california

Hello everyone. I wanted to know if is possible to read fuel trims on an 06 350z? I have been trying to access them via my xtool d7w scanner and I cannot locate short and long term fuel trims.
I welcome any input.
Thanks!

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

I have an XTOOL D8, they should be under the engine live data section. Sometimes you need to scroll down the menu (multiple pages) to find them. I'll admit, I haven't tinkered much with my D8 on my 06 Revup Z, primarily used it so far on Toyota, VW, and Honda. It's been an excellent scanner!
Good Luck!
-Icer

california

Thanks for getting back. For what ever reason my xtool d7w is not providing? the trim results. It works great with my late model Camry but no luck with the Z. I saw a YouTube video showing trims on a 1999 Camry. I will continue searching my scanner but I am afraid that either the scanner is defective or the Z does not provide those values to a scanner? Lastly, I contacted Xtools with the same question I posted here. However, I have not hear from them yet.

california

This is the report I was able to save.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

It looks like the terminology might be different for Nissan (not 100% sure).

But PIDs 5 and 6 might be your trims. (Air Fuel Ratio Alpha Bank-1 and 2). I just googled this term while writing, yes this is in fact your fuel trim.

Quote from Search Engine: "Air Fuel Ratio Alpha, also known as A/F Alpha, is a term used in Nissan vehicles to describe the short-term fuel trim correction made by the Engine Control Unit (ECU). It is a measure of how much the ECU adjusts the fuel injection pulse width to maintain the ideal air-fuel ratio."

Not sure what they call Long Term Fuel trims, maybe it's not something Nissan thought was important to include?

The way I read the data chart is this. 100% trim is good/healthy. If you're above (+X%) or below (-X%) under warmed up or normal operating conditions, then something is wrong.

Btw, some of the data PIDs here are showing throttle and MAFs for both Banks. It looks like you have an VQ35HR (High Rev) engine, not a DE Revup. Are you sure it's an 06 with a VQ35DE? I don't remember seeing TPS and MAF for Bank 1 and Bank2 on my Z's live data, but this was a while ago and I was just flipping through things.

Cheers!
-Icer

california

Thanks for your respond. I appreciate your input. My z is an 06. Did they make the HR in 06?
Regarding the fuel values, I was thinking the same " 5 and 6 might be your trims" I also looked at 4 and 25 could also be the ones? I believe fuel trims should be within -10 to +10 in the recommendation sections. On the scanner, the recommendation show up to +-5.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

No they did not make an HR in 06, at least not that I'm aware of. I know they changed the ECUs for the introduction of the Revup VQ35DE, so perhaps they added support for the HR engine as it was already in the works. I'm guessing the throttle and maf pids for both banks are identical in the case of the Revup. Meaning they are displaying data from the same component(s), so kind of redundant.

Cheers!
-Icer

california

Thank for getting back. I got some feedback from a friend who had similar issues with his wireless scanner as well. He mention that sometimes using a wired OBD II scanner the trims can be access. I am going to locate a wired scanner that can provide live data. I am kind of hoping that my problem might be a dirty filter or perhaps a bad pump. If is not, I will take out my trusty diy smoke machine and check for vacuum leaks.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

When it comes to leaks...

If the engine is bone stock, check your PCV hoses. Both Bank 1 and Bank 2 hoses, if original, then they've probably hardened like a rock. They start to split down the sides near the clamps. There's also a PCV cross-over hose that connects the valve covers, it's located up front, right under the intake manifold, behind the upper timing cover. It's kind of hard to replace with the intake manifold still on the engine, but not impossible with the correct hose pliers. If you still have the stock intake tube, check the flex pipe section (ribbed) and also the plastic hose nipple that feeds the Bank 2 PCV hose. It's possible the intake tube could have cracked or the 90-degree PCV hose fitting. Also, check the brake booster hoses, this connects to the false firewall where the battery is located (hardline connection). It crosses over to the driver's side where it exits and connects into the booster.

What symptoms are you experiencing? Any CEL/DTCs present?
Cheers!
-Icer

california

Thank you so very much. My engine does have a JWT pop charger. I also have headers and high flow cats with an aftermarket Y pipe. The car sat for almost two years outdoors.
I had my 06 z {Manual 35k original miles) seating for on a trickle charger for about 2 years. Since I had to take it to get it smog, I did the following..
1. In effort to prevent any piston wall damage I Added about 1oz of the following: Marble Mystery oil and 30w oil. I also added about 1/4oz of liquid wrench penetrating oil. I was careful not to allow any foreign particles in to combustion chamber.
2. Thoroughly clean the engine compartment.
One day later, I manually turn the engine about 10 times clock wise from the crank case.
When I turn on the engine the process was as expected. Big white cloud of smoke coming from the pipe. Similar to Sea Foam Treatment. However,
The process did not work as plan. The car began to misfire and ran terribly. However, I noticed that I had wrongly connected the 4 and 6 coils. The problem was quickly fixed when I replace the coil connectors to the corresponding coils.
In an effort to use up the old fuel, I took the car for a freeway 45 minute test run. The car ran great for all the time during the short highway test run. The next day, I ran the card hard on the streets for about 5-8 miles. I was lucky and the car ran out of gas as I was pulling to the gas station. I just glided for about 30 yards. After putting about 3 gallons and 1/4 of a container of Lucas fuel system cleaner the car ran good for about 5 miles then it began to backfire and running terribly. The car stalled several times but I was able to travel about 8 miles to make it home. At home I speculated that the fuel pump burned due pump overheating it due to low level of gas in the tank and running it hard.

I did check the pcv valves and hoses. They look excellent. What does not look good are the serpentine belts. I will be changing them. Lastly, I will check the brake boost hoses.

I thank you for taking the time to help me out! I will follow your sage advice and report back!
G.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Yes, if you ran the fuel tank on fumes even for a brief period, then most likely the fuel pump was compromised/damaged. These modern pumps are both cooled and lubricated using the fuel in the tank. Even with the fuel gauge on Empty, the main pump body will remain submerged in the tank to prevent this from happening. This is commonly referred to as your "fuel reserve." By driving to the point of stalling out the engine, the pump probably overheated. When dealing with old petrol, you're better off using a fluid transfer pump to remove it from the tank, they can be purchased on the cheap. Store the old fuel in a proper container and use it for yard equipment or something like that. Alternatively, you could drive the car until it starts to get to 1/4 or near E, then re-fill with fresh quality fuel and throw in some fuel system cleaner (I prefer BG 44K).

You probably experienced backfires and poor running conditions because 3gal of fuel is simply not enough if you ran the tank dry. Any G-forces exerted on the fuel in the tank from driving will cause it to flow/pool away from the pump, thus causing the pump to suck air/vapors and starve your engine. I think you would need a minimum of 5 gallons. The total tank capacity is 20 gallon on 350Zs.

Putting a little oil in the combustion chambers of each cylinder is a good idea since the engine was out of service for so long, but you need to let it sit for a few days to soak in. Too much oil and not giving it time to soak risks hydro-lock or bending valves (with plugs installed of course). Turning the engine over by hand is also a good call. But to really get the oil flowing and prime the system (top end and bottom end), you would need to rotate the crank a lot! Whenever I let my Z sit in the garage for a while (2 weeks+), before startup I use the "Clear Flood" method to prime the oil. Simply hold the gas pedal to the floor (that's right!) and then turn key to ignition on. Since the car is equipped with E-Throttle, the computer detects the gas pedal position and activates the clear flood mode, in short it disables your fuel injectors while still allowing the engine to crank. This is a simple/great method for priming oil in your engine block quickly and safely. This is a good method to use after an oil change or when priming a car equipped with a new external oil cooler. I let the engine crank for 5-10 seconds, I don't know exactly how many revolutions that is (I suppose it depends on the health of your battery/starter), but that should be enough for the oil pump to build pressure and prime the block.

Cheers!
-Icer

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

A lot to read, but when storing the car do so on a full tank of gas, not empty.
I have never ran into issues doing that and on average I've been filling up twice a year.