SangWL

iTrader: (1)

I want only the best, i'm purchasing the pathfinder and want to put in some xenons (HID Kit) cause my eye sight sucks at night.

any suggestions?


sang

guppies211

I got McCulloch 6000k hid conversion kit. 270 from ebay. Only thing that sucks is they are very dim compared to other HID kits. Around the same brightness as stock. Phillips, Denso seem brighter than stock HIDS. Xtec is insanely bright for 6000k. Just experience from owning different hid kits. Id go with OEM denso.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

Retrofit in some nice projectors, get oem phillips ballasts and capsules and be on your way. Stay BELOW 5000K color rating. Any higher will result in reduced light output, less usable light (light scatters easier in fog/rain/mist/snow), and more eyestrain to you the driver on longer road trips.

DO NOT retrofit bulbs (ie McCulloch 6000k hid conversion kit). You need the proper housing in order for HIDs to work properly.

Trust only phillips and osram when it comes to xenon capsules and ballasts. ANYTHING else is JUNK!!!!!!
Good place to research and get oem equipment

If you must get a retrofit bulb kit;
These are the BEST

sponsorsthisway

iTrader: (15)

Ok so i'm not all that up on my lighting terms (maybe i'm dumb) but whats the ballast and retrofitting? Thanks!

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

Most guys that don't have HIDs retrofit HID capsules into the stock halogen housings. Basically, HID capsules (bulbs) don't come in the standard H4, H7, 9006, etc bases. they come in D2S and D2R bases. What this means is that some company must rebase the capsules to fit into a halogen base. Problem is, the HID capsules do not produce light in the same way as a halogen bulb, so the beam pattern is very poor when just retrofiting bulbs.

The best way to get HIDs if you car has stock halogens and an oem HID upgrade is not available is to retrofit actual projectors like these into the halogen housings.

The ballast is a reguired part of the HID setup. What a ballast does is:
The DC power from your car is being turned into AC power to supply the charge needed to power up the HID bulbs. The ballast throws out 23k +/-1-2k of volts to the HID bulbs upon start-up often refered to as warm-up.

how stuff works.com wrote:

The simplest sort of ballast, generally referred to as a magnetic ballast, works something like an inductor. A basic inductor consists of a coil of wire in a circuit, which may be wound around a piece of metal. If you've read How Electromagnets Work, you know that when you send electrical current through a wire, it generates a magnetic field. Positioning the wire in concentric loops amplifies this field.

This sort of field affects not only objects around the loop, but also the loop itself. Increasing the current in the loop increases the magnetic field, which applies a voltage opposite the flow of current in the wire. In short, a coiled length of wire in a circuit (an inductor) opposes change in the current flowing through it (see How Inductors Work for details). The transformer elements in a magnetic ballast use this principle to regulate the current in a fluorescent lamp.

A ballast can only slow down changes in current -- it can't stop them. But the alternating current powering a fluorescent light is constantly reversing itself, so the ballast only has to inhibit increasing current in a particular direction for a short amount of time. Check out this site for more information on this process.

Magnetic ballasts modulate electrical current at a relatively low cycle rate, which can cause a noticeable flicker. Magnetic ballasts may also vibrate at a low frequency. This is the source of the audible humming sound people associate with fluorescent lamps.

Modern ballast designs use advanced electronics to more precisely regulate the current flowing through the electrical circuit. Since they use a higher cycle rate, you don't generally notice a flicker or humming noise coming from an electronic ballast. Different lamps require specialized ballasts designed to maintain the specific voltage and current levels needed for varying tube designs.

jhp1025

iTrader: (1)

I have Mcculloch 8000k

SangWL

iTrader: (1)

interesting, i have to find out what kind of bulb is in the Pathfinder.


sang

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

go to ebay and type in "denso h7" looks like a very nice kit with a nice price. Member "Jun" sells OEM kits for base owners.

sponsorsthisway

iTrader: (15)

So me having an enthusiast with stock HID's, what would be a good upgraded HID to go with? I was thinking of something with a more blue tint. What setup would work best?

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

the higher temp bulbs all have reduced lumens, so you sacrifice light output for color. It's up to you, but I would just stick with the stock bulbs.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

TOTALLY not the way to go.

The color is a factor of your projector, NOT the capsule. Going high kelvin you sacrifice A LOT of light output. at 6000K, you have lost roughly 1/3 the light output of a 4300K-4500K (oem color) capsule. at about 7000K the light output will roughly the same as a halogen bulb.

sponsorsthisway

iTrader: (15)

Guess i'll skip that mod then... Thanx

BJF2K

iTrader: (6)

i like Raybrig 6000K

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the best is OEM - visit your local junkyard