Hey Logan what type of transmission do you have? Cause I know they use the GTO tranny and say that it works best with that application.

 

F - body ls1 trans. As long as you change the shifter lever out which i have already done shouldnt be a issue. The old shifter worked fine just felt like poop.

 

+1, i had to purchase the gto shift lever for my camaro trans, ran about $120, otherwise the sikky shifter would go into only half the gears lol. logan, is reverse hard to get into for you??

 

I'm using 1.7 rockers (Jessel Sportsman shaft mount) and I have to use B&B 1/2" valvecover spacers, it's a tight fit, but do-able with the Sikky mounts. I would bet if you used the Fueled mounts you'd need to remove the pre-firewall, which I may do anyways to save some weight. I'd like to get some numbers on how much the Fueled kit moves the engine back.

 

The first time i installed it i didnt know that and only had 1-3-5-R easy swap to the GTO one. But now after installing the updated shifter they shipped to me i dont have any of the forward gears so no 1-3-5-R right now. Everything worked perfectly before i sent my shifter off this car has been running and driving as a DD for a while now , just felt like poop and way way way to much play. Now im getting them to overnight me back my crappy shifter this is getting old fast. Pretty sure ill be getting with todd at fueled to get one of their kits and get rid of this horrible shifter.

 

wait so you have half your gears again lol?

 

You're going to replace you motor mounts, oil pan, driveshaft and possibly headers just because of the shifter?

 

Subscribed. Love the info in this thread

 

BBS350z - EXACTLY i mean WTF

Quamen - you got it. Im pulling the motor anyways to drill out the spot welds and remove the secondary fire wall. Will be using our companies Brake booster delete with wilwood single outlet master cylinder and relocate my brake lines behind the dash using a in interior brake line kit that i have designed for our chassis.

 

Quick question. How do you guys feel about PCV delete and just venting the crank case thru the filter in the gas cap? I have seen so many conflicting ideas and ridiculous arguments on ls1tech.

I am only asking because I am going to be running ls2 knock sensors on my ls6 and I am pretty sure the ls2 cover wont fit correctly. So I was thinking about just running a billet valley cover and just venting the valve covers to atmosphere thru the oil cap filter.

And I really dont want to run a catch can if at all possible to eliminate the oil issues these motors have.

 

First off... Please don't put gas in your engine as I'm assuming you ment oil cap. Other than that I think it really depends on your setup. I think the NA guys tend to swing towards what you're considering while the boosted guys go with more complex PCV systems. I personally vent to atmosphere. If I were revving higher than 6,500 or were boosted I would connect it to the exhaust to pull a vacuum for safety.

 

i was reading all about the pcv setup, and have a bunch of different diagrams on how to vent it based on n/a, f/i, ls1/ls1 valleys, etc., and i am just running an oil cap vent on passenger side cover and a rear vent on the driver side. seems to be what all the big hp guys are doing anyways, and the car isnt a daily so it wont be seeing too many miles.

 

Whoops. big typo there.

I will be staying NA. Everything I have read says its ok. I will be using this car for my daily so all I would have to do is make sure I change my oil i suppose. The ls1 pcv setup sucks anyways.

How do you run the vacuum off the exhaust? With just a nipple? Wouldnt that get really hot?

bbs350z can you send me your diagrams so I can cross ref.

 

Vacuum off the exhaust is very common in race applications, often called Pan Evac. All you do is weld an angled bung onto your exhaust so that the high velocity exhaust gas passing the bung creates a negative pressure. It actually works quite well because negative pressure will increase with increased exhaust velocity so revving higher will cause more scavenging.

This method is used on NASCAR () and many racecars such as our Porsche 928 Bonneville/Pikes Peak car. On the Porsche we run a Pan Evac system on both headers, each going to their own catch can and from there to their respective valve cover. This was necessary when you spend extended amonuts of time at 7,200 rpms non-stop at Bonneville.

 

Considering buying this car and pulling motor and trans out for my swap. What do you guys think? I could possibly sell some of the rest of the car to make some money back as well..

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2855731211.html

 

You could do pretty well parting the car out, but I would worry about the drivetrain's integrity after a front end smash. It's still a decent option but I would wait and see if something better pops up. You can find good running, salvage title cars for about the same price. If you have the room and the time, I would definitely recommend buying a whole GTO and parting it out.

 

Could I get a copy as well? I haven't put much thought into this area yet.

 

http://www.quickmeme.com/meme/3691aw/

Edit: Fixed for the ballers on a budget

http://www.quickmeme.com/meme/3691u4/

 

yea my setup is just a filter on each valve cover. if any of you more experienced ls guys think i shouldnt do this, or have a better solution please chime in! mind i am f/i.


good ls2 info http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=829128
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...cv-system.html


heres some of the diagrams i have acquired. also note on an ls1 block, the ls2 valley cover will not fit, and the ls6 valley cover fits on an ls1 w/ minor trimming to the block itself.

ls1 pcv-

ls6 pcv (just about identical to ls2 setup)-

ls1 pcv turbo -


ls2 turbo -

ls3-

 

hahaha I have those same diagrams on my computer.. I am going to use a dual set up like this..