Varis Arising 1 Sides
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 1,371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey those are mine!
thanks so much for fixing them up for me Erwin, they are honestly 95% as good as new. To be honest the other one that wasn't busted up is like maybe 65% as good as new and I'd ask you to work your magic on it except that I know how much work these were and what a pain the the butt they were to fix.
thanks so much for fixing them up for me Erwin, they are honestly 95% as good as new. To be honest the other one that wasn't busted up is like maybe 65% as good as new and I'd ask you to work your magic on it except that I know how much work these were and what a pain the the butt they were to fix.
Trending Topics
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Waipahu HI; Phoenix AZ
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The green areas is where the cracks were. It was pretty bad, but the structure was still pretty good. The red areas are where the CF is still present, but resin had to be filled over it because the area was crushed inward.
I "V" cut the green areas (slant cut the cracks) with a dremel so that the resin would hang on it and to remove loose debris.
Use epoxy resin used for marine (boat) use. Do an "epoxy resin vs. polyester resin (the stuff you can get a Wal-Mart... under the Bondo brand) and you can find out the positives of using epoxy resin. You'll need the resin, as well as a hardener. Get a gel viscosity hardener so that the resin is less runny... you want a gel consistency.
If you need structural integrity, buy fiberglass cloth and soak it in the resin and put it behind the crack, then fill in the crack. In this case, I could not put cloth behind the crack cause the skirts are shaped that they are hollow. I just used enough epoxy to make sure it is tough enough to take the bumps and vibrations of road use.
Or you can use something called "solarez." Get the epoxy version. It's used to fill in dings for surboards, and dries very quickly. It is easier to use. It comes in a tube, and you just apply, set it in the sun to harden, and in 30min, you can shape.
I used epoxy solarez for the cracks cause it does not run, and used 2-part marine epoxy resin to fill in the red parts in the picture that was "pushed in."
The marine resin comes out more clear, although Solarez is clear if it's a thin layer.
After you fill, sand to shape, then use fine grit sandpaper to smooth, then buff with a buffer to shine.
In this case, buffing it out shows the CF damage. The side skirt will be painted... at least part of it.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Waipahu HI; Phoenix AZ
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I know
But you know what... the Chargespeed Bottomline sides look pretty similar, and are only $700 for the CF version.
God, now I want the Chargespeed sides, with the Varis Arising 1 rears (vortex generators).
I wanted to start with the engine dress-up!
But you know what... the Chargespeed Bottomline sides look pretty similar, and are only $700 for the CF version.
God, now I want the Chargespeed sides, with the Varis Arising 1 rears (vortex generators).
I wanted to start with the engine dress-up!