IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

So, I've started the process for switching out the orange LEDs that light up the dash guages to blue LEDs. I've finished the AC controls and I must say that it looks pretty sweet. I will try and take some pics tonight and post them. After I had completed it I sort of wish I would have added a little contrast though. Anyways, so this morning I decided that I would start working on the digital speedo, voltmeter and the oil pressure. Unfortunately though I need a little help here. It seems that I ordered the wrong LEDs for the dash. You'll notice that the originals have 4 posts whereas the ones I ordered have only two long posts that stretch the length of the LED. On the board itself there are 4 soldering points. If I use the new LEDs and solder the 4 points on the board to at least connect with the two posts on the new LEDs will this work? See the pic below for a description on the LEDs. Any help would be appreciated.

Robert_K

iTrader: (25)

Subscribe for intrest in seeing pics.

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

I bet that is quiet the time consuming job.

As for the LED question, did you try contacting the Manufacturer of the LED?

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

I haven't contacted the manufacturer. I don't know much about LEDs to be honest. I've been going back and forth with a user on here, Acree, who is the god of LEDs. He knows his stuff so I'm hoping he can help me out considering he's done this mod before. He used red LEDs though.

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

Up in the top left corner of the digital speedo you can see the one LED i've tried replacing. I'm not sure if it's because i don't have a good contact point or if it's because these LEDs aren't compatible.

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

where did you order your LEDs from? I might like to work on this at some point. If yours turns out nice. I think the blue will look good.

momo 350z

iTrader: (11)

i know that a fellow member acree did this already in his z..might wanna try contacting him about this project,as he is the led master..

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

he already has been doing that

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

USN HM 350z,
will post where I got them from along with part numbers once I am sure that these will work for you.

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

Thanks

Acree

iTrader: (29)

Yeah man, I had the same issue. This is one of the things where research, research, research is the only way you can avoid this problem. That's one of the reasons why it has taken me so long to get to this. The leds that you ordered have just 2 leads, obviously positive and negative. The leds that come off the board have 4 leads, 1 positive and 3 negative. You need to take a voltmeter and figure out which of the points on the circuit is positive, and which ones are negative. The leds that I found have the 4 different leads. That is what has taken so long with my project, plus the fact that I had to have a set of custom gauges made.

After you do this, you have 2 options.
One, you can try to remove the negative lead from the circuit board that is on the same side as the positive. This will allow you to solder the led in the factory position, but you also risk damaging the circuit board if you do not know what you are doing.
Two, you can move the led up or down, depending on which of the 4 points on the board are positive, and then just solder the 2 points on the board that contact the led. I'll try and explain what I mean.

If the circuit board leads are configured like this:
+ -
- -
Then you would more the led up to where it is not in contact with the lower negative contacts. Then just solder the led to the 2 upper leads. The same thing would work for a configuration like this:
- -
+ -
Just move it down and solder the anode to the positive and cathode to the negative.

Hope this helps.

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

never mind, I dont even want to try now hahahaha

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

Acree, I got what you are saying as far as moving the LEDs up or down. Will this have any bearing on voltage or possibly sending to much voltage to the LED and blowing it.

I know I should have researched and listened to you but the order was already placed and I leave to go out of town tomorrow and wanted to try and at least get the center console done before I left.

I got in contact with and am having them design a set of guages for me. I'm pretty pumped about this whole project so hopefully it turns out good. I'll keep you posted. I can't wait to see your turn out as well as mine!

Thanks again for all your expertise!!

Acree

iTrader: (29)

Another thing that I was hoping you would mention something about, but haven't yet is replacing the resistors. Every single led on the board currently runs at 1.8 volts. Each led voltage is determined by a resistor in the circuit. As a general rule, green, blue, purple, and white leds run around 3.5-4 volts. Red, amber, and yellow leds, on the other hand, run around 2volts. When you replace the amber led with a blue led without changing the supply voltage, the light output diminishes dramatically, and depending on the characteristics of the led, might not even produce light. So in your case, even IF you have the leads correctly positioned and contacting, the led might not even turn on due to the voltage being 1.8 volts. In order to properly run the blue led, you have to replace the resistor that is in that led's circuit. The value of the resistor will depend on the leds recommended voltage, the supply voltage, and the number of leds in the circuit. Every single resistor that corresponds to a led circuit on the board will need to be replaced. The resistors that you order need to be the correct surface mount package on top of all that. And you also need many different values of resistors so you will have plenty to pick and choose from to match the resistor value needed.

Lamen's Terms: You need to replace resistors on the board so the blue leds will be as bright as the amber.

I should be getting mine in the mail in a few days!

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

Is this going to be true for you as well once you receive the 4 lead LEDs that are backordered? Son of a..!!!! hmmm...That puts a whole new turn on things! Yowzers!

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

I did think that the blue LEDs in the air conditioning control were a tiny bit faded but not too bad! I won't be able to take pics tonight because my center console is in shambles right now but I'll try tomorrow. If all else fails I may end up putting it back together and then waiting for you to finish your project and reordering the parts. We'll see though!

Acree

iTrader: (29)

Hah, yes I will be and already am replacing all of the resistors. I've used the leds I got in so far. When correctly powered, they are a good 200% brighter than the red ones I was using. I just spoke with Alex at BlackCatCustoms and he will be shipping the gauges out as soon as they print them. I've found a different led made by the same company. Mouser is shipping me samples today. If they are as bright as the others and work correctly, I will be completely finished with this project in as little as 3 weeks. I plan on taking pictures of all of the boards along with a full list of which leds need to be replaced along with the correct resistor value.

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

Well, after trying what you said all I can say is....LET THERE BE LIGHTTTTTT!!! Check out pic below!!

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

Are you paying for the samples and could you post a quick pic of the resistors? I'm curious. Also, can you drive around without the gauges attached without setting off the CHeck engine light or something?
Like I said, I'm going out of town tomorrow for three weeks and am considering taking my dash with me so I have something do while i sit in my hotel at night.

Tom

Acree

iTrader: (29)

I am paying for the samples but it's around 8 bucks. And as far as the resistors go, I will have to wait until I get my car back to post pics on the board. It will be another week atleast. It's in the body shop... again. And yes, you can take the gauges out with no check engine light. The resistors are 1206 package. They are about half the size of the PLCC leds.