Assembly of my new Built Short Block
09-02-2007, 07:31 PM
#81
Originally Posted by Jay'Z
BTW I always get that misfire code 0300.. I wouldnt worry.. Especially since your running TT with built internals.. Once you drive the car in boost youll always get the codes 0172 and 0175 = bank 1/2 rich.. I do..
09-02-2007, 07:46 PM
#82
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
I would feel a lot more comfortable if it wasn't there. Can anyone else with a built motor confirm this? Not that I don't believe you, but I was just curious. This is still all new for me. Not too many built Z's in my neck of the woods. And if there were, I don't get o drive there cars to know about there cel lights problems if any...
But youll most likely get the other codes i was talking about..
09-02-2007, 08:30 PM
#83
Thats exactly how I was able to discover what the code was...I have a code reader. I erased it once, but I don't want to overlook anything that could be important which is why I am seeking some back up information from those of you who know. This is still somewhat new to me. I have never owned or built an engine before this experience.
I do believe the tune will help things along. But I still need to break the motor in before I get it tuned. As instructed by my engine builder, I will drive it 50 miles or so drop the oil, run it another 1000 miles drop the oil again and then if all is good, then I can put it on a dyno. Until then , I don't want to kill my car prematurely or show up for a dyno run with potential bugs with the car.
I do believe the tune will help things along. But I still need to break the motor in before I get it tuned. As instructed by my engine builder, I will drive it 50 miles or so drop the oil, run it another 1000 miles drop the oil again and then if all is good, then I can put it on a dyno. Until then , I don't want to kill my car prematurely or show up for a dyno run with potential bugs with the car.
09-02-2007, 08:40 PM
#84
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Thats exactly how I was able to discover what the code was...I have a code reader. I erased it once, but I don't want to overlook anything that could be important which is why I am seeking some back up information from those of you who know. This is still somewhat new to me. I have never owned or built an engine before this experience.
I do believe the tune will help things along. But I still need to break the motor in before I get it tuned. As instructed by my engine builder, I will drive it 50 miles or so drop the oil, run it another 1000 miles drop the oil again and then if all is good, then I can put it on a dyno. Until then , I don't want to kill my car prematurely or show up for a dyno run with potential bugs with the car.
I do believe the tune will help things along. But I still need to break the motor in before I get it tuned. As instructed by my engine builder, I will drive it 50 miles or so drop the oil, run it another 1000 miles drop the oil again and then if all is good, then I can put it on a dyno. Until then , I don't want to kill my car prematurely or show up for a dyno run with potential bugs with the car.
09-02-2007, 08:53 PM
#85
Let me check with Kyle. I don't want to run too rich or too lean and risk hurting the engine right now, but at the same time, I don't want to embarrass myself by going to a dyno and springing leaks all over the place. I just want to take 50 miles to get the bugs out before I run it.
09-02-2007, 08:57 PM
#86
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Let me check with Kyle. I don't want to run too rich or too lean and risk hurting the engine right now, but at the same time, I don't want to embarrass myself by going to a dyno and springing leaks all over the place. I just want to take 50 miles to get the bugs out before I run it.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
09-03-2007, 11:17 AM
#87
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Yea Randy that is what I was talking about over the phone.. You can take it to the dyno now, break it in a little bit, drop the oil, get a 'minor' tune then do the 1000 mile break in with a semi decent tune.. After the 1000 miles get her back to the dyno/ tuner and go full on low boost/ high boost tune...
Great info and suggestions Jay!
Great info and suggestions Jay!
09-04-2007, 04:27 AM
#88
It was a tough road, but I'm glad to finally be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks to everyone for all of the advice and support throughout this challenging battle with my car. It has been fun and a tremendous learning experience. If I could do it again, I probably would.
09-04-2007, 09:44 PM
#90
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Thanks for the info. Thats a great write up. Thanks for sharing. More folks should know about this. ^^^^ That kind of changes things. Once I fix these 2 minor leaks, I plan to hit the highway...hard without killing it in boost.
I'm personally doing an easy 800-1000mile break in and heading straight to the dyno for tuning. 550 miles on the car already and I still have the 100 mile drive back to the shop. I swear this is the hardest part of the whole process!
Anyway, congrats on the self install of the built motor! That's quite an accomplishment for a DIYer at home on stands. I look forward to seeing the results!
09-05-2007, 04:47 AM
#91
Originally Posted by taurran
Anyway, congrats on the self install of the built motor! That's quite an accomplishment for a DIYer at home on stands. I look forward to seeing the results!
09-06-2007, 07:35 PM
#93
Well good news and bad news.
First the good news. I fixed the fuel leak by upgrading to the stage 2 CJ-Motorsports kit. Very easy to install and worked flawlessly.
Here is the point where it was leaking previous to the stage 2. This looks much better.
I pulled out the oil pan to look inside and try to find out where the oil leak was coming from.
Couldn't really see any problem areas as I could clearly see a steady bead of RTV throughout the entire perimeter. So I tightened all of the bolts attaching the oil pan to the block and closed it up.
You can see pretty much every seam has a red bead of RTV.
I don't understand where the leak is coming from.
'
Finding this in my oil pan scared me a bit.
Not really sure what it was. but I will be sending this pic to my short block builder. I think it might be a part of the oil squirter. I heard through the grapevine that with older model pistons, that there was insufficient clearance for the pistons in regards to the oil squirters, and in fact Arias pistons were at one point notorious for breaking these oil squirters off.
Regardless of a tiny oil leak, I took the car out for a spin. It ran a bit hot at first...because I was low on radiator fluid. Took care of that.
I was running at about 200 degrees on average while just cruising around the neighborhood. No boosting... I think this is a little high, but I am told that new engines run very tight and tend to be hotter than motors that are already broken in.
Gotta check into this. Drove beautifully. Gotta get used to the new clutch. Activates very close to the top. Maybe I can adjust it somehow. Gotta look into this one too.
First the good news. I fixed the fuel leak by upgrading to the stage 2 CJ-Motorsports kit. Very easy to install and worked flawlessly.
Here is the point where it was leaking previous to the stage 2. This looks much better.
I pulled out the oil pan to look inside and try to find out where the oil leak was coming from.
Couldn't really see any problem areas as I could clearly see a steady bead of RTV throughout the entire perimeter. So I tightened all of the bolts attaching the oil pan to the block and closed it up.
You can see pretty much every seam has a red bead of RTV.
I don't understand where the leak is coming from.
'Finding this in my oil pan scared me a bit.
Not really sure what it was. but I will be sending this pic to my short block builder. I think it might be a part of the oil squirter. I heard through the grapevine that with older model pistons, that there was insufficient clearance for the pistons in regards to the oil squirters, and in fact Arias pistons were at one point notorious for breaking these oil squirters off.
Regardless of a tiny oil leak, I took the car out for a spin. It ran a bit hot at first...because I was low on radiator fluid. Took care of that.
I was running at about 200 degrees on average while just cruising around the neighborhood. No boosting... I think this is a little high, but I am told that new engines run very tight and tend to be hotter than motors that are already broken in.
Gotta check into this. Drove beautifully. Gotta get used to the new clutch. Activates very close to the top. Maybe I can adjust it somehow. Gotta look into this one too.
Last edited by rrmedicx; 09-06-2007 at 07:37 PM.
09-07-2007, 07:13 AM
#95
I may have to take the engine back out to fix an oil leak. Not 100% for sure, but it makes no sense to hit a dyno if you have any leak at all. So far the car runs a little hot which as I understand from my engine builder is normal.
Can anyone confirm if 200 degrees for a brand new engine is acceptable?
This again is with brand new oil and a brand new engine, just basic driving around town...no boosting. Thanks.
Can anyone confirm if 200 degrees for a brand new engine is acceptable?
This again is with brand new oil and a brand new engine, just basic driving around town...no boosting. Thanks.
Last edited by rrmedicx; 09-07-2007 at 08:25 AM.
09-07-2007, 07:30 AM
#96
Looks like I may have used the wrong bolt and pushed through a stopping point. That may be the cause for that piece of metal after all.
Thanks Kyle for the heads up.
Perhaps this picture better describes where I am experiencing my pesky oil leaks:
I am afraid I may have to remove the engine to better address this issue.
Anyone have any idea of how to possibly remove the upper oil pan and keep everything else intact...Stupid question, I know. Just being lazy.
Thanks Kyle for the heads up.
Perhaps this picture better describes where I am experiencing my pesky oil leaks:
I am afraid I may have to remove the engine to better address this issue.
Anyone have any idea of how to possibly remove the upper oil pan and keep everything else intact...Stupid question, I know. Just being lazy.
09-07-2007, 09:13 AM
#100
I am open to this suggestion, but I have not done it before. If anyone can give me some pointers, I would appreciate it.
What would be best?
Remove the wheels...thats easy, what else has to happen? Disassemble the suspension? I'm not sure.
Can someone please give me a breakdown of what would be necessary to accomplish this task. This might be able to be done in one day versus the 2 to first remove the engine and then re-install it.
Thank you very much.
I thought the engine mounts were attached to the upper oil pan, my bad. LOL Thanks Ken.
What would be best?
Remove the wheels...thats easy, what else has to happen? Disassemble the suspension? I'm not sure.
Can someone please give me a breakdown of what would be necessary to accomplish this task. This might be able to be done in one day versus the 2 to first remove the engine and then re-install it.
Thank you very much.
I thought the engine mounts were attached to the upper oil pan, my bad. LOL Thanks Ken.
