rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Alright, I just spoke to a friend of mine and he informed me that in case the control arms are in fact attached to the crossmember that I should be prepared to use a special tool to remove the ball joints at the ends of the control arms, and probably be best off replacing the control arms altogether.
I guess I should contact Nissan and see what they cost.
Unless anyone has a better idea?

Damn $220 each side!!

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

You'd need a cherry picker to hold it from above (kinda risky though).

What I would do is: take off the wheels, brake calipers (just tie them up and let them hang), and pull the rotors off. Then, you just unbolt the control arms from the wheel spindle, then unbolt the crossmember and the other large brace, and the sway bar. Then the whole crossmember w/ control arms attached will drop right down. Oh, will need to drain the p/s fluid and disconnect the lines by the reservoir, since the steering rack is attached to the crossmember. I never replaced my control arms, so i wouldn't worry about it.

At this point, since you've gone this far, you may as well just go a couple steps further and take off the front clip of the car and just walk the crossmember, motor/trans out together to work on it.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

From what I remember I won't need a cherry picker since the engine mounts are attached to the actual block and not the upper oil pan, like I originally thought.
So perhaps if I can successfully drop the crossmember then I can re-set the oil pan like I originally thought. What will it cost me, but some power steering fluid and some oil. Not too shabby. Any special tool(s) needed to remove the lower control arms and tie rod ends?

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

But the engine mounts attach to the crossmember, which you're dropping. Something's gotta hold the motor up

Mine just popped right off. The FSM states that you should use a ball joint removal tool though.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

The thing that would suck about taking off that upper pan while the motor is still in the engine bay is A. scraping all of that old sealant off of the block B. getting the pan sealed back up properly...it'll be kinda tight in there.

Kenk2

iTrader: (7)

If its that much work, just pull the motor.. No need to try and cut corners now...

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Well, it wasn't all that long ago that I removed the engine and tranny all in one shot. It took me the morning half of the day to remove all of the accessories, pullies, belts, disconnecting the harness and all of that, but this time around, I can leave everything connected except the AC compressor, I could also leave the harness connected and just disconnect from the other end (at the ECU) under the passenger dash and pull the harness end out instead of disconnecting every accessory...save some time, and while it is out of the car, drop the pan and re-set it.

I could probably make a day of it. Any thoughts?
Probably the smartest,most thorough method. I'd have to borrow the engine hoist again.

What is the safest part of the engine to attach to when lifting both engine and tranny out together? I was told the exhaust manifolds are a safe grab? Not too sure though...

Last time I disconnected the water pipe behind the engine and attached to the top 2 tranny holes and the front 2 biggest bolts in the center of the timing cover.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

I'd make a 3-point harness from the big square opening in the timing cover, to the trans bolts you are talking about. I suppose you could use the manifolds too, but I'd rather use the trans bolts.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Hoist is on the way. Should have it available for tomorrow am.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

Good luck! Did you get that map switch yet?

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Not Yet. But thanks for checking in...maybe tomorrow.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

I picked up the hoist this am.
- I started by dropping the oil.
- Removing the lower oil pan cover
- Removing all of the bolts that support the upper oil pan
- Dropped the sway bar to make some more room
- Had to drop the test pipes...What a pain in the ****
- Removed the engine supports nuts, so the engine could be lifted.
- Made some room up top by removing the intake pipe and throttle body
- Disconnected the intercooler
- Lifted the engine about 4-5 inches
- Lowered the cross-member to make room to pull out the oil pan.
- Removed the old RTV and cleaned the surface
- Applied a new fresh bead of Grey RTV
- Closed the upper oil pan without torquing just yet
- Replaced the sway bar.
- Had trouble raising the Cross member - will finish tomorrow

I'm beat...But I think the hard part is over, just put everything back.
The car should be done hopefully tomorrow evening...

After that, I still want to put some miles on it, but I will need a road tune.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

Damn, what a great thread. I have been reading this whole thread for the last hour thoroughly. You have done a lot so far. You have a lot of heart doing this yourself.

BTW, i know i'm late but with the pilot busing, there are two ways of taking it off.

a. Fill the hole with grease and use a clutch alignment tool and put it in, then hit the end of the alignment tool with a hammer and it will build a hydralic force and pop the bushing out.

b. Make sure the flywheel is off the car. Use a pilot bushing remover. They sell it at local auto part stores. Comes right out.

I had to do B since i messed with it for over three hours. Mine was stuck in there good.

keep up the good work.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Thanks for the compliments...I tried both methods, but I guess the grease I used may not have been thick enough, also at that time I was forced to use the generic alignment tool initially and perhaps it didn't create a tight enough seal to really create enough pressure. I essentially was forced to tear it out. I think the best method so far, assuming you don't have the bushing removal tool you could use a device (I think its called a dye) to make a thread into the pilot bushing and essentially thread it out. That was the best plan.

My method was crude but effective. It would be done much better next time.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

I tried the "dye" as well. It didn't work since my pilot bushing was made of brass. Dont' worry, mine came out messed up as well. I was getting really frustrated since it had to come out because there was no turning back because of how messed up it was.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Car is running well. I drove it to a local meet yesterday. Performed well.
Still have a very small oil leak around the oil cooler/warmer. Apparently even after buying a new OEM O-ring gasket from Nissan, I don't think I set it in correctly. I will have to try again tomorrow am. It is still a very slow leak. Maybe 1 drop every 7 seconds even after its warmed up.
Its very strange. I will have to try and take a photo, since no one seems to know what I am speaking about. When you unfasten the oil cooler and turn it over, you will see a metal lip where the o-ring can either fit inside of it, or be stretched a little and fit outside of the lip. I tried both configurations and still manage to have a leak. I think I must have damaged the o-ring when I secured the oil cooler when it was mounted on the inside of the lip. Then when I attempted to remove the o-ring and stretch it to the outside of the lip, it was still leaking probably because the gasket/o-ring was already damaged. Although on visual inspection, it seemed fine. I'll buy another one and try again.

Anyway, the car is running a bit overly rich, so I am avoiding stepping hard on the gas to prevent from "washing" the cylinders out.

In other words, as Julian explained to me, if I continue to run the car with its current settings/map setting I could do more harm than good. The extra fuel in the cylinder can wash off the necessary oil from the walls of the cylinder and create a bad situation for the rings before they get a chance to settle in... So I will pay him a visit Friday evening and hopefully get a primary tune/road tune. Then I will feel a lot more comfortable about breaking her in properly.
Thats it for now.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Well, the frustration got the better of me. I went to the Nissan Stealership for some professional advice and to adjust my clutch. It didn't take long for the whole entire crew of mechanics at the dealership to be gathered under my car staring at all of the modifications. Once I got them all out of the way, it became very evident that the entire oil pan would have to come down, yet again to insert the proper O-rings into the 2 channels on the passenger side of the oil pan. Apparently RTV will not do the trick.
NOTE TO SELF...No Short Cuts here fellas!!! Get the proper O-Rings and use them or else you will be re-visiting this area once again like I just did.

The dealer adjusted my clutch so the trip to the dealership was not a total waste of time. So I raced home and started the project again.
This time, it went very smooth and quickly. It only took me 6 hours to drop the cross member, raise the engine and lower the oil pan enough to clean it and re-set it with the appropriate grey RTV. I inserted the O-rings and put it back together. Well this is going to delay my tuning session scheduled for this evening.
I got in touch with Julian at MRC. We are set for Monday evening, based on his suggestion to let the RTV cure overnight. 2 days will most definitely be better than 1 day. Monday it is for the tuning session.

This again is a base tune, no big dyno numbers expected. The goal is to get the car running cleaner than its current state.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Thanks guys for the props. I appreciate the support.
Can't wait to share the results. Keep in mind, I still have to get at least 750 miles on the Z before I can even attempt some big numbers.

I will be shooting for a low boost setting @ 12 psi and a high boost map @ 16psi.

Julian is going to try to get my boost solenoid hooked up with the UTEC so I won't need the HKS EVC6 afterall. We will see how that works out.

Kenk2

iTrader: (7)

IMHO, that is the way to go with the UTEC.. You can ditch that EVC 6 and you will be golden.. J can tune that Biotch with some sick numbers using the solenoid and having the UTEC control boost.. The pressure is damn skippy with the UTEC and a +- ratio of like .2psi all the way to redline..

Congrats bro! Keep me posted.. When you called me last night I had no phone as I was trying to unlock my iPhone to work with T-Mobile.. All is good now so hit me up when you need to..

K

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Yeah, I almost forgot that I bought a Perin Boost Solenoid a while back. I wasn't even thinking about linking the 2. I kind of had my eye on the HKS because of its reputation for precision boost control. Apparently the UTEC can essentially do the same. The HKS is just added bling. I still may make use of it down the line, but I am not sure.

It would be much easier to click one button on my map selector and change both boost settings and the fuel map. Rather than clicking the map selector and then trying to remember to press a button on the secondary device to control the boost.

Should be Good!