Can I install an OEM rear wing with just 3m tape??help!
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Can I install an OEM rear wing with just 3m tape??help!
The fact spoiler seems so light and the right fit on the rear lid....i'm not crazzzy about drilling holes in it..i've seen other wings for teh 350Z that are "flush " with the rear deak just install with 3M tape.. also i do not have the template for this wing as i bought it second hand! Thus more emphasis on using 3M!
any suggestions would be greatly appreaciated!!
PS..I would take off the two stud bolts from the spoiler..
any suggestions would be greatly appreaciated!!
PS..I would take off the two stud bolts from the spoiler..
Last edited by misel00; 07-03-2003 at 03:22 PM.
#2
I would give it a shot, just make sure the tape is fresh and wipe off the paint with a little alcohol than dry. good double-sided tape is a very strong it's not like the rear wing is huge and aerodynamically it should push it down.
If by chance you do see it start to lift which I doubt you can always do something else .
If by chance you do see it start to lift which I doubt you can always do something else .
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i'm worried about it flying off that's why i'm asking the forum...
but then i saw two spoilers made for teh 350 Z by a compnay that mounts with 3M double stick Auto tape..
one was an OEM stlye but the other was larger a Balinari Replica that mounted flush with 3M tape...
does people really think that the 2.5 pound Oem with 3M tape all around and a full day to adhere to the rear lid would fly off???
Thanks Forum!!!!!
but then i saw two spoilers made for teh 350 Z by a compnay that mounts with 3M double stick Auto tape..
one was an OEM stlye but the other was larger a Balinari Replica that mounted flush with 3M tape...
does people really think that the 2.5 pound Oem with 3M tape all around and a full day to adhere to the rear lid would fly off???
Thanks Forum!!!!!
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bolt it on. It's easy. I thought about the same thing when I mounted an OEM wing to my Z.
I don't think the studs are designed to be removed, so if you do remove them and later decide that you want to bolt it down, you won't be able to.
But getting back to my recommendation, it 'fits' better with it bolted down. Even though I drilled my car and test fit prior to pulling the backing tape off, it really pulled it down to the hatch lid nicely when I 'snugged it up'. Drilling is easy. Remove the hatch lining, remove the counterweight. Look for holes in the hatch frame and drilll as exactly to the center as you can get. Start small (1/16" ) drilling up through the hatch. Test alignment and increase size to 1/4". At 1/4", the wing should fit perfectly if your allignment is right. If not, increase to 3/8" to give a little wiggle / allignment room. I used RTV silicone around studs to insure no rust or leaks. Wipe off paint with alcohol to insure good bond.
I don't think the studs are designed to be removed, so if you do remove them and later decide that you want to bolt it down, you won't be able to.
But getting back to my recommendation, it 'fits' better with it bolted down. Even though I drilled my car and test fit prior to pulling the backing tape off, it really pulled it down to the hatch lid nicely when I 'snugged it up'. Drilling is easy. Remove the hatch lining, remove the counterweight. Look for holes in the hatch frame and drilll as exactly to the center as you can get. Start small (1/16" ) drilling up through the hatch. Test alignment and increase size to 1/4". At 1/4", the wing should fit perfectly if your allignment is right. If not, increase to 3/8" to give a little wiggle / allignment room. I used RTV silicone around studs to insure no rust or leaks. Wipe off paint with alcohol to insure good bond.
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misel00...
Just use the tape, prep the surface as DMONTE said, dry off the surface with a hair dryer and everything will be fine.
JMS in TX
JMS in TX
Last edited by Silver Bullit II; 07-03-2003 at 10:04 PM.
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Re: misel00...
Originally posted by Silver Bullit II
Just use the tape, prep the surface as DMONTE said, dry off the surface with a hair dryer and everything will be fine.
JMS in TX
Just use the tape, prep the surface as DMONTE said, dry off the surface with a hair dryer and everything will be fine.
JMS in TX
Exactly right Tape is MORE than adequate. Just make sure it is 3M-4229-P. It is the tape the automakers trust to hang very heavy slabs of cladding on those Suburbans and Tahoes. It is DESIGNED for and RATED for exterior use. It will not come off. Unaffected by water, salts temperature, etc. TIP: Install it at 75 to 85 degrees. Make sure the car and the spoiler and the tape are the same temp.
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Originally posted by ares
it creates downforce, at the expense of drag.
it creates downforce, at the expense of drag.
Without the spoiler, the air tends to follow the contour of the back of the car (this is the Coanda Effect) where it intersects the air coming from under the car with the result of turbulance - therefore drag.
If we really wanted to decrease rear-end drag we'd have a spoiler like this wrap around the sides as well (see Shelby Cobra Daytona coupe) or shape the back of the car like a cone. While I like the back of the Shelby, It's not right for a modern car, and a cone???? Nah....
Last edited by roark; 07-08-2003 at 10:12 PM.
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do you folks have any recommendations on how to align it right if you purchased it second hand? I am in the same situation as misel00 as well! The alignment is my biggest concern.
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yes it's ok...i've worked on many cars in my days and many wings out there including factory spoilers that are just mounted with 3m automotive tape. Make sure you clean everything off good with alcohol
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