Sequential Rear LED Turn Signal Retro
#81
Originally Posted by NOBI
72c is pretty hot, thats like 176f. what temp does plastic melt warp or discolor?
#82
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I've got the basic sequence circuit board with LED made with using your diagram you posted, using SCR....
I'm not sure but SCR isn't functioning properly...
It's weird that some of the LED doesn't stay on, but some stays on...
I'm not sure but SCR isn't functioning properly...
It's weird that some of the LED doesn't stay on, but some stays on...
#83
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#84
Originally Posted by Dooly
I've got the basic sequence circuit board with LED made with using your diagram you posted, using SCR....
I'm not sure but SCR isn't functioning properly...
It's weird that some of the LED doesn't stay on, but some stays on...
I'm not sure but SCR isn't functioning properly...
It's weird that some of the LED doesn't stay on, but some stays on...
I watched the video and I had the same problem with some of the first boards I made and tried. I'll try to explain this as simple as possible.
The 4017, the component that is outputing the 9 segments, only puts out around 5~6mA per output. For a good majority of SCR's, this is not enough trigger current to make the SCR trip, and stay on, resulting in them coming on, but not locking. I found the perfect SCR that always triggers and latches, but unfortunately I don't have the link with me. I am home for spring break and I didn't bring my computer with my saved emails. As soon as I get home on Sunday, I will post up a link to the SCR's. Nice job on the circuit.
Last edited by Acree; 03-12-2006 at 11:03 PM.
#85
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Originally Posted by Acree
I watched the video and I had the same problem with some of the first boards I made and tried. I'll try to explain this as simple as possible.
The 4017, the component that is outputing the 9 segments, only puts out around 5~6mA per output. For a good majority of SCR's, this is not enough trigger current to make the SCR trip, and stay on, resulting in them coming on, but not locking. I found the perfect SCR that always triggers and latches, but unfortunately I don't have the link with me. I am home for spring break and I didn't bring my computer with my saved emails. As soon as I get home on Sunday, I will post up a link to the SCR's. Nice job on the circuit.
The 4017, the component that is outputing the 9 segments, only puts out around 5~6mA per output. For a good majority of SCR's, this is not enough trigger current to make the SCR trip, and stay on, resulting in them coming on, but not locking. I found the perfect SCR that always triggers and latches, but unfortunately I don't have the link with me. I am home for spring break and I didn't bring my computer with my saved emails. As soon as I get home on Sunday, I will post up a link to the SCR's. Nice job on the circuit.
This is one I got..
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...oductId=119802
What is the use for 10uF?
Is the voltage regulator required? Car power source is not constant, but from 13v-14v they should run fine....
Sorry for all the questions..
Parts from Mouser
Quantity-------------Description------------Part Number
2--------------------555 Timer-------------512-LM555CN
2--------------------Decade Counter-------511-M74HC4017
36-------------------SCR------------------511-P0102DA
2--------------------Volatage Regulator----511-L4940V10
2--------------------1uF Capacitor---------80-C430C105M5U5TA
2--------------------10uF Capacitor--------80-T350G106K035AT
Quantity-------------Description------------Part Number
2--------------------555 Timer-------------512-LM555CN
2--------------------Decade Counter-------511-M74HC4017
36-------------------SCR------------------511-P0102DA
2--------------------Volatage Regulator----511-L4940V10
2--------------------1uF Capacitor---------80-C430C105M5U5TA
2--------------------10uF Capacitor--------80-T350G106K035AT
#87
Originally Posted by Dooly
I saw your list of parts, is that the SCR you chose?
This is one I got..
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...oductId=119802
What is the use for 10uF?
Is the voltage regulator required? Car power source is not constant, but from 13v-14v they should run fine....
Sorry for all the questions..
This is one I got..
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...oductId=119802
What is the use for 10uF?
Is the voltage regulator required? Car power source is not constant, but from 13v-14v they should run fine....
Sorry for all the questions..
-Acree
#93
Originally Posted by Dooly
Any follow up??
I've been waiting for almost a week for you reply...
I've been waiting for almost a week for you reply...
http://store.yahoo.com/webtronics/2n5064.html
To everyone else, prices and information will be posted on May 1st. That is when I plan on starting the group buy.
#99
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actually made a little board for myself... 21 5mm amber LEDs, and another board (for the reverse) w/ 21 18,000mcd 30deg white leds.. still not quite as bright as those Stars, but should be ok.. now the fun is going ot be getting the fixture open and not melting it/breaking it.. hehe.. yours look good, but i can't justify that much cash for lights
#100
Originally Posted by sorphin
actually made a little board for myself... 21 5mm amber LEDs, and another board (for the reverse) w/ 21 18,000mcd 30deg white leds.. still not quite as bright as those Stars, but should be ok.. now the fun is going ot be getting the fixture open and not melting it/breaking it.. hehe.. yours look good, but i can't justify that much cash for lights
Just FYI - a tip on opening up the housings, I found it best to pre-heat the oven to 250 degrees, turn it off, then place the housing in the oven on top of wet cardboard. Let it sit for exactly 8 minutes. Pull the housing out, and it should come apart with a little pull. Good Luck.