Assembly of my new Built Short Block
08-30-2007, 04:39 AM
#62
Well everyone, there is good news and bad news.
First the Good News...The car Starts!!!!! Hurray!!!
Bad News, I have 2 small oil leaks, 1 fuel leak, and I'm not sure about the injectors sitting properly.
First the oil leaks: 1) by the driver side oil return line from under the turbo. I will have to remove the hard pipe check the gasket, maybe add some gasket maker and re-install. That should take care of that one.
2- the AAM oil pan spacer had a small leak. I dropped the oil and removed the spacer, added a fresh coat of gasket maker and re-installed last night. Should be fixed.
Fuel line. I currently have only the stage 1 from CJ Motorsports. I have been trying for a couple of weeks to get the stage 2 but CJ is a little behind on this task. The compression fitting that mates the hard OEM feed line from under the car to CJ's Up line sprung a leak, probably from all of the movement while installing stuff. I was forced to cut the compression fitting off of the hard line and temporarily use a short piece of hose and clamped it down. This is only a temporary fix until the stage 2 arrives. (That was fixed)
Next the car will not hold a steady idle at all. In fact if I am not on the gas, the car won't start. I also noticed I was down to 1/4 tank of gas...
I remember when installing the driver side fuel rail that the front end(towards the bumper) did not sit perfectly flush as did the rear side. So perhaps if the injector is not seated far enough down, that would cause a fuel problem in piston #2 and possibly #4 as well. (Just a thought)
So I guess I will remove the plenum, and re-visit the injectors to try to get them to sit properly.
Radiator fluid went in...2 big bottles completely and 1/2 container of water, but the temp gauge did not move much, so I think there must be some air trapped inside. Suggestions please.
Thats it for my first attempt to start her up in four months and with a new engine and tranny.
Question for anyone who may know. While running my last Turbonetics set up and adding cams, it was necessary to have the idle bumped to 900rpm which was performed by the dealer.
Question: Do you think having left the car disconnected from the battery for 4 months would cause the ECU to forget the idle was bumped, in other words, is it possible for the ECU to lose that data and fall back to normal idle? Because last night the car was unable to hold any kind of idle...
First the Good News...The car Starts!!!!! Hurray!!!
Bad News, I have 2 small oil leaks, 1 fuel leak, and I'm not sure about the injectors sitting properly.
First the oil leaks: 1) by the driver side oil return line from under the turbo. I will have to remove the hard pipe check the gasket, maybe add some gasket maker and re-install. That should take care of that one.
2- the AAM oil pan spacer had a small leak. I dropped the oil and removed the spacer, added a fresh coat of gasket maker and re-installed last night. Should be fixed.
Fuel line. I currently have only the stage 1 from CJ Motorsports. I have been trying for a couple of weeks to get the stage 2 but CJ is a little behind on this task. The compression fitting that mates the hard OEM feed line from under the car to CJ's Up line sprung a leak, probably from all of the movement while installing stuff. I was forced to cut the compression fitting off of the hard line and temporarily use a short piece of hose and clamped it down. This is only a temporary fix until the stage 2 arrives. (That was fixed)
Next the car will not hold a steady idle at all. In fact if I am not on the gas, the car won't start. I also noticed I was down to 1/4 tank of gas...
I remember when installing the driver side fuel rail that the front end(towards the bumper) did not sit perfectly flush as did the rear side. So perhaps if the injector is not seated far enough down, that would cause a fuel problem in piston #2 and possibly #4 as well. (Just a thought)
So I guess I will remove the plenum, and re-visit the injectors to try to get them to sit properly.
Radiator fluid went in...2 big bottles completely and 1/2 container of water, but the temp gauge did not move much, so I think there must be some air trapped inside. Suggestions please.
Thats it for my first attempt to start her up in four months and with a new engine and tranny.
Question for anyone who may know. While running my last Turbonetics set up and adding cams, it was necessary to have the idle bumped to 900rpm which was performed by the dealer.
Question: Do you think having left the car disconnected from the battery for 4 months would cause the ECU to forget the idle was bumped, in other words, is it possible for the ECU to lose that data and fall back to normal idle? Because last night the car was unable to hold any kind of idle...
Last edited by rrmedicx; 08-30-2007 at 04:42 AM.
08-30-2007, 06:52 AM
#64
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Question for anyone who may know. While running my last Turbonetics set up and adding cams, it was necessary to have the idle bumped to 900rpm which was performed by the dealer.
Question: Do you think having left the car disconnected from the battery for 4 months would cause the ECU to forget the idle was bumped, in other words, is it possible for the ECU to lose that data and fall back to normal idle? Because last night the car was unable to hold any kind of idle...
Question: Do you think having left the car disconnected from the battery for 4 months would cause the ECU to forget the idle was bumped, in other words, is it possible for the ECU to lose that data and fall back to normal idle? Because last night the car was unable to hold any kind of idle...
08-30-2007, 07:05 AM
#66
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
I switched it to 0. before starting or attempting to start. Should it be on 1 or zero?
I think when it is on map 1 that is where my Turbonetics tune is stored.
Not 100% though.
I think when it is on map 1 that is where my Turbonetics tune is stored.
Not 100% though.
Try using the maps I post below as a 'starting point' Let me know how it goes..
Upload the map which is GreddyTT750cc28d.txt to map #1
Upload GreddyTT750ccpara28d.txt to the parameters
I am heading out of town for a few hours for a meeting so I will PM you my number if you need to call me. If I dont answer, leave a message and I will call you back..
K
Last edited by Kenk2; 08-30-2007 at 11:59 AM.
08-30-2007, 08:20 AM
#67
Wow Ken, that is freakin' Awesome. I will be calling you before I even attempt to upload this stuff into the UTEC. I only tried to tamper with it once, and I don't even remember how I did it.
I knew I would have been better off leaving the UTEC the way it was, but even then it would only have been programmed for 440 cc injectors. Maybe just a touch better, but still rough.
Great advice. Thanks again.
P.S. This map above is for Greddy twins with 440cc injectors? What is the map specifically intended?
I knew I would have been better off leaving the UTEC the way it was, but even then it would only have been programmed for 440 cc injectors. Maybe just a touch better, but still rough.
Great advice. Thanks again.
P.S. This map above is for Greddy twins with 440cc injectors? What is the map specifically intended?
08-30-2007, 11:44 AM
#69
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
P.S. This map above is for Greddy twins with 440cc injectors? What is the map specifically intended?
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
P.S. what format do I save the file on my hard drive?
Last edited by Kenk2; 08-30-2007 at 11:57 AM.
08-30-2007, 12:01 PM
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For some reason the files I posted are corrupt....
HERE is the page to download the files.. You want the Greddy 750cc map and parameters.. 2 separate files..
Ken
HERE is the page to download the files.. You want the Greddy 750cc map and parameters.. 2 separate files..
Ken
Last edited by Kenk2; 08-30-2007 at 12:03 PM.
08-31-2007, 08:35 PM
#71
Ken, just hung up with you and man, what a pleasure it is to deal with someone as knowledgeable as yourself. Thanks for helping me to upload the map & parameter setting to my UTEC. I feel a lot better now. I will be re-installing the UTEC Sunday and I will give the car another try. I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
09-01-2007, 07:54 AM
#72
Let me just throw this one out there...To my understanding the UTEC only takes over control once you go into "high" performance mode...right? I understand that it has little no nothing to do with start up and idling. If this is the case, maybe there is a mechanical problem. I guess I'll wait and see. Sunday can't come soon enough.
09-01-2007, 10:04 AM
#73
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Let me just throw this one out there...To my understanding the UTEC only takes over control once you go into "high" performance mode...right? I understand that it has little no nothing to do with start up and idling. If this is the case, maybe there is a mechanical problem. I guess I'll wait and see. Sunday can't come soon enough.
Randy.. yes you are correct.. the UTEC kicks in when in open loop.. When you are driving around town under normal conditions, the ECU is controlling the engine unless you gun it..
Dont worry man I am 100% sure your motor is just fine.. You bought it from a good company and they know their $hit...
09-01-2007, 10:10 AM
#74
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Let me just throw this one out there...To my understanding the UTEC only takes over control once you go into "high" performance mode...right? I understand that it has little no nothing to do with start up and idling. If this is the case, maybe there is a mechanical problem. I guess I'll wait and see. Sunday can't come soon enough.
09-01-2007, 10:21 AM
#75
Originally Posted by captj3
If your having a issue with your idle or closed loop running to rich, you have to lean it out in the 0% column since the utec can't scale the injectors.
Any help on this would be appreciated. I can give better feedback once I get the UTEC with new map loaded into the car tomorrow. I will let you know how it runs.
09-02-2007, 02:27 PM
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rrmedicx you are going to have some trouble having the utec sacle your injectors down. I just noticed that you're running 800cc injectors. The utec doesn't work to good with injectors that large. You may need a different EM for the car to run properly. Or you might be able to have your ecu reflashed for those injectors.
09-02-2007, 02:46 PM
#78
Well the verdict is in. Definite success with the base map from Turbo XS. Thank you Kenk2. Problem now is still a pesky little oil leak behind the OEM oil cooler. I guess I'll just order a new gasket and replace it...Hopefully that will solve that problem.
I still have only made a temporary fix for the stage 1 blunder I made, damaging the compression fitting that attaches to the up-line that feeds the rails. I am waiting now for a stage 2 upgrade which will remedy that problem for good. Thanks Charles at CJ-Motorsports.
Once I have the 1 oil leak and the 1 fuel line replaced, I will be taking her for a test ride around the neighborhood.
The car idles beautifully. Sounds mean. I revved it a bit. I made sure that the thermostat was working. The heat was blasting. I had the car up to 140 degrees just from idling and revving a bit (Oil Temp Gauge). Revved pretty smooth. A couple of little hiccups but I don't think anything major.
Problem: I now have a CEL light. My OBDII code reader said it was P0300 a cylinder misfire.
Any suggestions on what to check. I think it could possibly be the car is running a bit rich, but I'm not too sure.
Do you think this is normal? for a new engine...?
I still have only made a temporary fix for the stage 1 blunder I made, damaging the compression fitting that attaches to the up-line that feeds the rails. I am waiting now for a stage 2 upgrade which will remedy that problem for good. Thanks Charles at CJ-Motorsports.
Once I have the 1 oil leak and the 1 fuel line replaced, I will be taking her for a test ride around the neighborhood.
The car idles beautifully. Sounds mean. I revved it a bit. I made sure that the thermostat was working. The heat was blasting. I had the car up to 140 degrees just from idling and revving a bit (Oil Temp Gauge). Revved pretty smooth. A couple of little hiccups but I don't think anything major.
Problem: I now have a CEL light. My OBDII code reader said it was P0300 a cylinder misfire.
Any suggestions on what to check. I think it could possibly be the car is running a bit rich, but I'm not too sure.
Do you think this is normal? for a new engine...?
