i am very confused.
im fairly positive there is only one shifter made by sikky for this swap. and its for a t56 not gto or camaro specific.

could be wrong though.

and most of us have the GTO shifter block with the sikky shifter and are still having issues.

 

Well that's not good news. Anxious to see what your fix is then.

 

I have started thinking about doing an ls swap into my z, just a bit iffy about California rules and such.

 

The fix is use the fueled racing kit not the sikky kit.

 

Well started to take my sikky kit off Friday to trade if for snyperZ's old turbo kit and to change to the fueled racing kit and this is what the end result was.

Didnt notice this while the motor was in the car but touched it and fell right apart. Yet another reason why im glad im using a better kit.




Here is a pic of the turbo kit that i picked up. Taking all the wrap off and taking a look at all of the welds today and then having all the hot side ceramic coated, and the cold side powdercoated. May even have a new pipe made from the intercooler to the TB 3 inch is just to small to have the right throttle response. Also will be using a BW SX400 75mm instead of the pt47-88 that mark was using.

Here is a pic of the kit when mark had it mounted with the PT47-88

 

i honestly think the sikky kit isnt a bad kit other than the shifter i am working on a fix. but we will see what happens.

brew haha - did you ever mess with your shift detents? thats something i am going to mess with before i start fixing the sikky shifter. I dont know much about the detents but i am doing alldata research on how to adjust them.

 

Nope didnt touch them. When i had that problem they sent me back my original one but rebuilt and never had another problem. I thought they were good at first too but after issue after issue i found something much better.

 

You finally got your kit! Awesome! Hey i have a question. What did you do with the other steel line next to the stock fuel line? One is the feed line. Whats the other one and do i just leave it open or what?

 

Not sure if i know what line you are talking about but if you can email me a picture i can tell you. Logandbrewer@gmail.com

Yea i have had my fueled racing kit for a couple of weeks now.

Now im about to start hacking on the frame rail and then re-support it so that i can get this turbo kit to fit correctly.

 

the one i think your talking about might be the evap line. i completely eradicated my evap system. if you get rid of your evap canister out back and still have the stock gas tank itd be wise to cap off those ports where the evap canister connects.

 

I don't care what anyone says but my swap kit is ten fold better than Sikky and Fueled Racing. Zero issues to date and easy to install. (nut hugs myself)

 

Why dont you make some more mounts and sell them at a decent price and make some money.

 

Honestly it wouldn't be worth my time and I don't think many would want a racecar style kit.

 

Well do what everyone else does take them to a local machine shop and have them produce them for you. Holley just came out with ones for the 240sx that cost $296 for engine and tranny mount. They also make the headers for $695 and you know your getting good parts. I wish they would do the same for the z.

 

So do i just cap it off and not worry about it, or is there a li e to connect to the ls?

 

I went with Fueled Racing as well,one thing I really like about their kit is their sump..trap doors is always a win. Plus hearing the shifter issues with the Sikky kit didn't sit with me well. Oh and FR is also producing turbo manifolds for the g/z chassis already, they're just getting caught up with the s-chassis orders for now.

 

Speaking of manifolds.... Whats the trick to get the sikky headers in? I know the drivers side you gotta unhook the steering shaft but the passeneger side is a *****! It seems to be the wrong one or something. It gets jammed in the bell housing mount for the starter and the lower cross memeber. Do i really gotta lift the engine again to get this junk in?

 

if your motors in, you have to unbolt your subframe and pull it down slightly. after taking the ls in an out a few times, i've realized that as your putting the motor in, situate the headers with the motor almost in, lower the motor in and pull the headers back up. i did not have to disconnect the steering shaft this way.

 

Here's a comparision of the GTO shift block (in my hand) and the SS Camaro shift block installed in the transmission. I need to pick up a set of pin punches and I'll be able to get the camaro block off the shift rod. Here's a quick comparison photo. Now you can see the difference in length and location.

 

something else must be off if the ls2 shift linkage in an ls1 trans is causes the shifter to pop out of gear under load.