costs for the consumer. It's far more profitable to replace engines and transmissions or, if you're lucky, change lubricants more often, than to have a decent size filter or any filter, as far as the trans is concerned. Also, Nissan recommends "mineral oil". I would, too...if I owned Nissan! ANY brand synthetic of the same relative viscosity and type used ANYWHERE (engine, trans, differential, power steering, etc.) is a far superior lubricant to ANY brand non-synthetic...PERIOD! However, if you want "real" synthetic oils, you must purchase 100% synthetics, such as, Amsoil, Red Line, Total, Motul, Mobil ESP and all oils that are sold outside the USA with the same exact name here in the US. Even though Castrol Edge costs big bucks...it is NOT 100% synthetic and most other Mobil 1 oils are NOT 100% synthetic. They and most all the "synthetic" oils found on the shelves in the US are "fully synthetic" legally, but are made from out-of-the-ground oil and are considered "hydocracked" or super refined "dino" oils. 100% synthetics usually cost more. Why the deception? Back in 1999 Mobil took Castrol to court because Castrol Syntec claimed and still does claim to be synthetic oil (it's hydrocracked) and Mobil (and no one else) could sell their 100% synthetics for the same price as Syntec. The case was arbitrated out of court by someone NOT knowledgeable in lubricants and Castrol won and was allowed to sell their "hydrocracked" products as "fully synthetic". Mobil and everyone else said great and with few exceptions (see above), sell hydrocracked/super refined lubricants as "fully synthetic"! Being it was arbitrated in the US, nowhere else in the world can a container of oil/fluid say synthetic, UNLESS it's 100% synthetic (made from 100% synthetic base stock). Yes, you might use or burn more oil at first, but that's just because your engine/trans is clogged with sludge and crud to include the piston rings...unless you change your engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles or before and your ATF every 20,000 or before, because the synthetics are cleaning out all that crap! Check your engine's oil cap to see what I mean (my oil cap was full of sludge). If you do convert to synthetics, replace the filters at half the recommended interval for the first year or until your oil/ATF aren't getting dark/dirty (broken-down sludge and crud in the oil) so quickly! MOST IMPORTANTLY...install a Magnefine ATF filter or other ATF filter ASAP regardless of whether or not you use synthetic ATF AND drop the pan on the engine and trans to clean the sludge and crud. Why put clean oil in a filthy pan and contaminate the oil? Failure to clean the pans and change filters sooner than normal MAY cause your engine and/or trans to fail due to loosened crap when using synthetics or high detergent additives! I've changed the engine oil and filter and added Sea Foam to help clean the engine and will change to synthetics all around in 1,000 miles. My Magnefine filter and Red Line lubricants are already ordered for that change. Thanks! Charlie
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:32 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by zxsaint View Post
I've heard its better to fill up the new oil filter before attaching it... its been standard practice for me for a while.

Anyone know if this is really necessary?
Factory service manual factors in all of that when they say 5 quarts
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:59 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by zxsaint View Post
I've heard its better to fill up the new oil filter before attaching it... its been standard practice for me for a while.

Anyone know if this is really necessary?
yes if you don't you run the risk of cavitating the oil pump.
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:47 AM
  #77  
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How many quarts does the HR Engine take? My manual didn't come with the car.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:38 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by WayneTN View Post
OK, so you passed [b]

2. Remove the underpanel - Using the ratchet (or cordless driver for speed) and 10 mm. socket, remove all 14 of the screws holding the black plastic underpanel, leaving the one rivet-type connector in the center of the panel. Then, as ares has stated previously, remove that connector with the standard screwdriver by prying up on the center (not the outer ring). The center will pop out some and you can then remove the whole connector and panel. This will take 3-5 minutes.
For those of you wondering "Is this really necessary? Isn't there an access hole in the underpanel?"

well yes there is, however - because there's so much oil sitting in the pan (4.9L!) when you take the plug out, the oil shoots almost sideways, I'm fairly convinced that if I had not taken the shroud off, most of this oil would end up on top. Plus as a bonus, while you're waiting for the oil to drain, you can degrease and hose down the shroud and in all reality, removing it really only does take a couple more minutes - less minutes I would think, than you would spend cleaning up the mess if you didn't and you avoid the hassle of trying to fit that filter through the access hole.


Just my .02 - for people like myself who may be tempted to try and skip this step, just don't.






Thanks for the writeup. :-)
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:47 PM
  #79  
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I havnt done a change on my car yet but figured ide check it out before i did.. Simple but i dont understand why a new washer for the drain bolts needed. Ive never done this on any other vehicles. Also why doesnt someone just buy a washer that doesnt need to be replaced all the time?? lol i just dont understand the concept.. I guess ill understand it when i get under there to do a change soon..
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:37 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by MaximumPwr View Post
zxsaint, You can try that method, but since the oil filter on the Z is installed sideways and not straight up I am thinking that would be a big messy mistake. I might be wrong, so you try it and get back to us and tell us how that went.
Hahaha, I got a huge chuckle out of this... Great write up.
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