This summer I'm gonna have to get my car repainted, its got a **** load of acid rain spots from sitting in the damn rain

 

Some of you guys are crazy. It takes a hell of a base to run the supply list up to $2000. Clears are usually $100-$200 a gallon. I just bought 4 quarts (they don't sell it by the gallon) of HOK glamour metallic for less than $200. Reducer and thinner can be had for less than $100 for both. Primer about $70. That's around $600 for top of the line supplies, took some off primer since it won't even typically take a quart. You can get a good paint job for that price if it's the stock color. However you will need to cough up a bit more for a color change. Some of you guys to learn what you're talking about before you go giving "facts".

 

You only have to prime over bare metal, body filler, glaze, or deep scratches. Anyone that primes over a stock clear needs to have their head examined.

 

This is true ^^^

I paint car parts and i would totally agree about no need for primer over a stock 350z paint job. unless its got deep scratches.

and thats just spot repair at most.

-B-

 

My car was rear ended. Replaced all damaged parts (hatch, bumper, quarter panels, etc.). Plus doing a color change. thus everything is getting sanded down. Most of the price goes to cover labor involved, the total paint cost is about $500.

Hope that clears it up.

 

Unless you're going to paint it yourself, most shops do charge for a thing called "labor".

 

I was responding to the people that were saying the supplies would cost the $2000 that he was wanting to spend.

 

Ok, I am sure this was directed towards me. You have 600 for materials, sounds about right. But if you are a DIY going to have to get a air compressor, paint gun's, sandpaper, masking materials, rent a booth or create a booth in your garage, misc tools your going to need to purchase along the way. Can't just tell someone buy paint anf thats all.It is not just the paint but everything else that will get you. And if your doing a color change your going to want to R&I the glass in the car, new mouldings. Your going to pull the motor then you have other misc cost like engine fulids. It is called the nickel and dime effect. It is a large undertaking to do it right. Good luck if you move forward with it. If you do it please post some pics I enjoy watching someones vision come to fact.

 

I wasnt going to get into it but I agree with Ryan ---Iv done it ---Restoration is what it is ----Christ its a job if u want it perfect , thats the reason I dont do it anymore, and tell u what , if u get all ur paint, thinner, Primer-More thinner,Hardener, sealer,Clear Coat for 600.00 ur lucky or getting crap. Plus, paper---jeez , that adds up,before and after u paint.
Hoods off,--- as is doors,Hatch, engine if u do it right,Bumpers,maybe Glass,Handles,
Makes me want to puke remembering what I charged for that, only to have the idiot point out a piece of lint on the corner of the door

 

My bad. The way I took your post was that if he brought it to a shop the supplies alone would cost $2000.

 

This is a good topic... I'm quoted $1500 to paint my body kit (whole front bumper, side skirts and rear bumper skirt). The main concern that I have is the color matching since my 03 Z is never garaged and is probably a little faded. So by adding 1k I can guarantee that it'll be matched and I get fresh new paint.. Hmm...

 

gal PPG DBC base coat - $220
gal PPG DCB100 clear - $100
gal Omni SV primer - $60
5 gal laqcuer thinner - $35
1.5 gal PPG reducer - $70

That brings the total to $485 plus tape paper and supplies. You're getting rooked if you think that's cheap. I do body work for a living. And as I said before I'm talking supplies only.

 

I hope they do an immaculate job for that price. I would probably charge around 2/3 that price for just the kit.